Trailers leaf spring corrosion

[Rum_Pirate]

I have an aluminium Continential trailer Model A2260B for my boat.

The trailers is used in a salt water environment.

I usually wash down the trailer with fresh water after a 'dip' in the sea.

The trailer is stored in the open and subjected to rain showers.

I am now on my second set of leafs in 5 years.

What is the best way to slow down (I don't think it can be stopped) the corrosion of the metal leaf springs?

Various suggestions have been made including:
Daub the spring leafs with grease. This may attract and hold salt crystals, grit and sand.
Liberally brush the spring leafs with old diesel oil. Not environmentally friendly. It to may attract and hold salt crystals, grit and sand.
Wrap the leaf springs with sacking soaked in oil and secure with wire. This may attract and hold salt crystals, grit and sand.

What is your best suggestion (magic solution please) ?

 

[sarabande]

D, I definitely agree that you should not apply any grease or oil for the reasons you have stated.

When I ran Landrovers in the UAE on the subkha (salt flats) Landrover had a factory modification which wrapped the ellipticals in canvas gaiters, similar to these

http://wefco-gaiters.com/

If you can't do that locally , can you get the leaves galvanised ? Zinc sort of 'flows' when it is scratched, and that might slow down th ecorrosion. Also give some thoughts to either

1 putting anodes on the chassis (probably magnesium ones might be 'softest')
2 earthing the chassis with a length of chain so that when stationary any stray galvanic currents run to earth ?

Keep watering with fresh after use.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

D, I definitely agree that you should not apply any grease or oil for the reasons you have stated.

When I ran Landrovers in the UAE on the subkha (salt flats) Landrover had a factory modification which wrapped the ellipticals in canvas gaiters, similar to these

http://wefco-gaiters.com/

If you can't do that locally , can you get the leaves galvanised ? Zinc sort of 'flows' when it is scratched, and that might slow down th ecorrosion. Also give some thoughts to either

1 putting anodes on the chassis (probably magnesium ones might be 'softest')
2 earthing the chassis with a length of chain so that when stationary any stray galvanic currents run to earth ?

Keep watering with fresh after use.

My series IIA also had gaiters, a sorry state they were in when I got it, so removed them. They would keep dirt and dust out, but might help retain salt etc?

Was anything put inside the 'gaiters' on your land rovers?

 

[DinghyMan]

We used to wrap leaf springs in Desno tape: http://www.denso.net/densotape/index.htm

Fairly sticky petrol based stuff designed for ofshore use and protecting buried pipes

 

[William_H]

Now my initial reaction to Sarabnde was to disagree on all counts. I may be wrong but I can't see salt crystals or dirt as being a problem. I would cover every thing with grease and or diesel. No I can't see anodes or earthing doing anything.
My own trailer now has leaf springs 36 years old and no problems and yes I do apply old engine oil and grease every where I can. good luck olewill

 

[Deleted member 36384]

There are environmentally acceptable corrosion inhibiting sprays and greases in addition to the standard stock of stuff, although I would not be worried about using a non environmentally acceptable item in small quantities I would rinse in fresh water after use then apply a spray on product. I have experience of these, which I would consider using on leaf springs: -

WD-40 300038 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor Spray (this is not the standard WD40 water displacement spray)
Gun Oil Aerosol Spray with VP90 Corrosion Inhibitor (I have used VP90 on my drilling rigs when laying up, it works)
ACF-50 make a spray and range of inhibitors. (I protect my motorbikes with this stuff and it does not attract dirt and salt)
3M Scotch Anti Corrosion Spray (This creates and impact resistant coating and may not be suitable for leaf springs, but OK on the outer surfaces, maybe)

Wrapping or shielding leaf springs is old and inefficient technology, as is using old engine oil brushed liberally, ditto diesel - technology has evolved. After using the trailer in salt water, wash off, rinse in fresh water and apply a corrosion inhibitor. I think Gun Oils, is the most penetrating and effective, ACF-50 will likely remain between washes.

Denso tape is a great product for protecting components in static conditions but it can work loose in a dynamic environment as it does not have any tenacity.

 

[lw395]

These are multi-leaf springs, not a single 'leaf' I assume?
So there is inevitably rubbing between leaves.
What do the failed parts look like?
Is the rusting of the top leaf where the second leaf rubs?

Do you tow the trailer many miles? or just up the beach?

You could look for different springs, with less, thicker leaves.
I would be wary of covering the springs as you won't see the problem developing.

One product I might suggest is motorcycle chain wax. It goes on as a penetrating foam, and dries to a greasy wax. Obviously you want it between the leaves not all over the place.

 

[sarabande]

the 'single leaf" suggestion sounds an avenue worth following. Ford Transits used to have a single one.

AFAIR the UAE Air Force Landrovers used to have grease, then a layer of hessian tape wrapped round and round, then the canvas gaiter which had something like jubilee clips where the springs were held by the chassis. I guess that big cable ties might be the answer now. It was a real pain taking the gaiters off and cleaning up the leaves.

Yes, if there is a consistent point of failure, that would be useful to know. Perhaps in the curl where the leaf joins the spring hanger (a guess).

As a leaf-sprung Landrover owner for over forty years, I would never ever put grease between the leaves and then drive on the open road. It would just turn into grinding paste.

 

[reeac]

When I restored my 1958 MGA back in 1982 I wire brushed the rear leaf springs, brushed on gear oil and then wrapped them in cloth until I installed them some months later. I still have the car and have never touched the springs since. Admittedly I've only done 30,000 miles in 33 years but then how many miles does your boat trailer do? Of course that car never goes in salt water but the springs must suffer the grinding paste effect if it exists.

 

[lw395]

Some people speak of putting ptfe or other plastic between spring leaves.

 

[Rum_Pirate]

When I restored my 1958 MGA back in 1982 I wire brushed the rear leaf springs, brushed on gear oil and then wrapped them in cloth until I installed them some months later. I still have the car and have never touched the springs since. Admittedly I've only done 30,000 miles in 33 years but then how many miles does your boat trailer do? Of course that car never goes in salt water but the springs must suffer the grinding paste effect if it exists.

About 4 miles (absolute maximum) a year and two dunks into salt water,

 

[toad]

I have always greased all my trailers and multi leaf springs on my vans with a heavy sticky grease. The failure point is usually a leaf snapping as it cant flex with the other leafs. Jack the trailer up so the springs are hanging and work the grease into the gaps. The theory that grit will grind through a spring is possible but will take a hell of a long time. This is assuming that it is a multi leaf spring, if its not rub it down and paint it.

 

[rotrax]

Leaf springs corrode if not kept oily, but seawater will undoubtedly make it worse.
BUT- in my experience, unless the leaves are broken or the end bushes, fastenings or clips damaged, they remain servicable even when rusty. They are usually quite substantial sections of spring steel held together by special bolts or rivets and sometimes kept in alignment with clips.
Also, AFAIK trailers in this country are not subject to any form of technical inspection a la MOT.

So, if the rust was cosmetic, no big deal. If the rust was structural and weakened them and so affected their load carrying capacity, they need replacing.

I have often dismantled, cleaned up and rebuilt leaf springs, sometimes making one good one from three poor ones.

You could not always find parts for some of the old tat I used to keep on the road......................

 

[waynes world]

About 4 miles (absolute maximum) a year and two dunks into salt water,

Thats not much at all, why is it that you want to replace the leaf packs?

Only asking as i have had many an off roader 4x4, many that have been over 15 years old and the leafs have been rusty but still did the job. good rub down with a wire brush just for the asthetics and painted. if i strip them i add a little copper grease to the ends of the leafs..

 

[Seajet]

Top Tip;

find a source of new leaf springs, bushes bolts etc right now; might be worth getting a spare set in now on standby to prevent too much embuggerance in a while, depending on budget and storage ' for will come in handy ' items...

 

[John the kiwi]

In NZ pretty much every second person has a trailer boat.
Usually a 16 - 20ft fizz-boat(runabout with 90- 200 Hp motor used for fishing and water skiing), but in my case a 26 ft Trailer yacht.
We all expect to fully submerge our trailers every weekend and not have to stress about water intrusion into bearings and so on.
I have just had my trailer checked for Road worthy certification and the bearings i installed prior to last sailing season are perfect in spite of being fully immersed 30 or 40 times and having no attention paid to them.

Specialist boat trailers parts are readily available and cheap.
These include hub stub and bearing kits that have marinised seals, stainless steel disc brakes and leaf springs as per link.
Seems that there might be a market opportunity for someone to import these into the UK?

http://shop.goughtwl.co.nz/single-multi-leaf-springs-galvanised-1377.html

Good luck