Trailer suspension problem

Slinky Spring

Slinky Spring

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My boat trailer needs attention. It is used as a yard trailer and moves about 400 metres twice a year with the boat on. It consists of an old plant trailer (single axle) which has had a caravan axle added to increase the capacity. It has been used as a road trailer in the recent past but I wouldnt trust it.
The current problem is that the original wheels are rusting through and the inner tubes are going to start breaking through the side walls of the wheel.
I therefore need to replace the wheels but as these are likely to be from an Austin A60 it is unlikely that I will be able to get hold of any. Searches have failed to find a current wheel with the same pcd (5.5 in 5 stud with a large central hole).
First option: friend suggested I could have plates made with corresponding holes which would then be welded onto a suitable wheel and the holes drilled through the wheel.
Second option: The suspension units appear to have bolt in stub axles that could be replaced with new ones (bought or made) that would enable the use of hubs off a recently scrapped vehicle.
Any thoughts on either of these options and any suggestions as to what vehicle might be suitable for the parts for option 2
 
if the suspension units are the rubber doughnut type, has the rubber insert gone hard over the years ? (mine did, but the dinghy was stored on the trailer over winter - not good practice /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

If that's so, then try Indespension for new units. They have various sizes and standard wheels.

http://www.indespension.co.uk/b2c/app/I00650?ZSUBCO=033&Z1MACO=181&slnk=1


Excellent very clear website, and backed up with a very good tech support staff who really can advise you with full product knowledge.
 
I second Indespension.

They use to specialise in providing bits for home trailer construction using wheels and hubs etc from old cars but I think changes in the law have put an end to DIY trailers.

They used to publish a book of plans for DIY trailer building

They do still seem to offer a wide range of replacement wheels so it may well be worth looking at what they have to offer in that respect, contacting them for advice even.
 
5.5 inch by 5 is a common size. Before trying indispension (who make the average chandler look like a charity shopp) try places like Towsure on the web, they supply wheels that size. Also try your local breakers tard. All you need is the PCD and number of studs, rim diameter and width, though at the end of the day if you don't go on the roads all you are really worried about is the rolling diameter not matching wheels etc on the axles.

http://www.towsure.com/

http://www.caravan-wheels.co.uk/
 
If you say that 5.5in 5 stud is common then I may have the wrong size. Could be the size of the central hole that was the problem. I will check it later.
 
Try the scrapyards. A60 wheels could be J4 van or Sherpa van maybe. There's a scrapyard at Endmoor near kendal and one in Ulverston (but his stock is a bit modern.) as well as any near to you.

These vehicles have 5 stud 5.5" PCD wheels

Ford: Bronco (66-on), F 1/2 ton F-100, 150 (54-96), 1/2 Ton E-100, 150 Van (70-96)

Jeep: All Jeep, CJ (46-85)

Kia: Sorento (03-on), Sportage (94-02)

Suzuki: Samurai (86-93), Sidekick (86-97), X-90 (96-98), XL-7 (01-on), Vitara (98-on), Grand Vitara (99-on)

and I'm sure Vauxhall Frontera do as well

Check here http://www.bikerlifestyle.co.uk/tech/pcd/pcd.html (139.7mm ;Frontera says 139mm, but it could be a misprint, in fact Grand Vitara and Frontera wheels are interchangeable))

Failing that measure the stub axle diameters where the two bearings fit. You may be able to fit newer and more available hubs/wheels that will fit on your stub axles, again sourced from scrapyards.
 
5.5inch PCD X 5 stud is not common at all. I suspect you are correct that the wheels are off an Austin A60.

This is the only 5 stud size Towsure have:-

http://www.towsure.com/product/2948-175R14_Wheel_and_Tyre_Silver

This is Peak Trailers range

http://www.secureonlineshopping.biz/andysmee/images/wtadata.pdf

As a Mancunian I fully understand what sort of cost-effective solution you are looking for!!

I would look at Land Rover and Transit wheel sizes as they are 5 stud to see if they are anything like. Otherwise your mates suggestion of a welding job might be best. I would doubt if your stubs will come off easily.
 
Nope. Look at the list I posted. Landrover are not the right pcd and Transits are 160mm.


The Indespension route is a non-starter really as the trailer has two different axle types fitted. It would be a re-engineering job really.

Scrub Fronteras. turns out they are 6 stud as are the L200 etc.

Grand Vitara definitely 5 stud though
 
It might be easier to get the whole front axle from an old type transit, again you're going to need to talk to breakers.
There are sometimes good bits on ebay, and they're never around here!
 
Ooh, very difficult.
Rover SD1 5 x 127mm pcd 57.0mm bore. Bit small in the middle.
Jeep Cherokee, Grand Cherokee 99> 5 x 127mm pcd , 71.5mm bore That would fit. But post 99 Jeep wheels may be a bit pricey.
Another alternative would be to take hubs and drums (if fitted, not really needed for a yard trailer) to an engineer and have them drilled for a different stud pattern to suit easier-to-source wheels. They'll be able to get some studs to suit, which just bash in from the back. The only problem would be the 3" bore, but as it's only for yard use the engineer may cut the extra from the wheel centre to allow it to fit.

The next option is to get some square steel tube to make a couple of axles and weld some axle stubs into the ends. If you get stubs to suit an easily available car hub then you could source hubs and wheels from a breakers.
It's still faintly possible that the existing stubs would take some bearings that would have an ID to suit the stub and an OD to suit some easily available hubs.

Sent you a PM as well.
 
I found those but they only seem to give about 3mm shift. It may allow a wheel with 130mm pcd but not a 120mm pcd (however as its only for moving slowly, off road that could work, in which case some Landrover wheels would suit).
http://www.whitea4.com/audi/variablebolt.html

Of course, given that it's a slow ride, off-road, re-drilling the wheels and using flat washers would keep the wheels pressed against the drums. It's only twice a year. In fact cutting the old wheel centres out and welding onto new wheels would do the trick as long as concentricity was maintained.
 
[ QUOTE ]
The next option is to get some square steel tube to make a couple of axles and weld some axle stubs into the ends. If you get stubs to suit an easily available car hub then you could source hubs and wheels from a breakers.
It's still faintly possible that the existing stubs would take some bearings that would have an ID to suit the stub and an OD to suit some easily available hubs

[/ QUOTE ]
This was my thought as the stubs appear to be bolted in. What would be a suitable vehicle to plunder for the parts. Heavy enough for the job but freely available and therefore cheap.
 
I've got a trailer with Land Rover hubs welded onto box section axles, no shortage of them about.....

The original wheels sound a bit like old caravan wheels, they had a large centre hole.
 
You might consider that as it is to be a yard only jinker then smaller wheels will give you a lower boat to work on and more safety in high winds.

I second the suggestion that you may get a hub and bearings to suit the stub axle that is fitted. If not bolt another stub axle onto the existing axle. Typically 4 bolts onto a flat plate welded to the end of the main axle. The stub axles come from the front of older rear wheel drive cars.

good luck olewill
 
The rear axles off front drive vans are a ready source of strong trailer units. Wide enough and certaily tough enough. Renault Trafic or Master, Iveco. My local yard has piles. I was going to make a twin axle road trailer for my new build, untill I found out the (local) rules limit home mades to 750kg. At two tonnes mine was a none starter.
A
 
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