trailer repair, just weld in a new bit ?

simonfraser

simonfraser

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this is v similar to mine:
the arrow is pointing to the lower bar where it has shown rust for some time, just under an upright connection to the top bar
this has been treated over the years but is getting out of hand
get some one to just weld in a new section ?
its a yard trailer, not going on the road ever
tnx

trailer lower bar crack 2021.jpg
 
Yes you can, although: the zinc coating, galvanising, gives off poisonous fumes when welded, so grind off all the surrounding galvanising, and do it outdoors, in a breeze, standing upwind. Any welder who has ever had a lungful of the zinc gases will probably turn down the job. It makes you feel very ill!
 
Without seeing the actual damge it's hard to say. But if it is just used as a yard trailer I would be tempted to plate over and around it.
 
I'm pretty sure any welder would know that. You only breathe in vapourised galvanising once. Then you avoid it like the plague.
 
If the box section is corroded cut out the affected bit and replace with new; it's not worth faffing about plating box section, if one side has rotted through the rest won't be far behind, except maybe the top face. Does it go in the sea? If one bit's going there will be others.
 
Box sections are the worst for boat trailers. They get water inside then rust from inside out. My trailer box draw bar failed after 12months from new because of rust from inside. Rest of the trailer was made from open folded sheet. Much better as you can see both sides. A later repair did have box section fitted. I immediately drilled holes in the top of the box and injected large amounts of old oil. Very messy and seems to help. I suggest this for OP along with more doubling plates. ol'will
 
When i was an apprentice it was written in our award that the company had to supply a pint of milk on request if we were welding galvanised steel. Naturally the lads took full advantage!
Zinc fume fever is unpleasant but antidoted by Riboflavin found in milk and beer......
Best to grind to expose bare steel of course, but difficult to clean up enough to totally avoid zinc fumes.
Of course these days welders have gone soft and have forced ventilation welding helmets for such situations.
 
The OP says it is just a yard trailer, so one does not have to be quite so "perfect".
Get a lump of 3"or 4" 1/4" plate about 3 ft long from a scrap dealer & bolt it along the side with some 8mm bolts; . May have to use longer bolts & possibly alter the side plate where that clamp comes . If it will not fit behind the clamp then just extend the bolts of the clamp. Give the iron a coat of paint first . If it deteriorates further, then it is quite easy to run a weld along the plate at a later date to give better support. Angle iron would be better but you probably not get it past the clamp. I have welded along galvanised metal several times & provided a few mm is ground off where the weld comes it is no big deal to keep to one side whilst welding.
 
Last edited:
Daydream believer said:
I have welded along galvanised metal several times & provided a few mm is ground off where the weld comes it is no big deal to keep to one side whilst welding.
Click to expand...
I agree. Just grind of the galvanising for an inch or so either side of the weld, wear a full face welding mask and, if the chassis is internally galvanised and you are not cutting it right through, hold your breath between passes.

Richard
 
John the kiwi said:
Zinc fume fever is unpleasant but antidoted by Riboflavin found in milk and beer......
Best to grind to expose bare steel of course, but difficult to clean up enough to totally avoid zinc fumes.
Click to expand...

So you create your zinc fume with the grinder instead of the welder?
 
Like daydream Believer says, once you are aware of the fume problem you can avoid being above the arc. Same applies to grinding.
Plating is far better than cutting in a new section. That will have butt welds, which won't be as effective as seam welds along the edges of plate or angle. You can also stagger the joins and overlaps. Drill some decent holes in the bottom of the box section to allow it to drain and dry out.
 
Buy a cheapie stick welder from a diy store, watch a couple of how to weld videos on YouTube. The trailer is perfect for teaching yourself how to weld on. It would probably cost very little difference from getting in a professional, with the added advantage of being able to repair the next rust spot (which you’re bound to find).
 
Done lots of this and not had zinc flu yet :)
This might be just local, but tap with a pointed object around a bit to see if it is more general. Cut out the affected tube somewhat beyond the obvious problem and put in a new bit. But weld, then fish plate the joins. As in, weld lozenge shaped plates over the sides of the join. Grind off (flap discs work too) the zinc along your expected weld runs and do it with a light breeze behind you.
Second an Inverter welder, but pay a bit more if you want it to last. Personally I use Mig, but a decent one is loads more than a stick.


The China bit comes up frequently, but every welder has some, or all of its bit made there. Just depends on what you are prepared to pay for quality control. I-Phone anybody?
 
One thing, standards for road use and yard trailers are a 'bit' different.. aesthetics apart, just welding a chunk of plate or angle will keep it in service. Strong enough, not elegant or something that would impress the fuzz or inspectors..
 
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