Towing a tender backwards

Storyline said:
Have an Avon Rover 2.8 and have given up towing her due to a couple of instances when she became airborne in strong winds. They have a wooden transom so does anyone think I would put excess strain on this if I drilled a couple of holes in it and then made a line off from them to the aft cleats and hoist her up so only the bow is in the water as mentioned above ?
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Shouldn't expect that to cause any trouble, it's built to take an outboard, what you're suggestion would be less strain than that. I tend to tow my rubber duck from the pushpit to get it higher out of the water & stop exhaust water pumping into it.
 
Searush said:
Shouldn't expect that to cause any trouble, it's built to take an outboard, what you're suggestion would be less strain than that. I tend to tow my rubber duck from the pushpit to get it higher out of the water & stop exhaust water pumping into it.
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I think I may be about to start a revolution in dealing with tenders

like sheep rolling across cattle grids... this could spread across the world through the power or morphic resonance

Dylan
 
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i just fitted a D ring to the bow of my Achilles dinghy so that I can lift it onto my Davits - easy enough job to do. D ring patch was £7 and the special 2 pack glue was approx £9.

As someone mentioned earlier - clean the area well with acetone (nail varnish remover) and apply the glue to patch and target area and then put as much weight onto the area whilst it cures - I cut a circular wooden block with a slot in it for the D ring and then sat a 10kg kettle weight on it. Leave for 48 hours to cure and it's solid as a rock.
 
raven said:
i just fitted a D ring to the bow of my Achilles dinghy so that I can lift it onto my Davits - easy enough job to do. D ring patch was £7 and the special 2 pack glue was approx £9.

As someone mentioned earlier - clean the area well with acetone (nail varnish remover) and apply the glue to patch and target area and then put as much weight onto the area whilst it cures - I cut a circular wooden block with a slot in it for the D ring and then sat a 10kg kettle weight on it. Leave for 48 hours to cure and it's solid as a rock.
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I'd agree; proper prep and 2 part glue is the way, I've reattached Avon rowlocks and D-rings that had separated with success.
 
Did you lose the original fittings? Surprised to see the job add up to so much- £60 is more than my Avon cost!

Btw, if frequently inflating, you can do a lot worse than spend a fiver on a basic electric pump.
 
ghostlymoron said:
What's the best way to remove the remnants of the original fittings?
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I dont think you can

With Hypalon dinghies you can soften the adhesive by heating with a hot air gun and remove old fittings but with PVC ITYWF the solvent in the adhesive attacks the substrate and forms a solvent welded joint.
 
First thing I would do is ask the tender how it feels about being towed backwards. Politeness costs nothing after all.

Tim
 
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