Topsides Painting

[cindersailor]

I would be grateful for the experience of anyone who has painted topsides using International perfection (2-pot polyuethane). I have heard various horror stories about using this paint so I thought I would try to gather as much information as possible before I open the tins.

I am planning to change colour from navy blue to white on my Cinder 22 topsides. Since the previous paint was not 2-pot (softened by No.9 thinners) I have removed all traces back to the gellcoat with a random orbit sander initially with 120 grit, followed by 240. For anyone considering doing this it is not as tough as you might think, I think the secret is a powerful sander, mine is 420W (£25 from B&Q), and regular changes of abrasive sheets (I got through about 30). I managed to get all the paint off in 4 x 3 hour sessions. The surface appears to be sound. After a thorough wash down I will move into an artificially lit shed for the painting. Temperatures are unlikely to be much above 10 degrees until March by which time I want to be on the water. I will set up a bright halogen security type light to provide enough oblique light. I am planning on three coats applied with Jenny roller/Jenny brush 1st of undercoat, 2nd of undercoat/topcoat 50/50 and 3rd of top coat.

Questions: Do I need a final rubdown with fine wet/dry? The surface after 240 grit seems very good with no obvious scratches. Will 3 coats be enough to fully obliterate the navy gellcoat? Is one of top coat enought to get a good gloss? Any advise on the Jennyroller/brush technique?

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[steve28]

The paint is very good, goes on well dries nice and smooth.
the only prblem i had was some release agent/silicone left on which makes patches on the finish.

very durable


steve

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[snowleopard]

i had problems with 709 because i let dew form on it the night after painting. it looked dry that evening and was fine the following day but after a few weeks it began to chalk and by the end of the season looked as though it was 20 years old.

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[kireonriley]

i painted my topside it was white and i painted it white big but i was advised and did use five coats rubbig down between each coat i to painted in feb and march and always put a coat on first thing in the morning to give the short dayus and low temp. there best chance that was 4 years ago still good as new Kieron

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[Mudplugger]

I suspect that 2pot has a minimum working temp. above 10 deg. C. Have used it in the past with super results. However, after about 4 years started getting staining along the waterline, to cure that was advised that Toplac (1pot) was good. Brilliant paint, less sensitive, easier to apply, particularly with jennybrushes, and a finish that was even better and No staining......Tony W.

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[john_morris_uk]

I have used it in the past, and with a little care excellent results were produced. Method that I was taught by the yard where my boat was, was to work in pairs. One rolling on a thin layer with a foam roller and the other 'tipping the paint off' with a very good quality brush to ensure that it flows to an even and gloss coat. As I said - with a little practice excellent results and very very durable. There have been a few magazine articles outlining the method.

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[ccscott49]

I painted my boat with perfection 709, excellent paint, but the temps were too high for it in Spain, so it dryed too fast, with no shine, it will need flatting and polishing. I would use two coats of undercoat, then flat and two top coats.

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[StephenSails]

Its good stuff, as with all painting jobs the results will be better if the preparation is good and complete. I would be very careful doing paint jobs at this time of year becuase of the temperature. I have had excellent results recently with Epifanes Mono-Urethane and will be sticking to this on bare GRP paint jobs from now on.



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[oldsaltoz]

G'day Philip,

You will know how many primer / undercoats are needed when you look at the finish after each coat, any contaminants will show after the first coat; pinholes indicate silicon or other non paintable contaminant.

Any minor chips not filled will stand out like the proverbial..... but easy to fill after a light sand.

If you mix too much, you can put it in the freezer overnight, just remember to put the container in an air tight bag so you don't stink the freezer out.

The roll on and tip off with a clean brush works well, just roll out an area about 500 mm square at a time and overlap by 10 to 20 mm with the next roll, keep a rag and some thinner handy and wipe the brush after each use, but don't leave it wet with thinner, just clean and damp.

The long chain polymers will self level and fill all minor scratches, with no problems at all.

This paint, like all two pots is very susceptible to both temperature and moisture, also too much thinner will give a dull finish; read the can, don't paint if humidity is above 74% or likely to rise to anything near that. Temperature is only relative to the surface, I have used 1500 watt lamps to provide good light and heat.

Humidity is high first thing in the morning, so don't be in a hurry to get it on, it dries fast, but all painting should stop soon after lunch to allow drying prior to the cooling off and possibility of reaching dew point. the late moisture will the paint to bloom, this looks like patches without gloss.

As far as rubbing down is concerned, again read the can, taking the gloss is all that is required for most paints so it's not a huge job.

You have done the hard work of removing the old paint, so it should be a doddle from here on. Just take your time, check the mixing, easy on the thinner, keep an aye on the weather, humidity and temperature and you should end up with a beautiful finish.

Good luck withe project, and let us all know how it turned out and what if any problems presented themselves.

Andavagoodweekend......

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