Topsides brush painting

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I want to do the topsides this year and would like to use the roller and brush technique.I've seen it on other boats and the finish can be quite good.What make of paint would the board suggest?I was thinking of Awlgrip wich is a bit on the expensive side so what about cheaper alternatives?
 
A one part yacht enamel - toplac by international is the one I have used - is a lot easier to get a good finish with than a two part like awlgrip. In my experience, it is durable, given the right substrate (undercoat/primer/ boat structure) and if it is possible to lay it off with a butterfly's wing (eg ever so gentle, nice soft well run in brush) it can be hard to distinguish from a good spray finish.
Do thin if the paint is drying too quickly. Keep that wet edge.

One person rollering on and one person laying off with a brush is a good way to go.

Or go for the two part. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Respected yachties of my acquaintance swear by B&Q's finest!
 
See if you can get hold of a Jenny brush, i.e. sponge on a stick. Not as unsophisticated as it sounds and no brush marks. With care you can re-use several times.
 
Did mine 2 yrs ago with International 2 Pack. I was well satisfied, although never as perfect as spraying.
As 90% of job is preparation I can't see the point of using less than the best & longest lasting paint ---ie. a 2 pack.
wwwyachtpaint.com has excellent demo video.
Did mine outside, as most probably do, so weather obviously important---avoid sunshine!
It is definitely a 2 person job.SWMBO rollered on, me right behind with brush.It isn't the easiest paint to apply, but you soon get used to it.Don't put it on too heavy and finish off with
VERTICAL brush strokes as per Internat. demo.[spent my life 'til then finishing horisontally].
Best of luck.
 
Do a search on YBW. There are loads of good threads.

Try This One

Do not "tip off" the paint as recommended. It always leaves brush strokes. Just run the exhausted roller very lightly down the paint film, before reloading it for the next bit.
 
There have been recommends in the past to add Owatrol oil to the paint rather than thin it. Some people seem to find this makes an enormous difference, others dont like it. No personal experience.
 
I have personal experience and would second use of Owatrol conditioner.
When roll 'n tipping on my own I found it difficult to maintain a wet edge without a dollop of owatrol in the Blakes gloss... the brush was dragging rather than smoothing over the orange peel left by the roller and this was in the open in April, hardly high Summer.
The left-over was used on galvanised fittings which had lost some zinc as Owatrol was originally marketted as an anti-rust primer.
 
But never allow dew to form on fresh 2-pack paint as it will rapidly chalk afterwards. It must be kept bone dry for at least 48 hours after painting. I would never use it outdoors after one bad experience.
 
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