Top tip - heatshrink over a splice

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When splicing a rope to chain one is left with the rope ends tied off and typically protruding outwith the splice; this can make passage through a small space (through the deck to chain locker perhaps) problematic. I used to tape the rope ends down to the chain but it was never satisfactory. My neighbour then cunningly suggested using heatshrink - and it works perfectly. The splice now glides through all restrictive passages like a glass of chablis down the throat.

You heard it here first.....(or maybe not, maybe you've all been doing this for years!)

Rob
 
When splicing a rope to chain one is left with the rope ends tied off and typically protruding outwith the splice; this can make passage through a small space (through the deck to chain locker perhaps) problematic. I used to tape the rope ends down to the chain but it was never satisfactory. My neighbour then cunningly suggested using heatshrink - and it works perfectly. The splice now glides through all restrictive passages like a glass of chablis down the throat.

You heard it here first.....(or maybe not, maybe you've all been doing this for years!)

Rob

Never had a problem with the ends protruding. Pull them about 1/4 inch, seal with hot knife tight to the rope and the ends slip neatly back inside. And I'd rather be able to see the splice. Sorry!
 
Where can you get large heat shrink material that will fit over ropes?
I always cut the ends tight to the splice and then use a hot air gun to shrink/melt the ends to seal and tidy them, works every time with no ends poking out.
 
You heard it here first.....(or maybe not, maybe you've all been doing this for years!)

Yep :). A couple of years, anyway. Our anchor blocks the second bow roller, so securing to a mooring involves rigging a bridle between the two bow cleats. Rather than using any old mooring warp, I thought I'd make up a dedicated strop, with a chain middle to avoid chafing on buoys that just provide a rusty metal ring to secure to. I wanted the splices from rope to chain to be as smooth and tight as possible for passing through rings and shackles, so I put heatshrink over them.

I'd first seen something like this technique on Stavros, where the dedicated safety lines for clipping onto are made from colourful braid secured with climbers' figure-8 knots with heatshrink applied over the top. This distinguishes them from the "original" parts of the rig in synthetic hemp or served wire, secured with lashings.

And I'd rather be able to see the splice. Sorry!

Use transparent heatshrink :). That's what both I and Stavros do.

Where can you get large heat shrink material that will fit over ropes?

eBay.

Pete
 
You wouldn't have this problem if you back spliced onto the rope itself yes/no?

True, but there is then a much thicker rope (and less flexible) to persuade through a small hole. And I must admit I prefer the look of a long chain splice; it looks stronger though IIRC a recent test proved the opposite.
 
And I must admit I prefer the look of a long chain splice; it looks stronger though IIRC a recent test proved the opposite.

By the way . . . .the windless mfg's generally HATE the "long chain" splice. It has a history of jamming in the windlesses - often a chain link will turn sideways in the splice if it is not all completely evenly tensioned. They pretty much all recommend a back or eye splice.

Obviously this is not an issue if you don't have a windless and are hauling by hand. But I will also comment that this splice also brings up more mud than a neat back or eye splice.
 
If you use shrink on end caps it's even nicer, heatshrink is great for all sorts of things, I keep it in my stock at up to 4" un shrunk dia but I have to be careful not to pick it up instead of my black solvent weld sanitary waste pipe.
 
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