Toilets, limescale and Electric descalers...........

Have you tried putting some dilute hydrochloric acid down the loo? Keeps the pipework completely free of scale.

We've been doing this for a couple of years - no probs with the pipework, neoprene diaphragms in the pump or anywhere else in the system. (Lavac, with a Henderson pump and Blakes seacocks).

You can buy it in any Portuguese supermarket or builder's merchant as Agua Fuerte, or similar. In the UK it is often sold as brick cleaner or as Spirits of Salt.

I wouldn't let it get anywhere near aluminium, tho'.

Also great for cleaning bronze propellers.
 
Last edited:
Whadaya reckon folks?
Click to expand...
I'd be very surprised if it did work but things similar to this have been around for ages.

would love to see a scientific explanation of how it is supposed to work

Let us know if it works !
 
Its all about ions

VicS said:
I'd be very surprised if it did work but things similar to this have been around for ages.

would love to see a scientific explanation of how it is supposed to work

Let us know if it works !
Click to expand...

These things are very similar to the magnetic water treatment devices also a substitue for a water softner, the idea is that the molecules of the impuities in the water are energised and the charged such that they dont stick to one another so the limescale wont stick to the pipework and is carried way. The problem is the effect decays quite rapidly so the water reverts to its "agressive" state in minutes. So they are no good if the water lays in the system, like a "traditional" UK hot water cylinder. They were installed with some success on combi boiler systems where the device was placed as close to the inlet as possible so the effect was present as the water passed through the heat exchanger thus reducing the build up of scale.
 
My outlet,, from bog to sea is about 1m. I was planning to wrap one coil around the pipe as it exits the loo and another just above the seacock in the hope that the water in the system would be permanently energised.

I had something similar that I fitted when I installed my combi boiler at home but I was never sure if it was wroking or not so to be sure fitted a chemical softener as well on the rising main.

It may be that the rate of calsification in a marine toilet would be too great for it to keep up.

As the unit mentioned only draws 130ma it might be worth a try.
 
Sy-Revolution said:
Yes, Ive tried that, it's difficult to get right down below w/l though. Plus I was hoping not to put chemicals down the loo and into the sea.

Also I noticed it was melting the inside of the plastic Y valve!

Stings like f88k too!
Click to expand...

Nothing nasty goes into the sea if the acid is fully reacted with the limescale. The reaction products will be calcium chloride, CO2 and water.
 
How does one know if there has been a complete reaction. How can I be sure that I've added the correct amount of acid and how do I know when the reaction is complete. Can I be sure that the acid is not dissolving other parts as well as the Y valve?

Funny thing is I did put a good dose of the stuff down there for about 30 minutes just a couple of weeks ago and still it got blocked. All the lime was bunched up close to the seacock as it fell away from the pipe walls. So it seems that the acid couldn't work it's way down there. It was a very nasty job to clear as it wasnt all limescale. I say no more........

If there's a non chemical alternative I'd like to try it out. In the meantime I guess I'll have to get into the habit of clearing the pipe on a regular basis.

C.
 
Discipline required!

You seem to have a case of lazy pumping!

You need to completely clear the urine/sea water from the system when you pump out. This might take 20 pump cycles (bit less if you only have a metre which sounds as if you have no anti-siphon). This is the deadly combination that furs up.

We have a Dometic vacuflush system with fresh water flush. Liveaboard for 3 years and totally maintenance free....
 
Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid is the only way, I reckon. Take care it is very nasty stuff. Nigel Calder tells you how to do it (in his book) if you cannot work it out. You basically put acid in and work it through the system stage by stage - very, very slowly adding more as it goes through. It should then be inert on discharge and accumulated flakes should be gone.
Whats your Y valve made of? Acid does not seem to attack plastic.
Once you have a clear system get in the habit of serious flushing and, from time to time, (weekly?) put some vinegar in, followed later by cooking oil to lubricate seals.
 
Ours is an electric loo so pumping acid through slowly isn't easy. I'm thinking that the no flushing at night is probably the biggest cause. I'd love to be able to convert to fresh water flush but out water tank is a tiny 200l. We use a watermaker to fill up daily.

I suppose I could take the pipe off at loo end and blow till it's clear of water and shut the seacock at the same time, then fill up with the hydrochloric. But Yuk!

C.
 
Sy-Revolution said:
How does one know if there has been a complete reaction. How can I be sure that I've added the correct amount of acid and how do I know when the reaction is complete. Can I be sure that the acid is not dissolving other parts as well as the Y valve?
Click to expand...

Pour the acid in and wait. You will hear it bubbling, gradually diminishing, then stop. Usually takes about 5 minutes. The acid is then consumed and neutralised. I find it best to pump through slowly and gradually, hopefully reacting as it goes, but of course this doesn't work on the downward leg of the loop.

There must be something unusual about your Y-valve. Hydrochloric does not react with plastics generally, nor the seals within them. Are you sure this is the cause of the problem? Metal seacocks and skin fittings will not be attacked, particularly with such brief exposure times.
 
Hi Viv,
The stuff definately reacted with my Y valve, the plasic went all sticky and ended up melted on my finger tips. A similar thing happened when I used the Muriatic acid when cleaning the boat the other week (see earlier thread) and I notced it softening the blades on my rutland 913.

So be carefull people!

In fact my Y valve was this type:

830105.JPG


It had melted so much that there was a real chance that the moving parts inside would have fused. It's been replaced now. No worries as it was a useless piece of junk, the handle broke off after a few months due to the calcium build up sticking the valve solid. They're pretty flimsy.

C.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top