Toilet Problems

D

dignity

Well-Known Member
Joined
28 Nov 2002
Messages
190
Location
Yorkshire, England
Visit site
I have a manual sea-toilet which you can empty the bowl by pumping, but when you switch it to flush it doesn't flush, checked sea-cock all seems fine, would it be worth trying to get a repair kit or just buy a new one? Never heard of the make either it's a (Raske + V/D Meyde RM69) made in Holland, can anyone help?

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
RM69 toilets are common - their website is <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.rm69.com>http://www.rm69.com</A> and you should be able to get spares for it - but not sure who the agents in UK are.
Your local chandlery may be able to help.


<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... :-) /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 
If you can change the toilet, don't waste your money. RM69 are dreadful. I am now on my fourth or fifth in about 7 years, two have been changed under guarantee and the current one, only a few months old, leaked from day one. If you can fit any other type do so, it will undoubtedly be better. My choice in the cheaper ones would be a Par but I can't fit anything other than the RM69.

Did I see your boat at Hellevoetsluis last year?

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
No must be a different DIGNITY, that'll teach me to choose a common name! Thanks for v advice on RM69, I'll measure up see what else will fit, although fitting the same toilet would make it a very easy job!

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
I must admit I didn't realise it would need priming, only trouble is I've no way of closing discharge off, has it goes straight into a holding tank! Any ideas? Don't want to start stripping it down if there's no need!

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
It's a positive displacement pump so it will prime itself, if the valves and piston seal are working and if it is less than 32 feet above the water line! Sometimes the flap valve sticks or gets a piece of weed or something in it, would be worth a look.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Your problem is probably caused by a faulty inlet bypass valve not closing and the pump being unable to draw water from the inlet side.

Just check that the small inlet pipe is, in fact open, and if it is get a pump replacement valve kit from E C Smith & Sons Ltd, Kingsway Ind Est. Luton LU1 1LP
tel 01582 729721.

If not contact the manufacturers in Edam, Raske & v/d Meyde, tel 0031 299371100 and talk to Paul.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Contrary to your experience, I've had nothing but satisfaction from my RM69 over the last 12 years. (and I live on the boat for months at a time)
Furthermore I've found their after-sales service extremely good.

Perhaps it would be interesting to obtain others' experiences.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Maybe our mistake was to buy the smart updated pump assembly (Sealock) As inherited the RM69 was old but still worked. We changed it to a Sealock type and that was probably the beginning of our problems. The plastic of this unit is very flimsy, there have been technical problems that caused brittleness and was the subject of one of our warranty exchanges. Putting the valves at the top of the cylinder sounds like a good idea but in practice has been spoiled by the use of small sections and questionable design.

The handle has been redesigned three times in five years! Our first one broke half way between Boulogne and Cherbourg, for which I had to cobble up a temporary nut arrangement. When I repaired it with Milliput I reversed the handle, making the pump angle much more fair. A bought replacement had undergone the same modification. Last week Jill saw the latest version in which the T-handle has been replaced by a round button.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
I am trying to find the reference that I saw to this problem. I think the priming problem arises when the valve is dry. The solution recommended was while pumping, to use your thumb to close the hole where the flushing water enters the bowl.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
That solution suggests that the discharge valve is not closing properly. It should do, whether wet or dry, as it has a weight built into it specifically for this purpose. Either there is something in there that is holding it open or the rubber has split or deformed. Only answer is to open it up and have a look. It's very easy, so its definitely preferable to sticking your thumb in the bog every time you use it!.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
I must say I've been boating for a lot of years, but never had v pleasure of dismantling a loo, when I start dismantling am I going to end up awash with waste, bearing in mind I have no way of isolating the toilet from the holding tank! I do apologise for dragging this subject up!

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Which is back to the handle as on the original RM69.

I suspect the difference has a lot to do with "value-engineering", the original, which I have, has a porcelain bowl and plastic other parts.

I've noted a weakness in the top-of-pump valve-seat (I have now shrunk a ss ring on that).
However the valve gear, which I fitted with the new saddle holding tank is far less well-engineered than the original, and I have taken steps to re-inforce what I considered weak points.

Al in all it appears that our original poster would be well advised to stick with his current unit.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Pump out the holding tank before you start dismantling.

Raske & V der Meyde, make an holding tank diverter valve, which allows you to pump straight out, pump into the holding tank or pump out the holding tank.
This means the holding tank is easily isolated.

Could I suggest you investigate this - because it has to be retro-compatible the holding bolts need (IMHO) some re-inforcement, but it definitely works and quite simply.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top