Tohatsu 3.5 2-stroke, where to buy new carb?

KompetentKrew, I'm grateful for the link to the parts catalogue. It's only now, I realise there are two models - I must find which I have.

I found a replacement fuel tap online without needing a number, but went through the catalogue for other parts.

I assume it is wise to replace the filter too, but I can't find a one for the 3.5. Is it possible that these small two-strokes don't have one?

I'm only ordering the tap because mine is in poor condition and difficult to operate - it still works, but very stiffly.

My instinct is not to disassemble the carb when it has given no trouble, but that's only fear of the unknown. Are there parts in the carb (or elsewhere, like the shear-pin) that I can be confident of eventually needing, and which it would be smart to order in advance?
 
dancrane said:
It's only now, I realise there are two models - I must find which I have.

… I assume it is wise to replace the filter too, but I can't find a one for the 3.5. Is it possible that these small two-strokes don't have one?
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The model number should be next to the serial number on a metal plate somewhere:

WUabFfx.jpg

I have the email address of the parts manager at Tohatsu UK if you get stuck - he has been very helpful on occasion, but I'd prefer not to bother him if you can find the model number yourself.

If you still can't find a fuel filter on the parts diagrams when you've identified the model I'll let you have his details.
 
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That's kind of you. Looking through the parts list, many components seem to be shared by the 'A' and 'B' versions...

...it's just curious that none of the parts for either are listed by the name 'filter'. Would it be called something else?

I know below is only one of many pages, but wouldn't the filter be somewhere in that section?

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AFAIK fuel filters weren’t fitted from the factory (there’s just a plastic mesh inside the fuel cock instead). In-line filters seem to have since been added as part of the service kit and I presume a lot were fitted as a logical mod during servicing.

There is a genuine tohatsu part for this: Genuine Tohatsu In-Line Outboard Fuel Filter 369-02230-0 | eBay
I think it is shared between all the small tohatsus. You also need a couple of hose clips (or cable ties). You cut the hose half way along the hose and tuck the filter in somewhere neat out of the way of the fuel cock etc.
 
That makes sense, thanks DK. I had seen references to Tohatsu fuel filters for engines of 4hp and above, but it didn't occur to me they might fit the smaller engine's fuel line. I'll think it over...if there isn't an old, clogged filter in need of replacement, I'm not too fussed.

Does your engine have rubber knobs on the choke and throttle levers? I guess I can make some out of Sugru...

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...although the mounting I'm planning for the engine will be three feet behind the cockpit so I need to engineer some very basic levers and cables which will probably attach more easily to the metal stumps.

The Cambridge Outboards site says delivery of the fuel cock will take two weeks...they're "on holiday"? Is that code for lockdown-shutdown? I kind of imagined a company big enough to keep running while somebody takes time off. :) No hurry anyway.
 
dancrane said:
That makes sense, thanks DK. I had seen references to Tohatsu fuel filters for engines of 4hp and above, but it didn't occur to me they might fit the smaller engine's fuel line. I'll think it over...if there isn't an old, clogged filter in need of replacement, I'm not too fussed.

Does your engine have rubber knobs on the choke and throttle levers? I guess I can make some out of Sugru...

50108907402_da3a65a1cc_z.jpg


...although the mounting I'm planning for the engine will be three feet behind the cockpit so I need to engineer some very basic levers and cables which will probably attach more easily to the metal stumps.

The Cambridge Outboards site says delivery of the fuel cock will take two weeks...they're "on holiday"? Is that code for lockdown-shutdown? I kind of imagined a company big enough to keep running while somebody takes time off. :) No hurry anyway.
Click to expand...

jEvv9N2.png

MCes7rN.png

 
Brilliant! In spite of the intended clarity, I hadn't recognised how those exploded diagrams fit together.

Thanks. (y)
 
Very glad I asked...I might never have looked closely enough to identify which model and year I have.

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Judging by the parts catalogue and list of models, mine must have been one of Tohatsu's last of this type - by 2006, only the four-stroke is listed. I don't understand that because I thought for commercial and charitable purposes, two-strokes are available even now?
 
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dancrane said:
Judging by the parts catalogue and list of models, mine must have been one of Tohatsu's last of this type - by 2006, only the four-stroke is listed. I don't understand that because I thought for commercial and charitable purposes, two-strokes are available even now?
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They are, but I don't believe they've updated the models at all.

My 9.8 is 20 years old and, having had a bit of bovver with it last year, I spoke to Mainbrace in Alderney with a view to replacing it with a brand new one.

The current model is the exact same as my 2000-year one, except they've started painting them a different shade of blue.

I assume 2-strokes are prohibited in USA the same as they are in the EU, as the bloke at Mainbrace suggested the worldwide market for 2-strokes is a very small one.
 
That's rather reassuring.
If they haven't changed much, the old ones aren't obsolete and it should be possible to maintain yours and mine, indefinitely.
Or build a completely new one, from spares? :unsure: ?
 
I have the same engine. The little knobs and tiny screws are easily lost, but are non-essential. The other thing to do is to check that the four big (I think M6) PZ screws that hold the sides of the casings on are removable. The S/S screws tend to sieze into the alloy engine casting threads after a while. Make a point of taking them out every year or so and reinserting with some grease or similar on the threads. On mine it took a lot of work with a hammer and impact driver to get them out after several years untouched. You can't use heat - the usual fix for seized screws - as you'd damage the plastic casing.

They are good engines, and really light compared to current 4-strokes. I bought one of the last sold here in 2006, ran it a few hours to run it in then kept it unused in the cellar till last year until the older Mercury 3.3 version I had finally died 2 years ago. That engine was mechanically identical, but had different plastic casing and logos. There's also I think another Mariner badged version.
 
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