Tired old diesel - Help!

Jim@sea said:
You need to approach the problem in a different way. Forget initially thinking about the pump. You need to think about the engine and without sufficient information you are working blind. First thing to do is have the compressions checked and without this information you dont know whats what. When these engines were first made perhaps in the early 50's It was common practice for people to take their car to a garage that was a "Hepolite Piston Ring" specialist (In the 60's I was one) and piston rings were not made to the high standard as today and were designed to wear instead of wearing the cylinder bores, anyway if all your compressions are good I would then turn to the pump. I would approach firm of Diesel Engineers who specialise in pumps. I would buy a re-conditioned one and have it fitted then send your old one off for re-conditioning, and when you get it back fit it on the other engine, so you end up with a spare.
I would also (and nobody seems to do it thesedays) clean up the inside of your engine by, warm the engine/s up and drain, fill with flushing oil, run at tickover for half an hour, drain and refill with flushing oil again, for another half hour, then fill with normal oil and filter change. You will be surprised how much gunge is still coming out in the second flush. You may also benifit from having the injectors checked.
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Why would you do all of this ?

The engines start and run fine, the boat reaches a speed of 10 knots, which is a very good speed for this hull. Without more than twice the horsepower he currently has, the boat will not plane, therefore will never see more than 10 knots.
 
omega2 said:
just had a look at this, if you fit the power units to make it "go" you will need a filling station every 5 miles, as you are only able to carry 30 gallons.
http://www.freemancruisers.com/boats/model/freeman30/
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Thats duff info. There are 2 tanks, one on each side, each one is 30 gallons.

I am happy with the engines and the boat in general. I was concerned that some adverts are claiming speeds of 20 knots plus ...... I guess they are not telling the whole truth??????

I will look after the old ladies, quality oil and frequent changes appear to be the order of the day. Just as I would expect to do with any ageing machinery. They don't use or loose much oil. Over the last season I think I put about a pint in each which I don't consider too bad all things considered.

A bit of advice I would like to tap into is how to adjust the tickover. I can't find any info on the injector pumps anywhere. I'm guessing there should be a screw on the front end of the pump, but nothing jumps out as obvious.... any suggestions????
Thanks again.
 
Base idle speed is set up during pump calibration. Sometimes there is a screw and locknut fitted to the power lever on the pump.

I never saw your type of setup before and breaking the seals and adjusting anything on a road going unit, unless you were a pump jockey was a big no no, entailing a swift kick in the pants by the workshop foreman.

So other than a physical, adjustable screw stop on the power lever, can't help. Sorry.
 
Freeman 32

Alpha.
We had an early soft top 32 with 2 x Thornycroft 108hp. Certainly looks the same injection pump, but not my sphere of expertise.
As for speed;
With clean (newly de-osmosised) bottom, full fuel and little water and 2 adults and 2 kids and stores for a 2 week sea trip, we cruised at 14 kts with a max of 16 kts. And very comfortably too.
When 1st bought I had both injection pumps serviced and calibrated (1, the little camshaft fell in 2 pieces on dis-assembly) and all the injectors out, checked and replaced as necessary. No smoke and ran like trains.
Don't underestimate the additional weight if your boat has not been treated for osmosis.
I have to say I am not aware that the Free's ever got much more than 10 kts when yours was new, but I was only a nipper then.
 
miket said:
Alpha.
I have to say I am not aware that the Free's ever got much more than 10 kts when yours was new, but I was only a nipper then.
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Don't you just hate it when someone knows your boat better than you!!!!

Do you remember anything else ?? Particulally, when did she gain a hard top? What colour was the carpet? When was the hot water and pressurised system fitted?
 
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PUMP

If the pump is a minimec or cav, then there is a maximum and minimum screw on the base of the lever that your throttle cable connects to. Not sure re tick over revs but would suggest 650 to start with, and if able to start and engage gear when warm without stalling maybe that will be enough. Sorry this drawing does not help much but assist in identifying yours.
injectionpump-1.jpg
 
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Don't Don't Don't

Use "quality oil"

Go to the motor factors and say "I have an old diesel engine". That'll get you the right stuff, cheap mineral oil.

Stick in "quality" new fangled oil with "adatives" and the sluge will be busted, driven into the system and block up the pipes. ----- sieze in 20 minutes --- happened to me in an old volvo (OK car) thinking the best was best!

Ian
 
omega2 said:
Not sure re tick over revs but would suggest 650 to start with, and if able to start and engage gear
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Parsons sugest a minimum of 700 rpm for the gear box, so I will go with that. Cheers for the diagram, it's not too far from that.


iangrant -- plain old mineral all the way - fear not I can't afford anything fancy!!!
 
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