The squeezebox type riveter is a bit of a handful up the mast, we use a heavy duty riveter that has two long handles like a bolt cutter, very powerful when using larger rivets.
A length of webbing around you and the mast will also make the job faster and safer, we use an old seat belt I got from a car wreckers, cheap and fully adjustable.
Anything heavy taken aloft Must have a line attached to it, and to you, this will at the very least save deck damage or loss over the side.
If the rvet is pulling up as far as the gun allows and still has not "popped" all you need to do is remove the gun and refit to the rivet nail in its uncompreesed state and continue pulling the nail. Eventually it will pull.
...is important to ensure that the rivet doesn't deform too much and you end up with an "Outie" navel before the shank breaks off.
The smaller size commonly available LOOKS as if it needs a 3.5mm hole whereas they were made for 1/8 inch which requires a 3.2mm drill. I find 3.2 drills almost impossible to get in the UK. Funny but the half dozen I recently acquired were from Profi in Corfu.
Get the drill size right and you'll be able to fit the plastic stoppers which in my experience come with a pack of rivets.
3.2 mm drills are used to make 4 mm nuts (not exactly nuts but, I don't know the word, female recipient of a screw /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif)
Nowhere better to get rid of crap than on the net.
The best place I've found for tools is Sears in the states where you can still buy proper kit rather than asian rubbish that breaks when you put a bit of effort onto it. Also in the US you can get a range of drill lengths which enable you to keep the drill machine away from the job and therefore minimise damage caused by the chuck as well as get the hole drilled at the correct angle.
I still have my dad's 1937 Britool hexagon drive socket set; perfect, complete and it it's original green toolbox - man enough for ANYONE'S keel bolts!.
3.2mm is the same as 1/8 of an inch which was a very popular drill size in the UK pre metrication and still is in the USA. It was used in vehicle manufacture and boat building because the most popular self tapping screws were of this size. Because the "Tucker Company" who pioneered "Pop" rivets being American, the most popular size of rivet still needs a 1/8" hole to work properly.
I will be passing through E Venezelos on Saturday on my way to Kerkira.
I think we are both right. It's true that 3.2mm is almost 1/8" (3.175mm), hence the confusion. Anyway, thanks for the info.
On Saturday, if all goes well, I will be in Mani (SE of Peloponese). Next time (try to have some time to spend in Athens) I hope we 'll have a couple of drinks.
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I was wondering if you could say how effective is the Lazy Tongue riveter. Also, how does one know what size rivet to use? Cheers
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Replace like for like with manufacturers choice is the best option.
If you don't have this option, such as a new fit, I tend to look around to see what similar items have used, if not, then I tend to treat it like nuts and bolts. If you would be happy to use 4x M4 to fix cheek blocks etc. to the mast, then I use 4mm rivets.
For my radar arch, they came with it 4.8mm and the x-trees 6.4mm, at 6.4 they start getting very difficult to 'pop' but are without doubt very strong!
It is like asking which size screws to use, you get a feel for what is required, though in most cases as an amateur I over-engineer everything /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif