tips on pop riveting please

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yerffoeg

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I need to do some work on my mast - put on a radar reflector and new steaming light. I intend to pop rivet these but I am new to rivetting!

I have practised using some waste sheet metal but could not get the further side of the rivet to deform - maybe the rivet was too long for the job?

I understand the need to use Monel rivets, Duralac paste and a decent sized gun.

Any tips please on how to do the job properly (without asking the boatyard to do it)!
 
Make sure the pieces you're riveting are tight or clamped, always better that way than having the rivet pull the pieces together.
 
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I have practised using some waste sheet metal but could not get the further side of the rivet to deform - maybe the rivet was too long for the job?


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What do you mean? Did the stem cut-off? if not then the gun is not good. Mind you that Monel rivets are far harder than aluminium ones.

The minimum rivet length is the width of all the components you want to rivet together + rivet's diametre (eg, 4mm mast + 4mm reflector's flange + 4.8mm rivet's diam = 13mm). There is no maximum although the longer it is the more will be left in the inside of the mast (chaffing halyards and cables).

Practice makes perfect...
 
Correct length rivet and hole diameter are critical to a good join, the rivet supplier should be able to give you a data sheet like this one, data sheet that will give the the info you need.

Martin
 
Found this in my odds and sods folder :
What rivet body length is correct for your application?
Follow this thumb rule: Rivet Body Length = Material Thickness + Rivet Body Diameter.

Hole size

Hole size can be important in blind riveting. Too small a hole will, of course, make rivet insertion difficult. Too large a hole will reduce the shear and tensile strengths and it may even cause bulging or separation of the members by allowing the rivet to expand between them instead of on the blind side. Best practice is to follow the hole size recommendations provided. Also, avoid burrs in and around the holes.Use sharp drill bits.
 
Don't forget the little plastic thingys to place in the holes. Don't know how important they are, but it is better than leaving the metal pin in there (which usually is not monel - therefore a dis-similar metal)
 
Many thanks for the replies, esp the datasheet.
In my failed practice attempt the pin broke off but the rivet body did not flatten out on the far side, although it did grip the hole. I think the problem was using too long a rivet
 
Yup, that's what I was trying to say.

Thanks for that.

I actually punched the shanks out once (when they didn't go of their own accord) because I didn't want any electrolysis.
 
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you can get plastic bungs normally white, that you press in to the rivet centre. to go in where the shank has broken off

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Thanks, I think I 've never seen something like it, but I will now look for them. I assume it's just a 'looks' improvement.
 
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The reverse side will not flatten out. The pin of course should break out at the point where it has flattened as much as it is going to.


[/ QUOTE ] It will hold though. It's just not a nice job...
 
It might seem obvious but it wasn't to me. I could not get the nose of the rivet gun hard against the face of the metal because of an indentation with the result that the rivet was loose. I was advised to bridge the gap and place pressure on the rivet by placing a small nut between the rivet and the gun. I would also confirm by experience, not to use rivets that are too long.
Also I found that my hand strength was insufficient for the use of a small pop riveter with monal rivets, and I ended up in buying a Lazy Tongue riveter from Screwfix.
 
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tried to get some from our rigger recently and he said they are hard to get hold off.

I think they finish the job off nicely

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I bought some monel rivets from mailspeed marine and the plastic things were included in the packs.
 
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