Tips needed for Gibbs winch removal

Neil

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I can't get the drum off my Gibbs #3 winch. According to perceived wisdom, removal of the central screw and washer is all that is required. While the winch can rotate stiffly, there is no vertical movement after the screw is removed. Is there something else I need to know? I'm guessing the shaft sleeve is too tight, but if it rotates, it should lift, no?

Any other tips?
 
I can't get the drum off my Gibbs #3 winch. According to perceived wisdom, removal of the central screw and washer is all that is required. While the winch can rotate stiffly, there is no vertical movement after the screw is removed. Is there something else I need to know? I'm guessing the shaft sleeve is too tight, but if it rotates, it should lift, no?

Any other tips?

You just have to keep turning and lifting up at the same time. Gentle warming with a hot air gun may help soften the grease inside.
 
I'm going to have a good tug at it tomorrow, though I'm not confident, put a fair bit of beef into it already. Might end up taking my MAPP gas torch to it and I'll try not to set the boat on fire
 
Be careful about using too much heat as the plastic sleeves can be damaged and replacements are obtainable. If you're just softening grease, a hot air gun or hair dryer is safer.
If you do damage the plastic bits, new ones can be machined on a lathe. Lewmar pawls sometimes fit Gibb winches also springs.
 
I used a mallet to shift stuck winch barrels. Tap it (firmly!) upwards all the way around time & time again as you turn & pull upwards. Eventually they did come loose. A little diesel dripped onto the stuck faces may act as an easing oil.
 
Did it! :)

I'm not sure if it was the diesel left in the 'cup' overnight, the short plank of wood lashed to the top of the drum to be able to get my back into it, or the good old 'universal spanner', the MAPP gas torch, heating to hot-to-the-touch temperature. Interestingly, in contrast to the pictures of a dismantled Gibb on the web, there seems to be no shaft sleeve - the drum just goes on the plain shaft (no grease at all and very cruddy!). Not that there is any wear, but should there be in the future, I can't shim the sleeve with tape to tighten it up. Mind you, it's been good since 1980.........

I think my difficulty was a 'collar' of crud that, while allowing the drum to rotate (just!), prevented it from being lifted.
 
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I'm not sure if it was the diesel left in the 'cup' overnight, the short plank of wood lashed to the top of the drum to be able to get my back into it, or the good old 'universal spanner', the MAPP gas torch, heating to hot-to-the-touch temperature. Interestingly, in contrast to the pictures of a dismantled Gibb on the web, there seems to be no shaft sleeve - the drum just goes on the plain shaft (no grease at all and very cruddy!). Not that there is any wear, but should there be in the future, I can't shim the sleeve with tape to tighten it up. Mind you, it's been good since 1980.........

My 1976 Gibbs were unsleeved too. Once you get them cleaned up (Scotchbrite is your friend) and lightly greased, they work a treat.
 
My 1976 Gibbs were unsleeved too. Once you get them cleaned up (Scotchbrite is your friend) and lightly greased, they work a treat.
My four (approx 1970) Gibbs likewise - drums turning on bare shafts - two bottom-handled for sheets, two top-handled for halyards. The sheet winches get a smear of winch grease on shaft and pawls each winter. I doubt you'll ever need to shim them. On one of my sheet winches I've had to polish the shaft down with emery cloth to make it a little looser (I think the drum might have been replaced a while ago). My problem was broken springs, but there is a brilliant springmaker who made me spares for all three patterns I needed - Airedale Springs http://www.airedalesprings.co.uk. No connection, just a very happy customer.
 
My four (approx 1970) Gibbs likewise - drums turning on bare shafts - two bottom-handled for sheets, two top-handled for halyards. The sheet winches get a smear of winch grease on shaft and pawls each winter. I doubt you'll ever need to shim them. On one of my sheet winches I've had to polish the shaft down with emery cloth to make it a little looser (I think the drum might have been replaced a while ago). My problem was broken springs, but there is a brilliant springmaker who made me spares for all three patterns I needed - Airedale Springs http://www.airedalesprings.co.uk. No connection, just a very happy customer.
Best to use 3 in 1 (toolbox in a can) on the pawls as grease can cause them to stick.
 
My four (approx 1970) Gibbs likewise - drums turning on bare shafts - two bottom-handled for sheets, two top-handled for halyards. The sheet winches get a smear of winch grease on shaft and pawls each winter. I doubt you'll ever need to shim them. On one of my sheet winches I've had to polish the shaft down with emery cloth to make it a little looser (I think the drum might have been replaced a while ago). My problem was broken springs, but there is a brilliant springmaker who made me spares for all three patterns I needed - Airedale Springs http://www.airedalesprings.co.uk. No connection, just a very happy customer.

That's good to know - did you just send him the two halves of a broken spring?
 
Best to use 3 in 1 (toolbox in a can) on the pawls as grease can cause them to stick.
It doesn't. I've been using the winches for 14 years without any such problems. I use a light smear of winch grease on the pawls. It's not precision engineering, so there's a big gap between the pawl and the pin it turns on. The grease also reduces the chances of the pawl going over the side when reassembling or dismantling the winch.

That's good to know - did you just send him the two halves of a broken spring?
I sent them intact springs, albeit somewhat tatty. I also sent photos so they could see how the springs fitted on the pawls. They would probably have managed with a broken spring, but better to work from an intact one. I needed to send three - pawl springs are the same on both types of winch, but the ratchet pawl springs are different on sheet and halyard winches. My three little plastic bags are probably about 50 years' supply of springs, but there's no point buying just one or two when the spring maker has set his jig for your springs.
 
I've successfully serviced the two sheet winches, which are now spinning and clicking freely. One of the plastic rings is broken, and I understand spares are unavailable. The halyard winch has a lot of play in it, why I don't know, because it hardly needs the winch to get the sail up and tight. If it's like the two sheet winches, in not having a shaft sleeve, I'm not sure how to deal with that. I suppose I could have the shaft turned down and the drum opened out on a lathe and a sleeve fitted......or maybe just buy a new winch.....

I still have a pair of new Lewmar sheet winches that I bought in haste.......... Still, I have them for when I need them! :)
 
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