Tiller Pilot fittings

Neddie_Seagoon

Well-Known Member
Joined
2 Apr 2006
Messages
3,611
Location
IoM
www.yotblog.com
My boat has mounting point & tiller fitting for an older Autohelm (ST1000 I suspect) . Does anyone know if the fittings for Autohelm and Simrad are compatible - trying to decide whether to buy ST2000+ or Simrad TP22 and having to install new mountings would be decisive.

Thanks,

Steve
 
[ QUOTE ]
I would have thought the fittings a lesser concern?

[/ QUOTE ]

Don't want the mess of removing old fittings and installing new ones, or the hassle if it can be avoided.

Obviously from the replies I can use either /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Both do NMEA183 which is what my GPS outputs, so OK there. Old electrical socket would not be compatible with either unit so have to do that either way. Anyone got views on which I should go for? Boat is 28' and 2600 kilograms, so with crew and supplies is probably just too much for a ST1000.

Thanks again,

Steve
 
I am also about to buy a tiller pilot and have been reading the manuals for both the ST2000 and the TP22. I have a much small boat than craggy_steve, hoping to get a bigger boat soon so have discounted the TP10 and ST1000. I also wont the extra features of the TP22. I was under the impression that both came with all basic mounting and electrical fittings, extension would be the only extras, is this so?
Can anyone tell me the length of the stroke as from the dimensions given for mounting it would appear that when using the auto tack my boat would make a very long slow turn.
 
Re' slow turn, remember the length of travel of the arm is not at the end of the tiller but only 18" from the rudder stock.
I have a TP10. It has plenty of power for a 26 footer but If I was to buy another it would definitely be one with a faster lock to lock time.
 
I have done a similar swap which worked OK. I did find that the tiller cup jumped off in lumpy weather, but unscrewing the black end fitting of the Simrad, so it lines up better, had cured this. It is now locked in its new position by a turn of self amalgamating tape. The Simrad pin is just a plain shaft which I assume is meant to be bonded in position, a screwed shaft with a nut would be better. Anyhow, like you, I prefer to reuse old fittings when I can.
 
I dont think smallish boats (I include my own 31ft) have a problem with the ST 1000 as long as the boat's rig and sails are set up correctly. It's weather helm that I find causes these tillers pilots to over work. My ST1000 (old now) does a good job butI keep it simple and I do not set it up to communicate with my GPS. I prefer to just use it to keep be on a set heading, altering it manually when I so wish. It is certainly powerful enough for my 4 ton boat.
 
The mounting cups and tiller pins are compatible.
Installation dimensions are almost identical
Page 35 of Raymarine

SELECT TP22 English
18 years down the line but I feel the need to correct this statement as it made me buy the wrong thing & I'm guessing people are still installing Simrad & Raymarine kit. The Simrad tiller pin has a "shoulder" which locks nicely to the Simrad socket - I can turn the thing upside-down & it stays in place, which I like. The Autohelm/Raymarine has "sloping shoulders" & the pin pops out unless held in place. A bit of elastic or amalgamating tape may solve this but I prefer the click-fit of the Simrad original. However the brass socket at the other end does seem to be identical on both. It is entirely possible that the Raymarine pin is also gripped better by the Simrad sharp-shouldered socket but I don't have one to test.
 

Attachments

  • Raymarine.jpg
    Raymarine.jpg
    25.9 KB · Views: 2
  • Simrad.jpg
    Simrad.jpg
    200.8 KB · Views: 2
18 years down the line but I feel the need to correct this statement as it made me buy the wrong thing & I'm guessing people are still installing Simrad & Raymarine kit. The Simrad tiller pin has a "shoulder" which locks nicely to the Simrad socket - I can turn the thing upside-down & it stays in place, which I like. The Autohelm/Raymarine has "sloping shoulders" & the pin pops out unless held in place. A bit of elastic or amalgamating tape may solve this but I prefer the click-fit of the Simrad original. However the brass socket at the other end does seem to be identical on both. It is entirely possible that the Raymarine pin is also gripped better by the Simrad sharp-shouldered socket but I don't have one to test.

The Raymarine hasn't changed from the original Autohelm days ... and is designed to be easily 'kicked' off in times of need. But therein lies a tale !! Too often moving about - an errant ropes end or wayward foot has flipped the Raymarine (Autohelm) of its pin.

My tiller pin is now loose and needs to be refitted ... last sail end of last year - the arm had to be lashed to the tiller to stop it jumping off the loose pin ..

It will be re-bedded into epoxy as I cannot drill out - fit a wood plug and then drill again - the tiller is hollow with telescopic internal section ....
 
My Simrad tiller pin socket clips quite strongly to the old autohelm tiller pin. It needs a good yank to get it to disengage. That can be a good thing...or a bad thing depending on circumstances.
Mine was the same. I thought it didn’t until the day I really pressed it home. You can always pull the other end off if really stuck.
 
Top