Tightening rigging screws

alldownwind

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Just reading the old Kemp 'Hints and Advice' mast booklet prior to re-stepping our mast. Not had this one down before, it's a double-spreader job with caps, intermediates, and two lower shrouds each side.
What has thrown me a bit is that the book says "do not use a marlin spike or screwdriver to turn the rigging screw body. This will cause cracks which can lead to failure of the rigging screw".
How else do you do it then? I don't have the screws in front of me but from memory I don't think they have a square section anywhere to put a spanner on. I can see what the book means about leverage possbily causing cracks, but can't see what else to use.
My rigging screws are a normal design with a wide slot all the way down but for a small bridge at the centre. Split pins are used in the wire terminals to jam in the slot and stop the wire turning.
 
My rigging has 'enclosed' bottle screws so I have to use a screwdriver to tighten the bottle screw,the hole is no more than 4mm dia so it is not ideal and I usualy break the shaft of the screw driver.
I lock the bottle screws with lock nuts at each end.
As an structral engineer I understand the point of possible cause cracking but as you say please somebody come up with a better idea!
 
If your Rigging screws are like mine and are open in the center,
There should be a small area of flat on the swagged threaded terminal to the rigging wire that will take a small spanner ( 8mm in my case with 5mm wire) I then use a large adjustable across the body of the turnbuckle part so that both legs are in the jaws.
If you use something like a screwdriver in the gap you may distort the body.

Hope that helps.
 
[ QUOTE ]
the book says "do not use a marlin spike or screwdriver to turn the rigging screw body. This will cause cracks which can lead to failure of the rigging screw".


[/ QUOTE ]

Reality Check!

Are we really at the point where we cant use marlinspikes to tighten rigging screws?

Methinks there is soomething wrong with the rigging screws!
 
Thanks all so far. Going back today so will look again more closely. Certainly there are spannering flats on the wire terminals, that's how I got the things undone. I'll try spanners on the turnbuckles themselves, but I really thought they were round section.
 
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