Threadlocker/Duralac question

Tradewinds

Tradewinds

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www.laurelberrystudio.com
On my Profurl the aluminium foil sections are held together with alu joiners held in place with stainless shouldered grub screws The riggers used Duralac rather than threadlocker as advisd in the assembly instructions. A while back I had a couple of grubscrews come loose and the foil section pull apart. Only a couple so not a big problem that time. I can see why they recommend threadlocker. But, when I tried to dismantle the foil to replace the forestay even these Duralac'd small grubscrews were a devil's own job to get out and I was worried about rounding the hex socket off. Heat and persistance coupled with brute force worked - but it was a close shave in a couple of instances.

So my question is, will threadlocker provide some dissimilar metals protection or am I better to stick with Duralac and hope there's enough 'grip' and the grub screws don't work their way out? I don't fancy having to drill these buggers out at some point in the future.

TIA
 
What colour of thread locker was used. Red is a devil to work with, you need lots of heat - blue is better. If its to be permanent red, if you might need to disassemble - blue

Sorry but I know nothing of the potential corrosion protecting offered by thread locker - but you are lucky your fitter used Duralac. I can think of many applications where they do not bother - with inevitable consequences. Duralac is very 'sticky' - I'd have stuck with Duralac.

Jonathan
 
Neeves said:
What colour of thread locker was used. Red is a devil to work with, you need lots of heat - blue is better. If its to be permanent red, if you might need to disassemble - blue

Sorry but I know nothing of the potential corrosion protecting offered by thread locker - but you are lucky your fitter used Duralac. I can think of many applications where they do not bother - with inevitable consequences. Duralac is very 'sticky' - I'd have stuck with Duralac.

Jonathan
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No threadlocker used in assembly, just Duralac - not at that stage yet, hence the Q. Probably what I will do. Plenty of Duralac on the threads. I hate the bloody stuff, so messy to use (I know-messy worker).

I use a simple cheap hot air gun on parts assembled with red - extremely effective.
 
Hi having totally refurbed by 2 profurls last year including new bearings and lip seals etc. I can speak from experience...... 1st bit of advice is get a hold of a MAPP torch , it will get those grub screws out in no time. I originally used Duralac also for my foils / grub screws but I have swapped back to threadlock as the Duralac was just too brittle for the shockloads on the foils and when I swapped them out almost every grubscrew with Duralac was loose. Stick with the threadlock.
 
LoneHort said:
Hi having totally refurbed by 2 profurls last year including new bearings and lip seals etc. I can speak from experience...... 1st bit of advice is get a hold of a MAPP torch , it will get those grub screws out in no time. I originally used Duralac also for my foils / grub screws but I have swapped back to threadlock as the Duralac was just too brittle for the shockloads on the foils and when I swapped them out almost every grubscrew with Duralac was loose. Stick with the threadlock.
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Thanks for the advice. Please to say the grub screws are safely out. I just didn't want corrosion issues down the line. I guess the threadlocker gives some insulation.
I'm also replacing the bearings - any tips? Any sources of 'How to'? It's an LC 42 (I think).

Ta.
 
Well mine are LC42's also.

A nice doc is here

http://www.ftp.tognews.com/Projects/Furler_Profurl_Maintenance/Replacing Profurl Bearings.pdf


I have the more detailed one referenced also.

I got my new bearings and lipseals from
Bearings, Chain and Power Transmission Product Suppliers - George Lodge and Sons Ltd
Metric Oil Seal Twin Lip
50mm x 80mm x 13mm
16010 TIMKEN 16010 Radial Ball
Bearing 50mm x 80mm x 10mm


If you are doing 1 furler you will need 4 lip seals and 2 bearings.

If you drive 2 short fat screws into the existing lip seals it helps greatly in pulling them out.

Take your time in disassembly , have a good set of circlip pliers and you will figure it out.
I also tapped a grease nipple into the side of the bodies to aid in getting fresh grease in.
Also make sure you put back the small bit of plastic that protects the top lipseals from UV damage , one of mine was proken so I just made a new one from some plastic.

Hope this helps,
Micheal
 
LoneHort said:
Well mine are LC42's also.

A nice doc is here

http://www.ftp.tognews.com/Projects/Furler_Profurl_Maintenance/Replacing Profurl Bearings.pdf


I have the more detailed one referenced also.

I got my new bearings and lipseals from
Bearings, Chain and Power Transmission Product Suppliers - George Lodge and Sons Ltd
Metric Oil Seal Twin Lip
50mm x 80mm x 13mm
16010 TIMKEN 16010 Radial Ball
Bearing 50mm x 80mm x 10mm


If you are doing 1 furler you will need 4 lip seals and 2 bearings.

If you drive 2 short fat screws into the existing lip seals it helps greatly in pulling them out.

Take your time in disassembly , have a good set of circlip pliers and you will figure it out.
I also tapped a grease nipple into the side of the bodies to aid in getting fresh grease in.
Also make sure you put back the small bit of plastic that protects the top lipseals from UV damage , one of mine was proken so I just made a new one from some plastic.

Hope this helps,
Micheal
Click to expand...
Michael. Many thanks. Super helpful.
Because I'm of that sort of mindset would it be possible to have the more detailed version that's referenced in the PDF?
I presume the circlip pliers needed are straight types?
Cheers,
Nigel
 
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