those connectors?

O

oldvarnish

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I want to chop and then remake a GPS antenna cable and I want to use those connectors which telephone engineers use.
The two wires go into the bottom, and I guess they are then crimped.

Anyone know what they're called?

thanks
 
oldvarnish said:
I want to chop and then remake a GPS antenna cable and I want to use those connectors which telephone engineers use.
The two wires go into the bottom, and I guess they are then crimped.

Anyone know what they're called?
Click to expand...

I think they're often known as BT connectors. RS sells them.

[EDIT: Clearly officially called something else, but is this what you mean:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/261420002113?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108
]
 
Last edited:
oldvarnish said:
I want to chop and then remake a GPS antenna cable and I want to use those connectors which telephone engineers use.
The two wires go into the bottom, and I guess they are then crimped.

Anyone know what they're called?

thanks
Click to expand...

They are really horrid things, Raymarine used to include them in kits but stopped quite some time ago, really designed for solid conductors not multi strand, basically mini Scotch locks with some jelly inside othewise known as insulation displacement connectors. There are far more suitable options available. They are not crimps, the button that is crunched with the pliers closes a knife and slices through the insulation and can easily damage the strands and lead to future failure, especially under vibration.
 
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David2452 said:
They are really horrid things, Raymarine used to include them in kits but stopped quite some time ago, really designed for solid conductors not multi strand, basically mini Scotch locks with some jelly inside othewise known as insulation displacement connectors. There are far more suitable options available. They are not crimps, the button that is crunched with the pliers closes a knife and slices through the insulation and can easily damage the strands and lead to future failure, especially under vibration.
Click to expand...

thanks for that. Have you got a suitable option in mind?

PS thanks to those who posted links
 
Google 'Wago' connectors. Available from TLC. also easily reused.

I have had the Raymarine jelly connectors fail on a RIB where, obviously, vibration was an issue.

Wago are great also for LED lighting.

Tony
 
But you are connecting a co-ax cable ( if I read you original post correctly )

If so you would be better getting a mail and female coax from Maplin etc, the clamp type don't need soldering ( even the inner pin just needs trimming to the correct length ).

You will need to know the cable type - typically printed on the cable jacket and probably rg58
 
oldvarnish said:
thanks for that. Have you got a suitable option in mind?

PS thanks to those who posted links
Click to expand...

As post #7 WAGO levers are good, but on the big side fror such small conductors as used in GPS pucks but very good on larger stuff (1.5mm2 - 4mm2), they are a pressure connector so acceptable for solid and multi strand. Personally I would opt for a minature crimp multi plug male and female, how many conductors are there?
 
I don't like soldered connections on board, except panel work, it turns the flexible stranded conductors into a solid core which can, just like solid core cable, fracture under vibration and flexing. In fact I would not be able to sign many jobs off as ISO or 0400 compliant if I used solder as it is specifically excluded.
 
Yes, I know, crimps are very much the norm now for most electrical connections. If done correctly, with the right tools no great problem. However I have lost count of the number of falling apart corroded connectors I have had to clean back and remake. Solder connections properly supported with heat sleeve I have found never give fatigue problems. An inline solder connection (as I think the OP was originally asking about) will have no "hard surface" for a fatigue to work against. Yes, solder bit slower to do, but will save time later on fault finding mysterious faults. My own boat I rewired 35 years ago, all solder joints, sleeved (Helerman sleeves then) and still,as good as when first done. Mechanically strong and with solder and impervious to moisture. I have yet to find a solder/sleeve joint failing on any boat, even power boats. However each to their own !
 
I have just used some connectors bought from Fox's in Ipswich, made by Shakespeare, not cheap but easy to use and quick. Can't remember the exact name or part no. as I've chucked away the packets.
 
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