this may be of interest to st1000 st2000 users

steve28

Well-Known Member
Joined
19 May 2003
Messages
1,480
Location
Cornwall
www.falmouthgypsy.com
I have found several raymarine st1000 st2000 units that have changed identity either from 2000 to 800 or 1000 to 800. this stops the unit receiving nmea info, blocks calibration mode and makes the helm to helm speed very low.

This can be changed by a series of keys being pressed as follows:
Hold in the +1 and -10 keys for ten seconds . Unit will display type setting, i.e. 800. Release the keys and hold them in again for another 10 seconds until the display begins flashing the type setting. Toggle this setting to the appropriate type with the plus and minus keys. Repeat holding in the +1 and -10 keys for another 10 seconds to exit this calibration mode and save the changes to the settings.

I have also changed a 1000 to a 2000, this does increase the actuator speed slightly.

Steve

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
My Navico Tillerpilot has died (or rather gone insane given that it works continuously and eventually goes hard to starboard and never stops). So I am in the market for a new tillerpilot. Would you recommend the Ray Marine versions?

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
I've had (and still got as a spare), an Autohelm (now Raymarine) ST2000 for 11 years and it's still going strong - touch wood. The only repair I have made to it was a new ram seal.

Before this, I had a very old AH1000 (ram and controller separate) that to the best of my knowledge went across the Atlantic on a steel boat - he had my AH1000 in exchange for his ST2000.

The boat I sold last year has still got an old AH1000 (single unit) and was used on charter work for 6 years.

My new boat is fitted with an Autohelm ST3000 wheel pilot auto-helm. and the AH3000 that it replaced is now on another boat somewhere.

So, yes, Autohelm/Raymarine.

<hr width=100% size=1>regards,
Philip
 
Hi Phillip!

Entirely agree. From choice we do not have a wind vane. The 2000 that came with my boat is 20 years old and it took us round our last pond circuit without a murmur of protest. Of course, I didn't think it would do so, so bought 3 further (modern) 2000's as spares!! Just by way of a change we occasionally used one of the new ones, and we were extremely impressed with the twice as quick 'hard-over' times, rugged construction and fault free course holding and it was hard to resist using them full time.

Having said that, during one patch of very lumpy weather, the motor drive wheel on a new one did work loose, was tapped back on, and worked fine thereafter. It was though, in fairness to it, coping at the time with some 40 odd knots of wind and it's associated seastate.

So, yes, Tillergirl, go for Autohelm/Raymarine, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

Good sailing to you both

Jerry

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
My Autohelm 1000+ did the same but I fixed it by cleaning the PCB (printed circuit board)with PCB cleaner obtained from Maplin. Since then it has behaved as it should.

Good luck

Paul

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Hi Steve,

My ST1000 comes up as A1000 on powerup, and I'm interested to know if this is the unit you refer to - mine doesn't have + and - though, it's green and red, which is just as well, 'cos I can tell from the tabs on the back of my gloves which ones to press ... :-)

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
While making enquiries recently I was told that there is little difference between the actual components and use but a huge difference in the after sales service if you are unfortunate enough to need it of the top most famous three manufacturers. I was assured by this supplier that the Raymarine would definately be the better bet. Some of the examples he told us about were horrifying.
You pays your money...............

<hr width=100% size=1>http://colvicownersclub.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk
 
Try sending it to simrad who now make these - it should be repairable - it cost about fifty qyuid for my TP200 to be reset as it was jamming hardover - basically the belt slips and the stepper motor inside gets confused, travels too far and jams the arm in the case - I got very good at undoing the case and stripping the lid off to free it until I could get it repaired.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
folks i have a raymarine st1000+ with remote , tiller pilot. i have completed the calibration as outlined in the manual.....but......but.... the compass heading and the heading on the tiller pilot dont match ......any ideas?



<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Hi Steve

Thankyou for the tip

Wonder if I might pick your brain,

I have an ST1000+ that I think is mankinds greatest invention. I normally single hand. I know that there is a remote control available but would you know if it was possible to fit auxilliary, momentary buttons elsewhere in the cockpit that would do the same function as the +1, +10, -1, -10 buttons on the unit.

Does the remote control have contacts being made or is it sending some other type of signal?

Regards
Cameron

<hr width=100% size=1>Work to live, live to sail
 
unfortunatly not the remote is a seatalk based controll that operates from three core wire,plus minus and the seatalk itself.
The remotes are available to buy but its weather its worth it.
Personaly i use mine either in the cabin or in the shelter of the cabin so i dont have to go back aft to make course corrections.
the remote only has the +&- 10 buttons and the +&- 1 buttons
It may be worth your while asking on the wanted section as i have seen people offering them for sale there.


steve


<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Top