there must be something better than yacht varnish

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ortogo

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Less than 2 years after stripping back to bare wood all the wood on my boat and applying a good quality yacht varnish as per the makers instructions, the varnish again needs stripping completely and redoing, is there a better product that I could use on the wood that might last longer?
 
I stripped a classic 1937 45ft ketch back to bare wood 6 years ago and applied 6 or 7 full coats of Epiphanes varnish to a mirror like gloss. Each year we scrape back any weathered patches and build up thickness, we then apply two overall coats on top. Six years on she still looks good and will probably do another 3 or 4 years before stripping back again. If its done properly and maintained properly, traditional varnish will always look good. Yes, there is a cost to this but owners I have worked for feel it well worth while to have something that is admired by all.
 
Just checked out the epifanes varnish, like several people has said, not cheap, but if people rate it I might give it a go
 
Suggest you use International Woodskin which will outlast any conventional varnish without the constant repairing of areas where it flakes off and water gets underneath. Looks good on external teak such as hand rails and rubbing strakes.
 
I would go for Epifanes if wanting varnish, or try Dutch Oil if you want something different - perhaps do a small bit and see how you get on. Most yacht varnishes now are meant for interior use and I've even come across some that have said "not for marine use"!
 
As I understand it teak has natural oils and as a consequence any varnish will not last because it is effectively 'pushed off' by these oils. Semco may be an option as per the link already posted or alternatively use a teak cleaner and oil. We did this on one of our previous boats which had a teak handrail running round the cabin.
 
Sorry if I am repeating myself here .....

Cracking of hard varnish is wear & tear or water expanding the wood underneath ... key is to prevent the water entering the wood... so..

Clear off existing varnish and sand teak as usual... apply generous amount of Owatrol D1... wet-on-wet ... probably 5 - 8 coats until the wood does not absorb any more. Then let dry for 24 hrs and follow up with 3 - 5 coats of Owatrol D2 (approx. 12 hr intervals) ... D1 is oil and D2 is Oil based varnish where top layer dries to a gloss and hard finish, with the lower now oil saturated wood will remain protected and repel water. I did this three years ago (now onto 4th) and teak is still looking like it was when first treated... If you want to build up ... or have very exposed areas, you can lightly sand top layer and add another coat of D2. A lot of work perhaps, but when done properly, it will last for years ....
 
Divemaster1 said:
Sorry if I am repeating myself here .....

Cracking of hard varnish is wear & tear or water expanding the wood underneath ... key is to prevent the water entering the wood... so..

Clear off existing varnish and sand teak as usual... apply generous amount of Owatrol D1... wet-on-wet ... probably 5 - 8 coats until the wood does not absorb any more. Then let dry for 24 hrs and follow up with 3 - 5 coats of Owatrol D2 (approx. 12 hr intervals) ... D1 is oil and D2 is Oil based varnish where top layer dries to a gloss and hard finish, with the lower now oil saturated wood will remain protected and repel water. I did this three years ago (now onto 4th) and teak is still looking like it was when first treated... If you want to build up ... or have very exposed areas, you can lightly sand top layer and add another coat of D2. A lot of work perhaps, but when done properly, it will last for years ....
Click to expand...

I have teak in my cockpit, mostly under the cover, I used D2 and its very good, but I'd still leave it bare if out to the weather.
 
Thanks for everyone's replies. In the end I decided to give international woodskin a go. I've stripped all the wood completely of previous finishes. The wood skin looks like a cross between an oil and a varnish and can be applied directly to bare wood. It brushes on easily and doesn't run. I've given all the wood three coats and I quite like the finish. It will be interesting to see how it holds up, hopefully I can give you an update in 12 months
 
Well as promised, here is an update on the international woodskin which I applied just over 12 months ago. Although the finish has dulled down a little, it is all completely intact with no flaking, lifting, cracking discolouring or any sign of breaking down. I've been very impressed and pleased with the product. This spring I went over the wood with 400 wet and dry just to give a key and gave it all another couple of coats, looks really good again, can wholeheartedly recommend the product
 
ortogo said:
Well as promised, here is an update on the international woodskin which I applied just over 12 months ago. Although the finish has dulled down a little, it is all completely intact with no flaking, lifting, cracking discolouring or any sign of breaking down. I've been very impressed and pleased with the product. This spring I went over the wood with 400 wet and dry just to give a key and gave it all another couple of coats, looks really good again, can wholeheartedly recommend the product
Click to expand...

Thanks for the report back.

ATB,

John G
 
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