There are Patch, Bodge & Professional ... and we are talking Wood

OGITD

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Now I can help with Gelcoat ... but when it comes to Wood ... that's a different mater.

So! ... has anyone any experience in filling small screw holes, and removing dents from finished surfaces.

I remember something about soaking the area first for a certain period of time to expand and raise the grain of the damaged area. But what would be best for this (if this is the appropriate method) ... plain water or some form of solvent etc?

My initial thoughts are to purchase a selection of grades of wire-wool for the prep, then soak in Acetone as it will clean & evaporate and possibly fill with layers of lacquer.

I've just had a quick search & it's pointing me towards French Polishing ... ahh-well ... new skill-set ... :eek:
 
With very small screw holes it's often less noticeable of they are filled rather than opened out and plugged. For raising dents a soldering iron and a wet folded kitchen towel can raise even deep dents, and it is often worth doing screwholes as well as they sometimes close up a bit. You don't need wire wool and acetone, just some fine glass paper.
My local tool and fixings supplier sells a range of 2 part fillers in various shades, much cheaper than the diy sheds.
 
small tiny cloth wet only just the on the area of dent and place hot iron on. The water is steam is driven into wood cells and expands swelling the wood cells . You can wet the area of the dent first but only the dent or the surrounding wood will expand a bit .. I does work ... but not miracles ! Sand after and smalldents can be lifted
 
Thanks Guys!

For all the advice and replies.

(The Truth!) ;)

I was trying to keep it 'Boaty' to gain maximum advice and for shared info for all Forumites regarding wood repairs ... thinking of tables and bulkheads etc. But what I am actually going to attempt is repairs to an acoustic guitar circa 78 including some of the 'tone-wood'.

Long-ish story short ... I have to retire a fantastic guitar of the same era ... and have stumbled across it's brother, which is in a playable condition, but requiring some minor (I hope) cosmetic repairs.

If I manage to achieve my goal I should have a guitar on a par with a D28 for 1/9th the price + about 5-ish hours work (+bits). :D

As Chris Martin (of Martin Guitars) explained when one of his senior members of staff was asked to assess an 'Old Martin' ... you just know when you have a good guitar by the response it gives you.

Anyway .... once again thanks for all the advice .... and I will apply this to all my internal wood repairs on the Boat as-well. :)
 
If it's a decent quality acoustic guitar then whatever you do don't use filler on it. If it is old it will be finished with varnish, which can be obtained in many various shades from a luthiers supplier. Newer guitars are often finished with a 2 part acid cat lacquer, which is very difficult to repair for the averagely-equipped home restorer. Any cosmetic damage is best left alone and viewed as an honourable battle scar (tell your friends you threw it out of a hotel bedroom along with the telly).
 
Thanks SRP

Filler was never in the equation .... I know these guitars & the tone from them is something else .... they very rarely become available which is why I am keen to repair this 'old-girl'.

I'm looking at removing any dirt from the exposed wood, raising any dings & scratches, sealing any exposed grain & fibers to reduce (hopefully prevent) any further degradation and closing some screw holes near the machine-heads, plus giving a couple of coats of something to make it look uniform.

I once (many years ago) went to purchase a 'varnish brush' ..... & nearly dropped on the spot when I was shown some antiques from a very dusty box at the back of the shop & then told the price! ... :(

Hey! .... just a note for those who might want to comment about this being 'non-boaty' ..... wood repair is wood repair! .... and it's my opinion that every 'Boat' should carry a reasonable quality / playable Guitar ...... ref: Lin & LarryPardey! (+ many others!) ... ;)
 
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Steaming dents certainly does work but I would be very cautious about doing it on the thin wood of a guitar. You could easily do more harm than good.
 
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