Testing outboard compression?

  • Thread starter Thread starter prv
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It sounds as though your compression gauge is faulty. Can you try it in the car? or lawn mower

Yep, that was my initial conclusion, but I thought I'd ask in case there was something obvious I was missing. Diesel car and electric lawnmower, but I do have a 4-stroke petrol generator I could try it on.

Drop test =
Short out or disconnect one plug at a time. If one is not firing disconnecting it wont make any difference. You should get an equal effect from both. Take care Use insulated pliers or you'll get one hell of a shock!

Thanks - I may give that a go. Leads can shock even through the rubber, then?

I assume youve tried new plugs already.

At first I thought I had, because I remember buying them (I'm working on this engine in dribs and drabs when I have time). But when I took them out to do the compression test, they were the old ones - I realise now that the replacements I bought were for spares!

In general I haven't done much in the way of troubleshooting - testing the compression was to be my first approach because if it turned out that I'd knackered the head with excessive use of wet&dry to remove the remains of the old gasket, there'd be no point trying other things. The compression test seemed a nice positive yes-or-no answer.

If ignition is all OK turn your attention to the carb and clean thoroughly. It's possible that the high speed jet is blocked.

Already given the carb a good clean when I had the whole engine in bits. I didn't deliberately disturb or adjust anything.

So, I think my next step is to try the compression tester on the generator and confirm that it's knackered. Then get my hands on one that works. Then if that shows ok, start looking at other possible causes.

Pete
 
Thanks - I may give that a go. Leads can shock even through the rubber, then?

Oh yes !


At first I thought I had, because I remember buying them (I'm working on this engine in dribs and drabs when I have time). But when I took them out to do the compression test, they were the old ones - I realise now that the replacements I bought were for spares!
Always worth changing the plugs.
In general I haven't done much in the way of troubleshooting - testing the compression was to be my first approach because if it turned out that I'd knackered the head with excessive use of wet&dry to remove the remains of the old gasket, there'd be no point trying other things. The compression test seemed a nice positive yes-or-no answer.
Always advised on the American outboard forums

Already given the carb a good clean when I had the whole engine in bits. I didn't deliberately disturb or adjust anything.
You might have to clean it again more thoroughly. ( BTW I now realise that there is a only a slow running adjustment on that engine) The diagram shows a funny little bladder thing. That is a very basic fuel pump Is that OK I'm abit puzzled by the fact that it does not die for 5 seconds or so........ makes me wonder about fuel flow although a problem there would not cause it to die even that soon
So, I think my next step is to try the compression tester on the generator and confirm that it's knackered. Then get my hands on one that works. Then if that shows ok, start looking at other possible causes.

Pete
 
I hesitate to ask this and apologize for doing so, but your compression tester hasn't got a pressure release valve that you have forgotten to close has it?
 
I hesitate to ask this and apologize for doing so, but your compression tester hasn't got a pressure release valve that you have forgotten to close has it?

No, it has a button which you press to release the pressure. I've wiggled it and I don't think it's stuck in the "release" position.

Pete
 
I can't quite remember, but I think the fuel pump is only involved when using a remote tank.

Pete

You have the option to use the integral tank or a remote tank then. They vary.

To lift fuel from a remote tank there is normal type of diaphragm pump driven directly by vacuum pulses from the crankcase. It has two hoses, one from the fuel line connector and one to the carb.

Also there is a sort of minipump consisting of a "bladder" and a couple of one way valves built into the carb ( #31 and #32 in the parts diagram) which assists the flow from the integral tank. It is also driven by vacuum pulses from the crankcase via a hose.

The fuel tap/ choke control switches between integral tank and off/remote tank.

005A.png
 
It is also driven by vacuum pulses from the crankcase via a hose.

Ah, right, yes. I remember that hose. Without thinking too hard, I assumed it was some kind of crankcase breather, but of course that makes no sense on a 2-stroke.

Pete
 
TBH, with all the dodgy two strokes I've owned, if it makes a convincing bit of pressure when you put your thumb over the plug'ole and crank it, compression is not what's preventing it from running.
The air that comes out should smell convincingly of petrol.
And not have too much oil in it....
 
For completeness, it might be worth ruling out the 'odd' possibilities,
As the motor has been rebuilt, it's conceivable something is out of place.
If the air filter/intake can't flow the air, or the exhaust is closed off by the baffles out of place or something, that can have these symptoms.

I would guess carb though.
Because it usually is.
 
leaving aside the compression issue which I reckon is a faulkty guage, the first place to lookl with the syptoms you give is fuel starvation . Could be that the main jey is blocked , with the engine starting and idling on the starter jet. If engines are left with fuel in them and not used for a few years, the fuel evaporates and leaves befind a sort of varnish. This blocks jets and passiageways.
 
At a guess, crankcase reed valve - it happened to me on Johnson 9.9 twin, in 1982. Had to spend the night anchored just by #16 channel buoy, just out of the channel near Brownsea.
Exactly the same symptoms!!
Good thought.
I'm not into Johnsons, didn't realise they were reed valve.
 
At a guess, crankcase reed valve - it happened to me on Johnson 9.9 twin, in 1982. Had to spend the night anchored just by #16 channel buoy, just out of the channel near Brownsea.
Exactly the same symptoms!!

Good thought.
I'm not into Johnsons, didn't realise they were reed valve.

Not usually something that's troublesome as far as i can make out but here they are #4 ( only one of two shown. ) between the inlet manifold #1 and the crank case

006A.png
 
Not usually something that's troublesome as far as i can make out but here they are #4 ( only one of two shown. ) between the inlet manifold #1 and the crank case
]

They have been known to stick shut, get broken etc.
Usually on moped belonging to hoons though!
 
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