Terminal strip from RS Components

[Durcott]

Hi Folks,

I've been hassling Ships_cat and others over ideas for terminals for use on combinig circuits with very different wire sizes.

The general scenario is DC/DC converter, VHF radio and GPS sensor with tiny wires. I'd like to get this lot hooked up as neatly and reliably as possible. (Yes - the GPS is just for the radio /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif it's to make a redundant backup radio set, so I need to provide external power for it.)

Based on what we've thought so far, I've found these jobbies on the RS Components web site, which work with 4BA soldered tags. They're all plated brass on a plastic base, with a nominal 15A rating.

Some cable ties and a bit of sleeving ought to make a neat job. 'Bussing' a few terminals together to make a supply rail is going to be a pain though.

Does anyone have a better wiring solution?

Thanks

Jeff

 

[misterg]

Used these terminals myself, but used one of these from Screwfix for a busbar.

However I didn't clamp the wires into the holes - I crimped an eyelet onto the end of the wire and screwed this down onto the top of the metal.

3 years on, and no problems. FWIW I would recommend using adhesive filled heat-shrink tubing to keep moisture out of the crimped connections too.

Andy

 

[simonfraser]

my boat has the RS ones, now 6 years old, not corroded yet

 

[bobgosling]

I use cheap plastic jobbies , available almost anywhere , and replace them every few years when they start to look dull. Gives me the chance to examine and re-do any cable ends.

 

[duncan]

funnily enough a added a coupleof these to a Screwfix order and they have done sterling work on theboat - way way cheaper than I found anywhere else.

I just soldered the wire ends and screwed the bolts onto them - avoided soldered joints as not all the wires are fully supported around this area!

 

[awyatybw]

Re: Adhesive filled heat-shrink tubing/connectors

[ QUOTE ]
FWIW I would recommend using adhesive filled heat-shrink tubing to keep moisture out of the crimped connections too.


[/ QUOTE ]

And what do you use to heat and shrink the tubing on the assembled connectors? I have and use these but have yet to find a good solution to effect the heat-shrinking.

Alan.

 

[AndrewD]

Get proper tinned ones from www.merlinequipment.com

They won't be cheap (but it's a small component, so the actual £££ is not much) but they will work and mor importantly go on working.

Don't use domestic stuff from RS or Screwfix or B&Q or anyone else: it's the wrong thing for the job.

 

[Evadne]

Re: Adhesive filled heat-shrink tubing/connectors

The correct tool is a hot air gun, here , if you have mains electrickery. If not, some gas soldering irons come with a hot air nozzle.

 

[cliff]

Re: Adhesive filled heat-shrink tubing/connectors

Wind proof fag lighter or if stuck an ordinary lighter.
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Don't use domestic stuff from RS or Screwfix or B&Q or anyone else: it's the wrong thing for the job.

[/ QUOTE ]Oh dear, I'd better remove the ones from my boat that were fitted 6 years ago then if they are "the wrong thing for the job" /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif - seems a shame as there is no evidence of corrosion not any "bad" connections as far as I am aware.
On second thoughts if they have lasted 6 years I suppose they will last a bit longer /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[Anonymous]

You can't do better than these terminals. My father had his yacht wired with these (or similar) when he had it built in 1971 and never had a single failure due to a terminal until he sold it in the mid 1990s. His choice was based on a long career in military electronics.

However, for maximum reliability, crimp (or solder) tags on. These can be spade or ring (ring are a pain but safer). You should also put a rubber sleeve on the wire and run that up to the tag, to act as stress relief - this is very important. Finally, choose proper marine connecting wire - very expensive but not a great sum in the overall scheme of things.

If you do this, and cableform or neatly tie your loom, you will have a wiring system to be truly proud of. It will also be very reliable and easy to modify. By the way, don't forget to draw a neat sketch of your wiring layout!

 

[Durcott]

OK - nearly there - all great replies and all points considered.

So - where do I get 'proper marine connecting wire'? Is that just a decent sized tinned copper wire or something else?

Thanks

Jeff

 

[Anonymous]

There is a UL listing but the key issue is the wire being tinned and stranded. Untinned corrodes very quickly and the corrosion wicks (if that is the right term) down the wire until the whole thing is just a length of copper salt held together by a PVC sheath. Solid will work-harden and break if there is much vibration.

 

[misterg]

Re: Adhesive filled heat-shrink tubing/connectors

[ QUOTE ]

And what do you use to heat and shrink the tubing on the assembled connectors?

[/ QUOTE ]

I had the luxury of doing the work with mains power available, and just used a heat gun (DIY paint stripping thing) which means you don't have to worry too much about scorching the tubing. Have also used a small butane torch (the ones like big pens), lighters, and soldering irons.

The main thing is to use tinned multistrand cable. I used 356-763 from RS which I fused at 5 Amps. This was the biggest I could find at a sensible price. (I had to use something bigger for the tiller pilot, though). Rather than buying lots of colours, I stuck with two (for + & -) and wrote the names of each circuit on a piece of tabe, wrapped this around the end of the wire and sealed it inside some clear heat-shrink before I fitted the crimp terminal.

As well as sealing the crimp connector, the adhesive filled heat shring acts as a strain relief, too.

I have absolutely no qualms about using these connectors for boat wiring.

Andy

Edit: Hopefully link works now. If not, you've got the part number, and it's www.rswww.com /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Durcott]

Thanks everyone,

this is a most excellent forum.

I've finally got a consistant view on how to approach the whole job instead of a foggy head and too many questions.

Thanks

Jeff

 

[awyatybw]

Re: Adhesive filled heat-shrink tubing/connectors

[ QUOTE ]
Have also used a small butane torch (the ones like big pens), ....

[/ QUOTE ]

That is what I have used but I do not really find it satisfactory. I think I'll get one of those small gas soldering irons which also has a hot-air nozzle. Sounds like a useful tool in any case.

Alan.

 

[AndrewD]

Well your mileage may vary as they say. I rewired my boat last winter and I have some real horror photos of the stuff I took out - ordinary domestic connector block and cable (much of it black from end to end...), including some of the things people are suggesting/mentioning on this thread.

I stand by my statement that it's the wrong thing for the job.

Maybe I was just unlucky.

 

[bedouin]

My experience is that domestic-style wiring is adequate for some, but not all, tasks on the boat.

The majority of wiring on my boat is well away from water and so is probably in a less-harsh environment than most automotive installations. Much of the wiring in my boat is >30 years old and shows no sign of corrosion.

However there are areas that are much more aggressive - anything mounted where water can get to it (e.g. above decks, below deck fittings, bilges and cockpit lockers). These do sometimes show severe corrosion and unprotected copper can deteriorate to unuseable within a season.

 

[Anonymous]

The problem comes when you take green water and find new leaks, or someone leaves a hatch open. Or a hose leaks in the engine room spewing water (salt or fresh) everywhere. What would have been an hour with a bucket and cloth becomes a nightmare as you have to consider rewiring your boat. At one time or another we have probably all though that we could cut corners and use shore-type materials and practices in places, on our boats but it is always, without exception a slip-shod, unsatisfactory and potentially dangerous practice. IMO, having been there and done that, I know /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[AndrewD]

I think that's fair. Despite what I said before, I actually have domestic-style cabling inside my mast (for the nav lights) and I didn't replace it because it was too hard to do, with the mast up. The mast is down now, so it will be interesting to see what voltage drops I'm seeing. If necessary I'll replace it all with fully-tinned cable - as the rest already is.