Teleflex Control Lever problem - self closing over first part of travel

[gandy]

Hi,

Since we re-engined, and had to convert both throttle and gear shift to the opposite directions, the controls have always felt a bit harsh, "crunchy" and sort of not right. Today I've had a good look and found the biggest problem being the gear cable very stiff, new cable needed. However after adjusting everything with the gear cable removed, I'm still left with one problem. The lever has a strong self-closing action over the first part of travel after the gear is engaged. This about the same amount of travel, meaning for the sake of argument if the lever moves through 15 degrees to engage gear, I need to move it at least 30 before it will stay put. This makes it impossible to raise revs just a little (unless I want to hold the lever). After that 30 degrees the control is fine, will stay in position for hours on end if left alone.

My first thought was to adjust the throttle so it doesn't start to move off idle until the lever is past that self-closing position, however that's not possible because the cable is a push-pull type and such adjustment means it's trying to push the engine control past the idle stop.

The control is the 700SS type as fitted to most sailing boats.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Tony S

 

[trevorr]

If memory serves me there is a friction screw on the teleflex controls. I think it's located underneath the rectangular plastic panel.

 

[PlankWalker]

I solved a similar problem by putting a little G clamp thingy on the morce cable to increase friction, obtainable from the cable suppliers.

 

[chewi]

Does it still self close if its disconnected from the throttle on the engine?
If not maybe the new engine is self closing its throttle whereas the old one didn't., and the control struggles to fight it.

 

[gandy]

Cheers. The lever self closes through that arc without the cable connected. It's not the engine's return spring (in fact that is very weak). This is why I think something's wrong, and that although adding friction to overcome it might be a temporary workaround, it wouldn't be a proper fix. I can't think why a control would be made self closing for the first part of it's travel, but not the rest. So it seems to me that either that self closing shouldn't happen, or if it's intentional then it shouldn't start moving the throttle control until beyond that point.

Is there something I could have assembled wrong when converting from push throttle to pull?

I don't plan to be at the boat until weekend after next, but might make a special trip out if the new gear cable arrives before then.

 

[scottie]

You need to get hold of the instructions which are on the forum as this is a FAQ
Basically you require to move the cable mounting position you have to utalise the lost motion that is built in so that the revs do not increase whilst going from neutral to engageing gear
The control is best set up with the engine in gear at idle
Sorry I can't visualise the set up from memory
Is the gear cable stiff whilst totally disconnected?

 

[gandy]

Yes, the gear cable is completely goosed, really stiff even when completely removed from the boat and lying straight.

 

[Spyro]

I have the same problem at the other end of the travel. Mine is ok up to about 3/4 throttle if I give it a bit more it wants to spring back. I have to give it full throttle first to get it to stay between 3/4 and full. I have had a look at the instructions and there is indeed a friction adjustment screw. It's on my to do list.

 

[gandy]

That's interesting, is yours Pushing or Pulling to open the throttle? Reading the installation document there's a part that needs to go in a different slot when converting between the two, not just reversing the bit that holds the cable. Not easy to explain without the picture. I'm hoping that's what's up with mine.

 

[scottie]

That's interesting, is yours Pushing or Pulling to open the throttle? Reading the installation document there's a part that needs to go in a different slot when converting between the two, not just reversing the bit that holds the cable. Not easy to explain without the picture. I'm hoping that's what's up with mine.

As the various makes and models of control differ it's best to have the correct instructions or you end up braking cables

 

[gandy]

I have the correct instructions, the set is model 700SS. http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/700SS-Instruction-Manual.pdf

Referring back to your earlier post, the action up to and including selecting gear is all functionally correct. Throttle does not start to open until after the gear is selected. Re-reading the instructions I see that the control is shipped set for pull throttle with instructions to convert to push. So originally ours must have been converted to push for the old engine, now I'm converting back to pull. So I need to read between the lines a little. For example it says that when converting to push there's a pin that must go in the inner groove of the rotating part - it doesn't explicitly say it goes in the outer grove for pulling but I can't see why else there'd be two grooves. Anyway for that part there are only four possible combinations so it wouldn't take five minutes to try all four without the cable fitted.