Team deck fastening on Nimbus

[Karearea]

Does anyone know the method used by Nimbus (mid-nineties onwards) to fasten the teak decking?
I haven't noticed any sign of plugs in photos on line so am hoping only some form of adhesive is used.
We are not keen on hundreds of holes being drilled into the deck structure.

 

[Al Dickson]

Try Nimbus customer services Eftermarknad@nimbus.se they take a couple of days to get back to you but have found them pretty helpful

 

[scubaman]

As far as I know, most builders ceased to use screws in the early nineties. If there are no plugs visible, it's glued down. Imho, you are quite right to be cautious of screwed decks (pun intented).

 

[Karearea]

Sorry. Obviously meant "Teak deck fastening on Nimbus".

 

[Karearea]

Maybe this should be a new thread but I couldn't see how to start one!
As will be seen we did buy our Nimbus and ship it from the UK.
This is another teak deck enquiry but a little different and perhaps more specific.
We have just taken possession of our 2005 Nimbus from UK with which we are rapt.
Despite the great overall condition of the vessel I would like to work to improve the condition of the teak decks. Upon arrival, as part of the authorised prep (which mostly involved upgrading the electrics to the very strict NZ standards), the teak decks were cleaned.
We found that the teak is clean and “teak coloured” so have oiled it all with Yachticon Clear Teak Oil.
Whether it was like this in UK or a result of the “cleaning” process (which in retrospect I would not have authorised) the net result is that it looks great but the caulking it completely intact but standing proud of the actual teak.
I would like to lower the caulking seam to the level of the timber (before any sections break off) and carefully level off the complete area (the softer grain areas are slightly lower than the streaks of hard grain) by a few millimetres then re-oil.
My first question is: would careful chiselling followed by sanding of the remaining caulking and hard/high grain areas work? We would then clear oil the deck.
Second question: would regular “Yachticon” oiling slow the erosion of the softer grain areas?
The teak decking is quite thick so hopefully removing of (maybe) 1mm of timber should not effect any plugs etc.
As this is our retirement vessel, time will be available and maintaining the teak with regular doses of the Yachticon will be a “labour of love”. I like the clear oil as some teak I have seen oiled with teak oil that includes stain (golden) look a little artificial and “painted”.

 

[Nick_H]

Yes, it's easy to remove the excess caulk with a sharp chisel, a 25mm blade seems to work well. The deck can then be sanded to remove some of the high points and make it smoother.

I'm less keen on the oil idea. I've not used the Yachticon product, but that golden artificial colour you see on other decks is most likely an oil or sealer that looked just like your oil at first, then gradually dried out and discoloured to leave the painted look.

The best way to extend the life of a teak deck imho, is to cover it when you leave the boat for long periods. It's sun and rain that kill the deck, so if you can avoid both during the times you're not using the boat then it will last much longer.

 

[gjgm]

You could try sanding with 80 to 120 grit..you do this when laying the deck and caulking...but note..the dust is very fine and gets absolutely everywhere so totally cover everything or you will be cleaning for weeks.Be very cautious of how much you remove because the teak will not be THAT thick.
There are many teak cleaners and restorers...be very cautious of any acid based ones on older caulking...or you risk having to recaulk the whole teak as the acid can break down the caulking into a gooey mess. That is a very messy and time consuming job, and not alot of fun doing the preparation.

Personally, if it is all sound, I would be wary of interfering with it, though a test sand with 120 grit-even by hand-should be ok, I think. Still at 12 years old, there is a risk that you will regret ever starting to mess with it....
Newer decking and caulking seems a bit more resilient, but perhaps not surprisingly the caulking seems to get a bit less robust as it gets older.Owaltrol make a garden furniture cleaner that a teak specialist told me to use ( and told me to stop using acid based cleaners).I don't think it is quite as effective as the acid based ones, but less damaging to the caulking.

 

[Tradewinds]

There are many teak cleaners and restorers...be very cautious of any acid based ones on older caulking...or you risk having to recaulk the whole teak as the acid can break down the caulking into a gooey mess. That is a very messy and time consuming job, and not alot of fun doing the preparation. . . . . Owaltrol make a garden furniture cleaner that a teak specialist told me to use ( and told me to stop using acid based cleaners).I don't think it is quite as effective as the acid based ones, but less damaging to the caulking.

As do Teak Decking Systems - ECO-100 available here: http://www.teakdeckingsystems.co.uk/cleaning products.htm

 

[Karearea]

Thanks Nick. Will seriously look at the covering idea which I like. The fully intact caulking stands quite high above the wood and must eventually start to break off so I'm leaning towards the chisel plan too.

 

[jfm]

yes definitely cut off the proud caulk with a blade. You can use those plastic things into which you insert a Stanley knife blade, to form a chisel/scraper.

Then sand, then clean. I don't bother with oil type products but each to their own on that. Nor do I use acid cleaner except once a year. Regular washing with soap, and the stuff in #8 above every third or so wash, keeps it a light straw colour

 

[Karearea]

Thanks for the information gigm and I am very wary of "ever starting to mess with it"! Although standing quite well above the teak the caulking seems very firm, almost rubber-like (obvious when walking in bare feet) but I've a dock neighbour whose 22 year old caulking has broken off in places which I very much want to avoid. I also want to avoid using any cleaner or scrubbing at all if possible. Point taken about oil build-up. FYI the boat is in salt water for the first time since new.

 

[Karearea]

Will look at the ECO-100 thanks Tradewinds, but like the look of the first application of the the clear Yachticon (a German product so hope it will withstand our UV!).

 

[rafiki_]

Once cleaned and sound, I use Semco to finish. Gives a very natural look, and improves the durability of the finish.

 

[alt]

yes definitely cut off the proud caulk with a blade. You can use those plastic things into which you insert a Stanley knife blade, to form a chisel/scraper.

Then sand, then clean. I don't bother with oil type products but each to their own on that. Nor do I use acid cleaner except once a year. Regular washing with soap, and the stuff in #8 above every third or so wash, keeps it a light straw colour

This is exactly what I did.

I had proud caulking on my platform, most likely to some genius powerhosing the teak in a previous life.

I got the caulk as 'in line' with the teak as possible using the blade and then sanded. Looked like new but gave it a 2 part clean anyway.

Didn't bother using any oils etc. (personal choice). I will simply use 2-part cleaner again this coming season. Might even give it another sand as to be honest I think i'll be replacing it next year.

 

[Karearea]

Thanks for confirming that process as feasible alt. That's what I believe I'll do, but will use the clear oil after the gentle sanding as I do like the look and feel. I will keep an eye out for any build up though.
I have a feeling that along with the linseed or Tung oil there is a shellac or other hardening component which discourages leaching and protects the finished surface a little. I have used similar products on gunstocks which builds to a great looking finish. Sort of "French polish over oil"?
Gunstocks however should never be walked on!