Teak

[ferdie]

What is the best way to treat my, previously much neglected, external teak gunwhales and fittings? I've sanded, scraped and cleaned with varying results, to get back to the original finish. Then, do I oil or varnish? I've seen Rustins Teak Oil recommended, what are the pro's and cons?

 

[Tim_Pettigrew]

I have had exactly the same problem after purchasing a 20 year old Drascombe Lugger last year where the teak gunwhales, transom board and thwarts had not been treated for years. After sanding off the weathered patina I opted to treat the teak with Burgess Woodsealer. This is water based, dead easy to apply by brush, and dries in 20 minutes. The teak looked immaculate and it has lasted well through the season, except in areas chafed by the over cover.

 

[petery]

Why sand down weathered gunwhales - I think the 'etched' grain of old teak looks fine. I just applied a teak cleaner with a wire brush to get into the grain - then a lightener and then some teak oil and now 'everyone admires them'. I haven't got the tins to hand but I think they are called 'Teak Wonder' and come as a dual pack

 

[Lofty]

I have also used Burgess Wood Preserver and have found it to be excellent. However, don't let it get onto any gel coat because it's a pig to get off. Also because it has the consistency of water, it is very easy to spray very fine droplets from the brush and these get everywhere except where you want them.

 

[ccscott49]

Try varnol, with real turpentine, gives a lovely matt finish, which would suit your boat, dead easy to apply.

 

[gjeffery]

I used Sikkens Cetol on my handrails this autumn, and I am watching with interest, to see how this lasts. Please does anyone have any long term experience with this product?

 

[ccscott49]

I've heard of this stuff, never seen it. Does it stain the wood or is it clear like varnish?

 

[JerryHawkins]

I've used Rustin's Danish oil on my Fisher 25 external teak work and it looks great. Only did it in the summer so it'll be interesting to see how long it lasts. It's very quick and easy to apply so I don't really mind! I git a 5 litre tim from Trago Mill's for £20, so its cheap too.

Cheers,

Jerry

 

[SimonD]

I've used it extensively inside. It's not a stain, but behaves more like a woodsealer/breathable paint - very much like Sadolin. It can be removed with teak cleaner. Easy to apply and dries to a semi-gloss finish. Excellent stuff in my view.

 

[ccscott49]

So it's brown like, you cant see the colour of the wood through it like varnish? Thanks for the info.

 

[gjeffery]

Cetol is coloured. There are different shades, and even the "clear" is a rather warm shade. I used it extensively inside the boat. It is apparantly micropourous and suitable for outside use. I rather like it and found it good to work with.

 

[SimonD]

I use the teak colour one (I think) but you can still see the grain - it's certainly not opaque. Brings up the colour nicely in my view.

 

[Strathglass]

Re: Cetol

Colin Sikkens Cetol HLS
It is a satin basecoat and woodstain. A low build,microporous product for exterior wood preservation. Resists UV light, surface mould/algae, peeling and cracking

So much for the manufacturers blurb. It is available in various finishes including teak, rosewood,pine and mahogany.
I have used all of the above outside and inside without any problems. The staining effect is very mild but the finish seems to be very long lasting. It also seems to have good abration resistance. Certainly outlasts Dekoli? on outside woodwork. Handrails I gave four coats to still require no treatment after four years outside.
They also market a glossy clear coating to protect it but I have never used this myself so cannot comment on it.

Iain

 

[ccscott49]

Re: Cetol

Thanks Iain, I'll have alook at this stuff.