Teak toe rail repair

Kochi

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We have a split about 12 inches long in our toe rail on the starboard bow, thanks to person or persons unknown, and the wood is hanging loose. What would be the best adhesive to use? Should we use a 2 pack epoxy or just a waterproof wood glue?
 
We have a split about 12 inches long in our toe rail on the starboard bow, thanks to person or persons unknown, and the wood is hanging loose. What would be the best adhesive to use? Should we use a 2 pack epoxy or just a waterproof wood glue?
Once the wood has been thorougly degreased polyurethane glue is very good.
 
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Teak doesn't like glue so it should be decreased as advised to remove the natural oils. Then any glue for the job, including waterproof wood glue, should produce a bond stronger than the wood.
 
My toerail was badly split a long time ago, probably due to natural causes. I routed out a slot about a metre long, 15 mm wide, and let in a strip of similar wood, using polyurethane, first time I ever used it. That was something like 12 years ago and it is still in place, a little looseness at one end where the fit may not have been very good. I have recently reattached that with epoxy.

Incidentally, after some years in the Med not treating the teak at all it has lost a good deal of its thickness. In an effort to keep it going a while longer I have recently finished coating it all in International Woodskin. Much easier to use than traditional varnishes and judging by the experience of others out here will last very well. One beauty of it is that it can be recoated or repaired without sanding everything back to bare wood.
 
Thank you everyone for your help and advice. The wood hasn't come apart so the glue will have to squeezed into the gap and then clamped so although the West epoxy looks good it will probably be easier to use a polyurethane glue such as Gorilla.

To degrease we have some Epifanes thinner which Jane has used in the past before varnishing teak, should that be o.k.?
 
Thank you everyone for your help and advice. The wood hasn't come apart so the glue will have to squeezed into the gap and then clamped so although the West epoxy looks good it will probably be easier to use a polyurethane glue such as Gorilla.

To degrease we have some Epifanes thinner which Jane has used in the past before varnishing teak, should that be o.k.?
Make sure it's an oily thinner.Acetone is probably better.
 
My toerail was badly split a long time ago, probably due to natural causes. I routed out a slot about a metre long, 15 mm wide, and let in a strip of similar wood, using polyurethane, first time I ever used it. That was something like 12 years ago and it is still in place, a little looseness at one end where the fit may not have been very good. I have recently reattached that with epoxy.

Incidentally, after some years in the Med not treating the teak at all it has lost a good deal of its thickness. In an effort to keep it going a while longer I have recently finished coating it all in International Woodskin. Much easier to use than traditional varnishes and judging by the experience of others out here will last very well. One beauty of it is that it can be recoated or repaired without sanding everything back to bare wood.

I have teak toerails, 24m of them about 80mm wide, plus facing boards below them, reducing in size the farther aft it goes. I have used Sikkens for a few years easy to apply after a quick wash and light rub with a kitchen abrasive pad, but looking now like i need to remove all the old and start again, will take a look at the woodskin, so long as it has good uv properties
 
International rate its UV resistance as *** with the best varnish as *****. However, I know several people who have very good experience of it in the Aegean, one of them three years and counting. Mine looks good after four weeks:D

Looks a good alternative to Sikkens, has been very good protection but chipped and thick now so will clean off and try the woodskin. I am in the Ionion.
 
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