Teak, to epoxy and varnish or not?

[Pete735]

I've removed the teak cockpit seat slats to renovate them. I last did this 3 years ago, putting 6 coats of varnish (Deks Oljs) on them and after 2 winters 30% of varnish has lifted. I'm considering 2 options this time, either 2 coats of Sadolin (which I've got on bowsprit and after 5 years will need touching up only this year) or coating with clear epoxy and putting varnish on that for UV protection. Has anyone done the latter and are they pleased with the results?

PBO did an article on the epoxy/varnish route a couple of years ago, specifying 3 coats of epoxy and 3 coats of varnish, my concern is that slats are screwed through from the top so water will still get into wood around screw holes (even with varnish on top of screw heads?.

I've found Sadolin brilliant, but Burma teak shade I've used comes out quite orangey and when varnished seat slats do look great - I'm not a fan of natural "silvered" weathered look.
If Sadolin did a clear coating of same makeup then I would go for that - I use quick drying 6 year protection product.

I'm happy to put the work in, but will it justify the effort?

For what it's worth, my impression is that most varnish damage occurs over the winter period rather than the summer, so next winter I will cover the seats which hopefully will help.

As always, would appreciate any feedback.

 

[sailorman]

I've removed the teak cockpit seat slats to renovate them. I last did this 3 years ago, putting 6 coats of varnish (Deks Oljs) on them and after 2 winters 30% of varnish has lifted. I'm considering 2 options this time, either 2 coats of Sadolin (which I've got on bowsprit and after 5 years will need touching up only this year) or coating with clear epoxy and putting varnish on that for UV protection. Has anyone done the latter and are they pleased with the results?

PBO did an article on the epoxy/varnish route a couple of years ago, specifying 3 coats of epoxy and 3 coats of varnish, my concern is that slats are screwed through from the top so water will still get into wood around screw holes (even with varnish on top of screw heads?.

I've found Sadolin brilliant, but Burma teak shade I've used comes out quite orangey and when varnished seat slats do look great - I'm not a fan of natural "silvered" weathered look.
If Sadolin did a clear coating of same makeup then I would go for that - I use quick drying 6 year protection product.

I'm happy to put the work in, but will it justify the effort?

For what it's worth, my impression is that most varnish damage occurs over the winter period rather than the summer, so next winter I will cover the seats which hopefully will help.

As always, would appreciate any feedback.

if applying sadolins or similar use pine type colours as these wont stain & the natural wood will show through.
sikkens is a better product ( cetol )
i would use Epifanes varnish

 

[Tranona]

Sikkens Novatec/Top with pine tint in the Top will do well. Last just about indefinitely in this application with a rub down and freshen up every 3/4 years.

Personally, though I would spend some money on a cockpit cover (if practical) and leave the teak bare!

 

[narcer]

I think this is Xtiffer´s prefered method, with the epoxy impreg 120 followed by poly topcoat for uv protection.

I´ve never used impreg 120, but once epoxied a mast and then varnished over with polyurethane SP varnish and it definitely lasted longer. Only problem with that was after a few years stripping it back again where the base coat had fractured as it´s not really as flexible as varnish coating. The epoxy can take so much flexing, but like anything will eventually need stripping back completely.

 

[maxcampbell]

I'm a fan of epoxy + varnish. I've used it extensively on a kit boat I built, but if I had teak, I'd leave it bare. If you do want to go that way, though, be sure to de-grease thoroughly with acetone or similar. Epiphanes 2 pack poly is excellent varnish - very easy to use.

For screw holes, what about a touch of sikaflex or similar?

 

[oldsaltoz]

I've removed the teak cockpit seat slats to renovate them. I last did this 3 years ago, putting 6 coats of varnish (Deks Oljs) on them and after 2 winters 30% of varnish has lifted. I'm considering 2 options this time, either 2 coats of Sadolin (which I've got on bowsprit and after 5 years will need touching up only this year) or coating with clear epoxy and putting varnish on that for UV protection. Has anyone done the latter and are they pleased with the results?

PBO did an article on the epoxy/varnish route a couple of years ago, specifying 3 coats of epoxy and 3 coats of varnish, my concern is that slats are screwed through from the top so water will still get into wood around screw holes (even with varnish on top of screw heads?.

I've found Sadolin brilliant, but Burma teak shade I've used comes out quite orangey and when varnished seat slats do look great - I'm not a fan of natural "silvered" weathered look.
If Sadolin did a clear coating of same makeup then I would go for that - I use quick drying 6 year protection product.

I'm happy to put the work in, but will it justify the effort?

For what it's worth, my impression is that most varnish damage occurs over the winter period rather than the summer, so next winter I will cover the seats which hopefully will help.

As always, would appreciate any feedback.

.
G'day Pete,

Teak has a high oil content so it's very important to clean with Acetone minutes before coating, the Acetone will remove the surface oil and help the bonding.

You can thin the epoxy to improve penetration by mixing up to 30% Methylated Spirits by volume into the mixed resin, then avoid sanding by adding wet onto tacky resin till it stops soaking in, let this cure, then light sand with a 250 grit and apply at least 2 full coats of resin, again wet on tacky is ok and let it cure.

The next trick is make very sure that the varnish you plan to use has a high UV rating or the epoxy will degrade over time.

I did a laminated tiller arm about 5 years ago for a client and still looked very nice at his last lift out, mind you he dose put a canvas sock over it when he leaves the boat.

Hope this helps.

.

 

[xtiffer]

Yes, Narcer ir right, I do suggest Wood Impreg 120 ( 4 coats) followed by 5 coats of good polyurethane varnish such as Seatop PU360UV.
There is a degree of flexibility in Wood Impreg that epoxy never used to have.
For the screws just use a good bedding compound (like Dolphinite if you can get it) wrapped round the threads.
Cheers,
Chris

 

[Pete735]

Thanks for the comments, I'll go for the epoxy and good varnish I think. Good tip about the meths oldsaltoz.

Hopefully I can report back in 4 or 5 years time about the good results!

 

[Twister_Ken]

If they really are teak, leave them alone. Untreated teak copes extremely well with life outdoors. Just clean them, splash on a bit of Boracol (anti-fungus) and leave well alone.

 

[Chris_Robb]

Sikkens Novatec/Top with pine tint in the Top will do well. Last just about indefinitely in this application with a rub down and freshen up every 3/4 years.

Personally, though I would spend some money on a cockpit cover (if practical) and leave the teak bare!

Another vote for Novatec/top - brilliant stuff - however I would not want anything other than bare teak in the cockpit.