Teak or Iroko?

[al.carpenter]

I used a half round teak moulding from Howells and used temporary screws while the glue cured then removed the screws and bored out the holes for matching plugs.

??? Are you sure you did not first bore a hole (with a Fostner bit of the size of your tappered plug), then a prehole or shank hole for a temporary screw while the glue sets and then plugged the hole after removal of said screw...???

Drilling a plug hole over a screw "hole"... bad idea if you want to do a "clean" job. Thought I'd mention it just in case someone follows the advice word for word... Cheers

 

[Tranona]

??? Are you sure you did not first bore a hole (with a Fostner bit of the size of your tappered plug), then a prehole or shank hole for a temporary screw while the glue sets and then plugged the hole after removal of said screw...???

Drilling a plug hole over a screw "hole"... bad idea if you want to do a "clean" job. Thought I'd mention it just in case someone follows the advice word for word... Cheers

No, because the moulding is less than 6mm thick so there is not room for a screw head - nor is it needed. The screw is only there to clamp the moulding on while the glue cures. In fact I use a pan head screw with a large washer to spread the clamping load.

Of course if the wood were thicker and the screw was needed for strength then I would use a proper stepped bit. Alternatively I should put a pair of sash cramps on my Father Christmas list but I can only think of 3 or 4 jobs in the last 30 years when they would have been better than the methods I actually used.

I can assure that the finished job is "clean" and you would not be able to tell how it was done. The plug is cut from the same moulding so the grain matches and once satin varnished is just about invisible. Appearances count - even in a Bavaria!

 

[al.carpenter]

well done

well done then...
A good alternative to the sash clamp is the "tourniquet espagnol", (in english I do not know the name, "spanish turnsomething"?) consisting of a rope or belt under and over which you twist a stick and the shortening action applies pressure on the pads you have put on the workpiece. Amazing the pressure you can achieve.(A bit like a garrot applied to a bleeding member or the elastic band a lovely blond nurse in her loose fitting blouse wraps around your impressive biceps... in order to rise your blood pressure before taking 25cc of your blood, like if you needed it seeing the rate of your heart beats after a glimpse down her.... but I am getting lost here and drifting on an off subject path....)
Did not mean to doubt your skills, just mentioning how I do it myself. Cheers. Al

 

[Tranona]

Spanish Windlass is the English term. Used it when putting new rubbing strakes and toe rails on my Eventide. Can get quite exciting as you wind them in!

Having owned a wooden boat for over 30 years (the same one) and not being a skilled craftsman I rely on modern materials and techniques so epoxy and polyurethane adhesives are very important in my "tool chest".

 

[al.carpenter]

thanks

Spanish Windlass is the English term. Used it when putting new rubbing strakes and toe rails on my Eventide. Can get quite exciting as you wind them in!

Having owned a wooden boat for over 30 years (the same one) and not being a skilled craftsman I rely on modern materials and techniques so epoxy and polyurethane adhesives are very important in my "tool chest".

Hi again and thanks for naming the clamping thing. Will go to bed having learned something tonight.
From an Eventide to a Bavaria? A bit of a downgrade isn't it? Only jocking...
As long as you are happy, nothing else matters.
I just thought when seeing the horrible job on the carter 33 pictures that I would let go a bit of steam off as I am so often frustrated when having to repair boats that should not have to be repaired if the job had been done within the rules of the art in the first place... in my opinion, a Huntsman, Swordsman, Huntress or other classics of the like should be repaired respecting their origins like for like and to anyone with an eye for details, it is where the difference between an original and a not so original craft lies. Especially when in the Hamble area, where they were born... Fair winds. Al

 

[burgundyben]

So for a glue choice, what about Gorilla glue?

"Gorilla glue from America is incredibly strong, 100% water resistant and the finest all purpose polyurethane wood glue available today. It will not freeze and does not require mixing. It never becomes brittle with age , will never freeze and will not expand or contract in the glue joint. It's unique formula means that you only apply the glue to one surface , so your glue lasts twice as long. You can even glue exotic timbers that are oily without surface preparation.Non hardened glue can be removed with thinners and once hardened the glue is totally solvent resistant. Even the moisture in the timber or air actually causes the glue to bond and cure. Totally environmentally friendly Gorilla Glue contains no additives or solvents. This is America's leading glue for woodworkers and cabinetmakers"

Or Balcotan 100?

"Waterproof
Temperature tolerant
Flexible and tough
One component foaming polyurethane adhesive
Expands in contact with moisture in the air.
Glues all timber, woodfibre boards, plywood, MDF, cork, cement boards and synthetic resin sheets
Bonds rigid insulating materials such as polystyrene and polyurethane
Strong"

What do we think?

 

[Tranona]

Hi again and thanks for naming the clamping thing. Will go to bed having learned something tonight.
From an Eventide to a Bavaria? A bit of a downgrade isn't it? Only jocking...

Still own both, although Eventide just laid up for its second refit in time for its 50th! Ownership of opposites is perfectly rational - I have a big diesel Ford and a Morgan. Horses for courses as we say here.