Teak Oil or Linseed Oil???

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tarik

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Just got back from a lovely week end on the boat scraping off years of Sandolin
from the rubbing strakes and wheelhouse surround, must be about 100' Have received lots of very conflicting 'advice' from other experts around the boat yard. I dont want to paint or varnish the wood
but apply some form of protective oil. Have been told that Teak Oil with 50% Turpsd for the first Coat is the answer and then gradually reduce the Turps to about 10%/90%
mix with a final coat of pure Teak Oil. Had similar advice but Linseed Oil was suggested.
What does the Team think ????

As ever many thanks for all answers


David
 
teak oil

Hi David

Any oil used on teak gives a great finish to start with as it really brings out the grain, but the problem with oils is that they tend to get darker and more sticky with each coating, attracting dirt. Its also a great place for the organics to grow.

There are a few other threads on the subject, but it really boils down to how you will use the wood.. for looking at.... for constant use... or somewhere in the middle.. If no grip or wear is going to be expected then perhaps the best form of UV protection whilst offering the best finish would be best ... lots of natural oil in teak, varnishing (display teak) is poss the best route..
 
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Assuming it is teak then leave it bare if you don't want to apply a finish. Teak Oil or Linseed oil will stay sticky and attract dirt and need forever refinishing.

If you want a long lasting durable good looking finish use Sikkens Novatech/Novatop after thoroughly degreasing with acetone. Easy to apply, microporous finish which just needs freshening up occasionally.
 
I used oxalic acid to clean, then clear water seal - Thomson's (check it is the stuff for wood) or Cementone (cheaper). Previous owner did the same and most of the teak is just fine (20 years old!). I did have to fill a couple of cracks in larger pieces after a hot June out of the water.

I am gradually getting rid of all the Sikkens - This was the 'pine', the only non-horrible shade IMO, but it goes too dark over time for my liking. It is less fussy to appy then varnish though, which is good. Most going to white paint, some to bare wood (handrails, bench seats), some of the trim to varnish (at the other half's insistence that we keep *some* - or I'd just paint it white), but that's a gradual process.
 
I haven't got a lot of wood - and no teak - on Jissel, but I have cockpit locker covers which have several coats of le Tonkinois on and usually last a couple of years before I give 'em a quick rub down and a fresh coat or two. On marine ply & "mahogany" (she's nearly 40, so it may be real) it doesn't seem to flake off like ordinary varnish.

I also have a rubbing stake that gets rubbed by fender lines, so I need an easy-fix finish on the anonymous, rather dark wood, so there and on the grab rails on the cabin roof, I use a Cuprinol teak garden furniture treatment. No hours of sanding, just a wipe-on couple of coats every year or so. Seems to do what it says on the tin.
 
I've used boiled linseed on interior furniture I've made and at one time used it on boat trim but it does attract muck; cheap but now superceded. Teak oil is better as it does dry off. There are some other mixtures : I've got a tin of Deks Olje which works OK - maybe it's just some vegetable oils with cunning additives. Point about oils is easy to repair where it rubs through.
 
teak oil

I have some teak decking and was thinking of putting teak oil on it. However, I am in Croatia, where there are some pretty big gin palaces looked after (and I mean really cleaned and polished) by a couple of guys. On talking to them they told me under no circumstances use any oil at all. just clean with a propriatory cleaner. these guys do nothing but look after mega yachts so I figure they know what they are talking about and don't want to waste a lot of energry unnecessarily.
 
Neither

Try Danish Oil.
Quick and easy to apply - needs to be maintained but doesn't tend to make the wood go dark and doesn't leave the sticky/oily surface which teak and linseed oils tend to do - as stated by several posters.

The Croatian boat cleaners are a bit short term - wood does need to be fed - especially when its your own boat and you are intending keeping her a while!
 
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A second vote for Danish oil, we use it ont he rubbing strake and grab handles, anywhere that gets rubbed too much to think of using varnish. It doesn't look as pretty as varnish, but then if that worried you, you'd have bitten the bullet and varnished it already.
 
Simple. Visit the Onward Trading Company website (their in Swanwick near Hamble) and read their three part teak care system. They do online sales or mail order.
SEMCO is not an oil that goes patchy and attracts dirt, and its not a varnish that needs endless attention. Its simply brilliant stuff as long as you apply it a couple of times a year.
 
teak sealer

I have used teak oil/varnish/sikkens etc.,
imho the best one i have tried and still use is Teak sealer by wessex. They sell there cleaning products in a 3 part system first the cleaner then the brightener when its all dry a couple of coats of the sealer will last the entire season. Also it doesn't give it a stain or a varnish type surface that will peel, it sinks right into the teak.

hope this helps,

bob
 
I recently saw on a gardening program the suggestion that cheap cooking oil is just as good as expensive teak oil for garden furniture.
 
Apply Linseed oil at 50/50 with white spirit with a soft cotton rag for a couple of coats to get soaked in then reduce to 100% over the next 3-4 coats. I clean down with a wash of acetone before applying 1 or 2 coats at the beginning of March/April good for a season - if its starts to dry out give it another coat of neat stuff.

Looks good, weathers well and Isn't sticky. I've been using it on a cockpit table that's used for every meal April to September then as often as possible when warm and dry, never had a problem with any organic growth.

Better than varnish, cheaper than varnish, less work than varnish and doesn't chip!
 
I have treated teak trim on a Drascombe with linseed oil for many years and never found any of the stickiness that people mention. It looked good, was very easy to apply and clean up where spilt/dripped and always cured to a non-sticky finish very quickly. I used to oil the woodwork just for the pleasue of doing it, which I can't say I have ever done for varnish. I even oiled the softwood floorboars, which came up a treat, with a nice aged look.
 
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