exapp
Well-Known Member
Wots the difference between €15 teak oil from a chandlery with a yachtie brand a traditional DIY teak oil for €4 from B&Q....yea yea I know €11 but any real difference?
Exapp.
Exapp.
Teak Oil - Chandlery Vs B&Q
- Thread starter exapp
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ccscott49
Well-Known Member
No difference, they are both crap and will eventually turn your teak black.
lenseman
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Interesting answer . . . but why does it turn it black, does the oil degrade in UV or what happens? Once it has turned black can it be changed back to looking good again?
How do you then keep Teak wood looking nice on a yacht . . . cue a timber specialist to answer that question. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
How do you then keep Teak wood looking nice on a yacht . . . cue a timber specialist to answer that question. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
ccscott49
Well-Known Member
I have a lot of teak, the 57' decks I just keep clean with salt/fresh water and soap, with one deep clean a year, with wessex chemicals stuff. The rest of the cabin/wheelhouse sides etc. is varnished.
some of my cleats are bare teak, which I just clean occasionally, with soap and water.
I guess I've been dealing with teak now for about 35 years, so do know a thing or two about it.
The teak oil does go black with uv and needs sanding to bring it back to teak again, then you can oil it again and then sand some more of your precious (expensive) teak off again, until theres none left. Basically keep it clean and leave it alone, or varnish it.
I'm sure somebody will be along shortly with stories of ceetol etc, which are basically thin stains and best for use on garden sheds and fences.
You could also paint it, my hull is teak planked and it's painted.
some of my cleats are bare teak, which I just clean occasionally, with soap and water.
I guess I've been dealing with teak now for about 35 years, so do know a thing or two about it.
The teak oil does go black with uv and needs sanding to bring it back to teak again, then you can oil it again and then sand some more of your precious (expensive) teak off again, until theres none left. Basically keep it clean and leave it alone, or varnish it.
I'm sure somebody will be along shortly with stories of ceetol etc, which are basically thin stains and best for use on garden sheds and fences.
You could also paint it, my hull is teak planked and it's painted.
srp
Well-Known Member
Can't disagree with what Englander has to say.
Use an oil of some sort if you're prepared to do it every couple of months, use varnish if you're prepared to do it every six months, or follow his soap and water routine. The only thing is add is to avoid the use of a pressure washer to clean the old teak as it damages the surface of the wood quite badly - I'd use one of the teak cleaners first, followed by glasspaper if needed to do the initial restoration and remove the black oxidised oil and dirt.
Use an oil of some sort if you're prepared to do it every couple of months, use varnish if you're prepared to do it every six months, or follow his soap and water routine. The only thing is add is to avoid the use of a pressure washer to clean the old teak as it damages the surface of the wood quite badly - I'd use one of the teak cleaners first, followed by glasspaper if needed to do the initial restoration and remove the black oxidised oil and dirt.
Pasarell
Well-Known Member
I can't remember the exact blend of oils that go into Teak Oil (back from 2 weeks sailing this morning!) but the difference between cheap and expensive Teak Oil is basically white spirit. There's a lot more of it in cheap oil! I would never touch the B&Q type oil but then I don't oil the teak on the boat anyway
A
Anonymous
Guest
I buy the expensive cleaner but it smells just like detergent, looks like detergent and feels like detergent (much like Teepol, of old). Is that all it is? I buy oxalic crystals, and that seems fine for brightening.
MAURICE
Well-Known Member
Agree with Englander just throw salt water over the deck this will keep the alge at bay. DO NOT scrub with a brush as this will lift off the soft parts of the teak. If it is very dirty then use oxalic acid leave for a short while then hose off with ccpious amounts of water using a fine spray from the hose. The decks will look light and clean and still retain the all important grip. finish off with buckets of clean salt water.
jimbaerselman
Well-Known Member
More usually, teak oil is boiled linseed oil, thinned with an aromatic solvent rather than white spirit. The solvent improves its penetration. Great for garden furniture, but probably best avoided in salt water soaked applications, where it seems to act as good algae food!
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davidfox
Well-Known Member
Englander says it all inc the wessex chemicals advice, do not be tempted with teak oil you will regret it
burgundyben
Well-Known Member
What about if I did my cockpit teak in Rustins Danish Oil?
My cockpit is covered over most of the time, only exposed when we are on board.
Its a motorboat, so unlike a sailing boat there is no need to be walking about heeled over or when the boat is lurching around, I'm not overly worried about non slip properites.
I have considered Epifanes varnish also.
We have Rustins in the kitchen on the oak worktops, its been very good, even in the wet areas around the sink.
My cockpit is covered over most of the time, only exposed when we are on board.
Its a motorboat, so unlike a sailing boat there is no need to be walking about heeled over or when the boat is lurching around, I'm not overly worried about non slip properites.
I have considered Epifanes varnish also.
We have Rustins in the kitchen on the oak worktops, its been very good, even in the wet areas around the sink.
robmcg
Well-Known Member
I use starbrite 'Tropical Teal oil and Sealer'. Lasts all season, doesn't go black and gives a nice woody appearance. Surprised not more people use it.
JerryHawkins
Well-Known Member
Starbrite Tropical
I do! It's the best I've found (not to be confused with their 'standard' teak oil, it must be the 'tropical' version). Two coats has lasted two years for me. Fading a bit now, but a very light sand and a couple of new coats will last another couple of years.
I do! It's the best I've found (not to be confused with their 'standard' teak oil, it must be the 'tropical' version). Two coats has lasted two years for me. Fading a bit now, but a very light sand and a couple of new coats will last another couple of years.
burgundyben
Well-Known Member
Good to know, but its blimmin expensive.
davidfox
Well-Known Member
We all agree dont use it.