Teak grating repair

Bodach na mara

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When I lifted the grating in the cockpit yesterday, sticking my fingers through the holes as I usually do, one of the cross slats came away in my fingers. On investigation, I found that most of them are now loose. Fortunately the longitudinal straps that lie under the cross ones are still fastened.

It seems that these straps are not fixed in place with any form of fastener, just adhesive of some sort. Does anyone know what type of glue to use to stick them back?
 
Depends on the timber. Balcotan is pretty good, gap filling and doesn't mind the damp. If not, maybe a thickened epoxy? Make sure it's all clean and dry for epoxy and the surface is warm if possible. Especially if it's teak, which is always a sod to glue!
 
If you find a glue that works, please post it on here! I've tried epoxies, Balcotan, and a host of different makes over the last 15 years and nothing seems to last. Despite thoroughly cleaning out the old glue and properly preparing the grooves for the lastest effort, nothing LASTS. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

The last lot of epoxy, done two years ago, is holding on about 50% of the slats I glued, but I reckon they'll all be loose by the end of this season. It's a real PITA!! /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

Sorry not to be able to give a sparkling reply, but neither I nor any my friends have got the answer -YET! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
One assumes they were originally an interference fit then. So would it be worth lining the slots with some thin stuff and gently tapping the slats home? Make sure it is thin though, you don't want to pop off any castellations.
 
I repaired mine with countersunk brass screws (underneath so they don't show) and I don't get any problems now. Occasionally check the screws but that's a once a year job!
 
Our teak grating is a little different to the more common, full thickness slats with thin laths across them. The cross slats are rebated into the frame and the laths are tacked onto them with brass panel pins.
They don't hold either, I thought you should know in case you are tempted to try. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Small brass c/s screws, No. 4 x 1/4" would probably do the trick.
 
A few years ago I offered to repair the gratings in friends Berwick because a number of slats were coming loose, and I had a load of water proof glue left over from another job.
Obviously very similar to those in your Renown but incredibly badly made I subsequently discovered.

In the end I labelled all the bits and pulled them apart completely.
I reckon the joints were cut by the apprentice on a bad day, they were appalling by any standard.

You'll need a glue with really good gap filling qualities !
 
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I repaired mine with countersunk brass screws (underneath so they don't show) and I don't get any problems now. Occasionally check the screws but that's a once a year job!

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Yes, I've done that on the main members (but using s/s screws) and they're holding fine. But it's those comparatively thin blighters that I can't seem to get right!
 
Sikaflex em' together, once youve cleaned em' up, not caulking stuff, the adhesive stuff, works a treat, thats what mine are done with, three years now and not a loose bit in evidence!
 
If you use Epoxy on teak(boatbuiling 'poxy not araldite from the DIY store) douse well with acetone 10 mins prior, prime with unthickened and then apply a mix with microfibers - per manufacturer's instructions. Should then last for ever.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions folks. As the season has now arrived, the grating will just need to survive for a while till I can find time to sort it. It is of the type with the lower strips full thickness and the cross strips half thickness. I think the Sikaflex idea sounds most promissing, but I also wondered about the alleged gap-filling qualities of Balcotan.

Thanks again and I will report back when the deed is done.
 
this is what I use on all my woodwork including Iroko which is simular to teak with a high oil content.

I built my ply stem head tender and the only screws I used was where the bottom panel joined the stem.

Note the warning about getting on your hands, the only to get it off your hands is with sand paper
 
If it white it sounds the same. How much does the Gorilla Glue cost in the UK, Alcolin costs about 100 ZAR per 310 ml tube in South Africa
 
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