Teak deck screw holes

[LittleShip]

And don't try fixing bungs with varnish, that's old ways and not suitable for exterior fixing when there are several much better products.

I use epoxy to refit mine.

Tom

 

[chinita]

And don't try fixing bungs with varnish, that's old ways and not suitable for exterior fixing when there are several much better products.

I use epoxy to refit mine.

Tom

Fine, use what you want. I re-plugged a 46ft teak deck using varnish and I am not aware of any issues as a result.

 

[chinita]

I can't visualise this working - the forstner bit drills a flat-bottomed hole, so it won't get below the top of the screwhead.
.

I agree that you want to avoid collateral damage to the screwheads but it sounds as if his screwheads are knackered already having tried to drill them out.

 

[pvb]

I agree that you want to avoid collateral damage to the screwheads but it sounds as if his screwheads are knackered already having tried to drill them out.

But I can't see the point of using a forstner bit.

 

[chinita]

Because the bit is guided by the circular rim as opposed to the centre. A Lip and Spur drill bit (as an example) will merely drill on to the screw head. If he uses a bit of, say, 10mm where his original plug is 8mm he will drill a 10mm hole thus giving more space to work on removing the old screw. He then fills with a 10mm plug.

The bit, in effect, acts a little like as plug cutter but not nearly as aggressive.

The Forstner bit will, eventually, lose it's pointed centre but that actually aids the process and, for a few quid to replace, makes little difference.

He could also, if he wishes, nip and blunt the centre of the bit.

 

[pvb]

Because the bit is guided by the circular rim as opposed to the centre. A Lip and Spur drill bit (as an example) will merely drill on to the screw head. If he uses a bit of, say, 10mm where his original plug is 8mm he will drill a 10mm hole thus giving more space to work on removing the old screw. He then fills with a 10mm plug.

The bit, in effect, acts a little like as plug cutter but not nearly as aggressive.

The Forstner bit will, eventually, lose it's pointed centre but that actually aids the process and, for a few quid to replace, makes little difference.

He could also, if he wishes, nip and blunt the centre of the bit.

But the forstner bit, as I said before, drills a flat-bottomed hole. So it can't get lower than the top of the screwhead. How would that help in removing the old screw??

 

[chinita]

Yes, I know it is designed to drill a flat bottomed hole, and very effective it is too.

As I said, it gives more space to operate in if you use a larger bit than the original plug. Of course, you are going to drill in to the screws to some extent but the aim, I think, should be to establish a clean and fresh environment for a new (oversize) plug.

I carried out this exercise earlier this year when I had to remove a dozen brass screws from a chart table fitting. The screw slots just melted as I tried to remove them. I drilled around them using a Forstner bit and (again with difficulty) managed to remove the remains. Prior to this I tried every means to extract the screws and, in the end, used a small mole wrench to get them out.

I am not suggesting that this is a simple solution, just an option to try. It worked for me and the original screws are now replaced with bronze and plugged.

I don't know of any other bit which would circumvent the problem of the screw head, it is just a matter of damage limitation.

 

[LittleShip]

Fine, use what you want.

Thank you for you approval.....

Tom.

 

[chinita]

Not an approval, just an acknowledgment.

I was taught to use varnish rather than glue during my IBTC Wooden Boatbuilding Course where they have plugged hundreds of teak decks with this method. But, as you say this is 'old ways'.

Anyway, what do they know.........