Teak Deck Re-Caulking - Some Clarifications?

Tim Good

Tim Good

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Ok I know there are many threads on this but I wanted to ask a few Q's.

1. I have began removing the old caulk. Inside the first 4-5mm channel there is a smaller 1mm channel beneath. Do I also need to scrape this out? Getting the upper layer out is easier but removing from this tiny channel below is a nightmare.

Channel where I left the caulk in:
10424253_10152660223058162_5043722412342584022_n.jpg


Channel where I took cleaned it out. Nightmare:
10599294_10152660223053162_6225089659781600391_n.jpg


2. If yes to the above what is a good technique for the smaller channel?

3. What sort of depth should I be looking for in the main channel to know if I need to router it out deeper or not.

4. People rave about the Fein Multimaster but there are many cheaper and similar tools from good brands. There are also many replacement bits that say they fit Fein, Black and Decker etc so you'd think the fitments are relatively universal. The question is will the Teak blades that Fein make, fit the cheaper models?

5. Some people talk about a strip of tape at the bottom of the seam? Why do you do this? Surely it would make adhesion less by only sticking to the sides.... and if tape was put down then this would defeat the point of removing caulk from the tiny middle channel as per point 1 / 2.
 
The narrow gap at the bottom is there because the planks can move so they do not touch eachother. The breaker tape is used because you don't want to stick the main caulking to the bottom, only to the sides of the planks, although with the gap between the planks at the bottom that you have there is probably less reliance on the breaker tape.

Looks like your deck is bonded to the substrate with polyurethane adhesive so it will move relative to the substrate and between each plank. The caulking in the seams expands and contracts to allow for any movement.
 
Agree - narrow gap in between planks is for movement. Ignore it.

With regard to breaker tape - the idea is to allow the caulk to stretch between the vertical sides of the seam. In theory if it is bonded at the bottom this can result in it tearing. When I recaulked Rumbuster a couple of years ago I decided not to use breaker tape. In essence I was being lazy as it looked like a lot of work. But my self justification was that tape hadn't been used originally and the deck had been fine for 50 years and that movement might be more of a problem in hot climates but less so in Scotland. In addition I felt that getting the base of the seam in a condition where tape would be ease to apply / could stick would be virtually impossible. I was worried that the poorly applied tape might compromise the job. I didn't tape the seams and haven't had a problem so far !

I am a member of the multimaster appreciation society. I use a Worx lookalike that can use the Fein caulk blade with an adapter. A great tool and I wouldn't contemplate redoing a deck without one. You mention using a router to increase seam depth. suggest this is very hard to do as the router can very quickly walk into the plank body and cause massive damage. Also hard to get into confined areas because of the base plate. I used a diamond sector blade on the worx tool to 'grind' the seam deeper - worked very well and easy to control. Seams should be as deep as they are wide ie square section.

Hope the job goes well !

Martin
 
As an owner of a Fein and tried several look alikes, but they are not as good. Most of the multitude of Fein tools will not fit them. The vibration whilst using any multitool is a massive factor. The Fein has the best insulation for your hands. Even whilst using mine for days on end in the spring, my hands started to dislike being vibrated.

There are so many good attachments you can use and I have found some wonderful unusual uses. I needed to fit a new Eberspacher control unit to the main bulkhead, but the electrical joining block was almost as large as the panel. It cut a small rectangular hole through a 20mm plywood bulhead in a matter of minutes - it would have taken at least half an hour if I had to drill the corners, saw the sides and then file to fit. The Fein did it in one. Also found compounding the gel coat, it was ideal to get right against fittings. Then I removed some Treadmaster using a wide flat chisel and then polished the gel to a high shine to fit some extra genoa winches.

The recommendation is pay for a good tool and live with it for the rest of your life. Buy a cheap tool and keep replacing it. The choice is yours, but I never regret buying it.
 
Tranona said:
The narrow gap at the bottom is there because the planks can move so they do not touch eachother. The breaker tape is used because you don't want to stick the main caulking to the bottom, only to the sides of the planks, although with the gap between the planks at the bottom that you have there is probably less reliance on the breaker tape.

Looks like your deck is bonded to the substrate with polyurethane adhesive so it will move relative to the substrate and between each plank. The caulking in the seams expands and contracts to allow for any movement.
Click to expand...

Which have you got... the 250w or the 350w?

I notice you can get the 250w with the basic manual fitment (as opposed to their 'Quick' fit version) for only about £130 now. Given it only comes with about 5 attachments but looks like you can buy a 10 pack range of aftermarket attachments and sanding pads for £20. The teak blade I suppose you just have to shell out for as no one else does anything like it.
 
northcave said:
Which have you got... the 250w or the 350w?

I notice you can get the 250w with the basic manual fitment (as opposed to their 'Quick' fit version) for only about £130 now. Given it only comes with about 5 attachments but looks like you can buy a 10 pack range of aftermarket attachments and sanding pads for £20. The teak blade I suppose you just have to shell out for as no one else does anything like it.
Click to expand...

I think you were asking that to me. Have a look at the main Fein web site for the best information about the multitool.
http://www.fein-uk.co.uk/en_uk/multimaster/

I bought this set from here
http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/... Kit In Case 240V 59 Accs Plus 6 Extra Blades
and later added lots of extra bits.

This is the next model down with less attachments.
http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/... Quickstart Kit In Case 240V With Accessories

The basic machine with only a couple of attachments is
http://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/...ultitalent Start Kit In Case With Accessories

Basically the more you spend the more you get in attachments. Part of the problem with few attachments is to work out what you need to add. The bigger sets have discounted attachments, so work out cheaper than buying all the bits later. The few people who have tried my multitool were very impressed by the amount of power compared to their budget machines. You have also heard the same elsewhere, so I think you are now on the right track to buying a Fein - you will not regret it.
 
martinaskey said:
Agree - narrow gap in between planks is for movement. Ignore it.

With regard to breaker tape - the idea is to allow the caulk to stretch between the vertical sides of the seam. In theory if it is bonded at the bottom this can result in it tearing. When I recaulked Rumbuster a couple of years ago I decided not to use breaker tape. In essence I was being lazy as it looked like a lot of work. But my self justification was that tape hadn't been used originally and the deck had been fine for 50 years and that movement might be more of a problem in hot climates but less so in Scotland. In addition I felt that getting the base of the seam in a condition where tape would be ease to apply / could stick would be virtually impossible. I was worried that the poorly applied tape might compromise the job. I didn't tape the seams and haven't had a problem so far !

I am a member of the multimaster appreciation society. I use a Worx lookalike that can use the Fein caulk blade with an adapter. A great tool and I wouldn't contemplate redoing a deck without one. You mention using a router to increase seam depth. suggest this is very hard to do as the router can very quickly walk into the plank body and cause massive damage. Also hard to get into confined areas because of the base plate. I used a diamond sector blade on the worx tool to 'grind' the seam deeper - worked very well and easy to control. Seams should be as deep as they are wide ie square section.

Hope the job goes well !

Martin
Click to expand...

I have a Fein multi-tool and it has proved a god send on many occasions, and not just boats. But just for clarification, is the "teak" tool the 4mm hook with a sharpened edge? and the what is the diamond sector blade? Sorry for my ignorance but I also have calking problems looming...
 
Concerto said:
You have also heard the same elsewhere, so I think you are now on the right track to buying a Fein - you will not regret it.
Click to expand...

I'm going to go an measure my seam tonight and order a Fein. I haven't found it cheaper any where else that on FFX so thanks!!!!

Will probably ignore the tape also.
 
I have a Mcallister multi tool from B&Q which comes complete with adaptor plates to take Fein, Bosch etc fittings. Whilst it may not be of the highest quality for the amount of work I needed to do removing the caulk from our decks, it was great. Word of warning, I started to use at max speed but found it somewhat uncontrollable. Using about the middle of the speed range turned it into a magic tool with Fein caulking hook. It removes the caulk in long ribbons with very little effort. However, this is on an AWB where the teak is just strips glued onto the GRP and therefore a hard surface to cut down to. With wood all through, you will need to take care just to cut out the caulk out and not gouge the lower wood.
 
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