Teak deck question

Fergus

Fergus

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I have pretty substantial thickness but some of the screw heads are showing - too shallow to put pellets in. Can I countersink them a little deeper (say 2mm)? I also thought of using flat heads instead of dome head screws to make a bit more depth..
 
Dome heads are supposed to show, that's why they're domed.

My small experience with teak decks however is that they are screwed using standard brass csk screws and then a teak plug is glued in on top. These are then shaved and sanded to deck level.
 
Yes, you could sink them a bit lower. It's also possible to buy special low-profile screws - for example, Hallberg Rassy offer them in their online parts store.
 
A lot depends on the thickness of teak remaining and what the teak is laid on. If you do this you should counterbore, not countersink. You will then be able to fit a suitable teak plug on top.

Screws should be flat head. I have never seen domed screws on a deck before - but there is always a first time and I am sure someone around here has! /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
Yep, pull the screws, use a countersink, the right size for a new plug, rescrew with countersunk A4 stainless (use slotted head, not philips or posi) or bronze screws if on a wooden boat) and ten epoxy in new pellets, I'm just in the process of doing just that, with about 4000 of them. Brass screws?? I dont think so!
 
Why counterbore? Surely if you countersink the screw beds down on the countersink, not possible in a counterbore, without a lot more screwing pressure. But of course, different strokes for different folks. I use a 1/2" countersink and 1/2" tapered plugs.
 
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(use slotted head, not philips or posi)

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That's interesting. Why do you say that?

I ask because I tend to prefer cross-headed screws because (1) the bit has less tendency to slip off of the head and (2) there is no need to worry about having the slots in line (on exposed work).
 
As far as I am aware the purpose of the countersink is to sink the screw so that the head is just level with the surface it is being screwed into - but not below the surface. I have also been taught to countersink to a certain depth and leave the screw head just proud of the surface so that the last 'turn' brings it flush.

OTOH a counterbore will allow the screw to drop into the bored hole (the shank size) leaving a nice, neat 'barrel' into which you place your plug.

Counterbores (along with their plug cutters) come in screw gauges, not in mm. It is therefore possible to get a very good match in terms of the 'barrel' and plug. On internal fittings I never need to glue, the fit is so tight. This means less hassle if you need to get to the screw again.

Downside is that good counterbore/plug cutting sets are difficult to come by. Instead I have used lip & spur drills and an appropriately sized plug cutter - tapered or not, doesn't really matter.
 
Ah! I now see, you are talking combination screw counterbores, which are countersinks, pilot, clearance and counterbores, I understand now. I use parallel sided countersinks, wic are great when there is already a ole there, to allow it to follow, I have countersinks in a multitude of sizes and plug cutters to suit all of them, up to 30mm. If its new construction, I tend to use lip and spur drills for the counterbores. trying to find new screw conbinations now is hard.
 
Hello.

Cutting through all of the chatter which is going a little bit off topic, (or at least, starting to spiral round its navel) yes you can do them a little bit deeper if you still have enough teak to provide bite on the head of the screw. I'd use silicon bronze screws. Yes, they are more expensive than brass, but we are only talking a few quid, unless your deck is as big as the Queen Mary's, and they'll last a lot longer. Glue the plugs in with a good waterproof glue, with gap filling properties. Any splits in the deck at the holes, and you ought to either: drill a larger hole/fit a bigger plug or, for big splits, scarf in a strip. With care, this will not be noticeable unless you know you've done it.
 
My understanding is that dome head screws allow the easy removal of the plugs by tapping the side of the plug which then "rotates" around the screw head. The current scews are S/S cross-heads. I really need to minimise any further loss of depth which is why I'm thinking of using flat-headed screws. I also understand that the best fixing to use is a dab of varnish and in no circs to use any kind of glue!
 
First the screw- use flathead by all means. The Round head screw thing I'm sure is a "builder's yarn". If you have to chop out a plug again its very easily done with a narrow chisel or even a screwdriver.

As for using glue, you want to stop the water getting below the plug and causing rot. This will be minimal anyway if you line up the grain of the plug with the decking and the plugs a tight fit, but theres the chance that the deck will squeeze the plugs out again over time. As has been said, don't use epoxy, but I found Balcotan very effective. I think varnish, slightly thinned so it penetrates the wood, can also work as a sealant, but I'm not sure how good a glue it would be.
Hope this helps.
 
Since much boatwork involves drilling neat holes, using screws and adhesives etc. I think this is a highly relevant thread which has not gone off topic at all.

Excellent plug-cutting tools and drills are available in a good range of qualities from Axminster Power Tools (axminster.co.uk). For what it's worth I prefer to use a forstner bit to drill holes for plugs, as there is little or no breakout around the hole. But to enlarge an existing hole a step drill is ideal, as it self-centres and produces a very clean cut. Axminster do a set of three for under a tenner which have given me excellent results in my restoration project.
 
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