Teak Deck Problems (In Dartmouth)

CaptainBob

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All this hot dry weather has dried out my teak deck and quite a few of the lines of caulking seem to have split and the teak moves now up and down a little under pressure of foot.

Should I have been keeping the deck doused with saltwater?

Is it too late now or is it re-caulkable?

Any teak professionals recommended in the Dartmouth area (preferably who have a boat, we're not in a marina)?

TY!
 
I have teak decks laid on GRP - doubt its the temperature etc. otherwise boats in the tropics would be forever having trouble.

I occasionally get the odd couple of planks that need reseating - I think is more due to water getting underneath and freezing.

After a time the caulking does tend to contract and not adhere to the teak so well leaving a gap that water can get down.

Personally I would think its water that has caused the problem rather than the sun.

Must admit I now spend quite a bit of time making sure the decks are well sealed - does seem to help.

Teak decks are wonderful and a pain at the same time. I wouldn't be without them !
 
Ooops! Sounds as though there's been some seepage through the caulking, followed by a frost or two freezing water under the planks, which has lifted some off.. Also sounds as though the planks were screwed on rather than glued (much less seepage if they're glued).

Also sounds as though nearly 12 years or more have passed since the deck was last throroughly worked over. You have to think of them as having a 15 year life. Expensive things to keep up, though I love 'em.
 
All this hot dry weather has dried out my teak deck and quite a few of the lines of caulking seem to have split and the teak moves now up and down a little under pressure of foot.

Should I have been keeping the deck doused with saltwater?

Is it too late now or is it re-caulkable?

Any teak professionals recommended in the Dartmouth area (preferably who have a boat, we're not in a marina)?

TY!

Try Guy Savage, he has an old yawl called Saunterer moored somewhere in the trot moorings on the Kingswear side. I didnt see her this evening but you cant miss the bat as its about fifty foot flush deck and very old and pretty.
 
Regrettably you are seeing the beginnings of a very expensive job. Once the caulking goes (and probably you have got a few bungs poipping up as well) as Jim says the deck is getting to the end of its life. If it has not been recaulked before then you may get away with the "cheap" job of cleaning out all the old caulking and re seaming. Not a lot of materials but mega man hours. If it is seriously lifting then you are into mega man hours and mega materials.

You need to get an expert in to tell you what can be done.

Do a search on teak decks on here for all the gory details.
 
Phoned Guy and he was stood on my deck telling me my options within 2 minutes of the call. Some of which are within budget and sound like a great way forward. Thank you!!!

Some of which are within budget and sound like a great way forward.

Hi capt'n

Glad you have found a solution so come on dont keep us in suspense explain all .
BTW nice to "catch up" the other day .

Terry
 
Nice to see you too! Are you back in Plymouth now, or still planning to come back to Dartmouth?

I can't remember the name of the product(s) he proposed we use but the upshot was that he'd basically make the deck 'look' nice (using acid and some tlc) and then stick 6 coats of some special varnish on top of it, with glass beads in it for grip - and it'll apparently last us at least 6 years and be maintenance free and look great and not require anything like the expense of an entirely new deck!

Varnish's name began with a 'c' I think.
 
Nice to see you too! Are you back in Plymouth now, or still planning to come back to Dartmouth?

I can't remember the name of the product(s) he proposed we use but the upshot was that he'd basically make the deck 'look' nice (using acid and some tlc) and then stick 6 coats of some special varnish on top of it, with glass beads in it for grip - and it'll apparently last us at least 6 years and be maintenance free and look great and not require anything like the expense of an entirely new deck!

Varnish's name began with a 'c' I think.

Colean perhaps?? PM sent.
 
Nice to see you too! Are you back in Plymouth now, or still planning to come back to Dartmouth?

I can't remember the name of the product(s) he proposed we use but the upshot was that he'd basically make the deck 'look' nice (using acid and some tlc) and then stick 6 coats of some special varnish on top of it, with glass beads in it for grip - and it'll apparently last us at least 6 years and be maintenance free and look great and not require anything like the expense of an entirely new deck!

Varnish's name began with a 'c' I think.
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I would be very interested to know what is being proposed to see if it would be suitable for my boat.
 
Nice to see you too! Are you back in Plymouth now, or still planning to come back to Dartmouth?

I can't remember the name of the product(s) he proposed we use but the upshot was that he'd basically make the deck 'look' nice (using acid and some tlc) and then stick 6 coats of some special varnish on top of it, with glass beads in it for grip - and it'll apparently last us at least 6 years and be maintenance free and look great and not require anything like the expense of an entirely new deck!

Varnish's name began with a 'c' I think.

Just caught up on this one. Think carefully about using that product on teak decks. Not only is it hideuosly expensive but is not always successful. Barnacle who posts here regularly did his deck with it and it peeled off in sheets. It seems fine until the film breaks and water gets underneath..

The best treatment for teak decks is to keep them clean and washed regularly. If they leak, or the teak is lifting from the substrate, there really is no alternative (after you have patched as best you can) to complete recaulking and refastening if there is enough depth left. If there isn't then stripping and replacing is the only answer.
 
Just caught up on this one. Think carefully about using that product on teak decks. Not only is it hideuosly expensive but is not always successful. Barnacle who posts here regularly did his deck with it and it peeled off in sheets. It seems fine until the film breaks and water gets underneath..

Read this thread ... carefully and entirely.
 
Thank you. Some positive experiences, some negative.

We may already own the product now, and have commissioned Guy to start the work in mid Sept.

He's applied it successfully before, and recommended it as a best solution for us, but I will ask him for his thoughts on the de-laminating some have experienced.

I am hoping not to have to remove all deck fittings in order to apply it (extensive interior woodwork installations would need removal) but perhaps that would be a source for leaks under the Colean which could cause the bubbling others have suffered.

I like the idea of removing it compleletely, leaving teak under existing fittings, and "painting" the deck, but the boat model _always_ comes with a teak deck and this solution means it remains looking more original and less hotch potch maybe.
 
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