Teak Deck Caulking replacement

peterN

peterN

Active Member
Joined
13 Jan 2004
Messages
62
Location
Falmouth
www.yachtvalhalla.com
The caulking between the teak planks on our 17 year old HR352 is in need of replacement. Can anyone give advice on how to proceed? Particularly any tips on:

1. Tools and techniques for removing old caulking.
2. How to sand to deck once the caulking has been removed.
3. Which type of caulking to use.
4. How best to mask-up the deck.
5. How to apply the new caulking.
6. How to clean up the mess afterwards!

Sorry about the long list, but any help would be much appreciated before I make a complete pig's ear of the whole thing.

Cheers,
Peter
 
Do a search, there was recent thread on this. As I recall, the favourite answer for removal seems to have been using a Fein Multimaster tool. There's quite a lot of info around in the back issues of the magazines about teakery, and also Sika website has hints and tips as I recall ( I had a teak deck replaced about 3 years back).
 
Short answer and open to correction as I'm only passing on how I've seen it done is :-

Remove old stuff with Fein multi with special seam removal blade
Apply Sika primer
Sika deck check site for correct number
Don't mask - make a mess
Compressor and air caulker, you'll need sika sausages (or hand caulking - hard work for whole deck
Leave for week then sand back
You might want some Sika clean for hands, fittings etc which will need cleaning daily.
 
One of the WEST Epoxy publications describes bedding the teak deck in epoxy [coloured black], and also using it between the seams instead of caulking compound. It is not recommended as a botch-up repair job but as a technique for a new, or totally refurbished deck. The procedure looks straightforward but I have no experience of it so I can't advise if it's a valid technique or not. Might be worthwhile you reading about it and then seeking advice from someone who has tried it.

The Fein Multimaster, with the proper attachment, makes getting out the old caulking much easier.
 
My last post, as I'm doing it this winter. Not done too much research, just bought the tool. Now considering the best way to lay new sikaflex without using masking tape, and not needing to sand down too much afterwards. Unless there is a ready soultuion, I'm going to have to make a squeezy gizmo which lays a flat topped bead into the seam. Thinking aloud now.

Oops. 1am. Time for bed.
 
Cut the applicator nozzle wider and at an angle, mask roughly if you must then scrape excess with piece of wood, but still going to have to sand a fair bit. How much seaming to do on HR352?
 
Use a potato cut to shape to remove excess, but mask aswell.
Have you thought about the fact, the deck may also need re-plugging and the grooves for the sikaflex deepening when its sanded. All the HR's I've seen which needed re-caulking on the deck needed this done.
 
Sure?

[ QUOTE ]
Great advice - I like the idea of not masking, but won't the sander quickly get clogged with excess caulking

[/ QUOTE ]Are you sure it's great advice? You'll find that your 17-year-old deck will be getting pretty worn in places, and any enthusiastic sanding will lead to plugs popping out, causing even more problems.

Another aspect you need to check out is whether the recommendations for Sika products are appropriate. Your deck was almost certainly originally caulked with a one-part silicone rubber caulk, and without a massive amount of preparation you may find that polyurethane-based caulking products won't adhere to the grooves. The silicone rubber which HR now recommend is Rhodorsil Sea Line 100.

Above all, don't consider embarking on this project without a lot of careful research (you'll probably find that HR will be able to guide you). The scale of the task is massive, and it's a nasty messy job. If you don't get it right first time, you'll potentially wreck the deck. And if you only get it partly right, the deck will look horrible and you'll wreck the resale value of the boat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top