Taylor's cabin heater overhaul

[richardm47]

After some fettling in my garage, my Taylor's 079D cabin heater now works. Except if that I don't keep the blue button pressed down manually all the time, the diesel stops dripping. So I think the flame failure device has stopped working. That device consists of a valve part and a probe part. Here's a picture:

View attachment 62183

Few questions:
1. Can anyone explain how the "magnetic control valve" is supposed to work? Does the "probe/thermocouple" push the valve to its open position when the sensor gets hot? What's the magnetic bit for?
2. Can the valve or the probe (or both) be tested in any useful way? (Other than lighting the stove, obviously!) For example, if I disconnect the probe and heat its sensitive end over a candle, should I see the the other end of the probe beginning to extend out from the copper pipe?
3. Can the valve part be disassembled for inspection and cleaning?

It looks as if the copper pipe of the probe has been squeezed in a vice. So it could easily be compromised if it relies on physical movement inside the pipe.

Grateful for any advice. My other option is to buy replacement parts. Cost £100!

 

[Plum]

After some fettling in my garage, my Taylor's 079D cabin heater now works. Except if that I don't keep the blue button pressed down manually all the time, the diesel stops dripping. So I think the flame failure device has stopped working. That device consists of a valve part and a probe part. Here's a picture:

View attachment 62183

Few questions:
1. Can anyone explain how the "magnetic control valve" is supposed to work? Does the "probe/thermocouple" push the valve to its open position when the sensor gets hot? What's the magnetic bit for?
2. Can the valve or the probe (or both) be tested in any useful way? (Other than lighting the stove, obviously!) For example, if I disconnect the probe and heat its sensitive end over a candle, should I see the the other end of the probe beginning to extend out from the copper pipe?
3. Can the valve part be disassembled for inspection and cleaning?

It looks as if the copper pipe of the probe has been squeezed in a vice. So it could easily be compromised if it relies on physical movement inside the pipe.

Grateful for any advice. My other option is to buy replacement parts. Cost £100!

Hi, i have the same heater and had the same problem a few years ago. I never got to dismantle the flame failure device so can't answer all your questions but i do know that the the magnet inside holds the valve open and the temperature sensor pushes the valve off the magnet when it is not hot enough, alowing the spring to close the valve. However, my problem was due to me not having inserted the probe correctly into the recess in the bottom of the combustion container so it was not getting hot enough. At the time i did some research on a cheeper source of flame failure device. Do some searches and you wil find examples like this http://www.stromsholm.co.uk/pro-forge-flame-failure-device-1453-p.asp . You may be able to buy just the probe. http://www.bullfinch-gas.co.uk/spares/flame-failure-valve-thermocouple-and-locknuts-detail
http://www.bullfinch-gas.co.uk/spares/thermocouple-detail


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[alahol2]

I may be way out here but if the flame failure device is anything like on a gas cooker then it is a thermoelectric device. The probe is a thermocouple that is somehow producing enough voltage to power a magnet in the fuel tap that is holding the valve open. When the thermocouple cools, the voltage drops and a spring closes the valve.
Thermocouples are available from a variety of sources to fit various gas cookers, you may well find one that would fit the Taylors if that is the problem.
Good luck.

PS I'm not sure, if you heat the probe, whether you can read the voltage with a multimeter, presumably between the casing and the centre contact of the thermocouple. Nor what the reading should be.

 

[Iliade]

Other than connections, I see no reason why a universal gas thermocouple wouldn't work with a diesel flame. These fail all of the time, such that I keep two spares alongside the Aga at home following a particularly cool christmas dinner.

 

[Plum]

I may be way out here but if the flame failure device is anything like on a gas cooker then it is a thermoelectric device. The probe is a thermocouple that is somehow producing enough voltage to power a magnet in the fuel tap that is holding the valve open. When the thermocouple cools, the voltage drops and a spring closes the valve.
Thermocouples are available from a variety of sources to fit various gas cookers, you may well find one that would fit the Taylors if that is the problem.
Good luck.

PS I'm not sure, if you heat the probe, whether you can read the voltage with a multimeter, presumably between the casing and the centre contact of the thermocouple. Nor what the reading should be.

No, this device is not thermoelectric (thermomechanical?) ��

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[alahol2]

No, this device is not thermoelectric (thermomechanical?) ��

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Taylors do, however, call it a thermocouple.

 

[richardm47]

Thanks everyone for your help. I bought a replacement valve incl thermocouple from Bullfinch (following Plums info) cost about £25. The Taylor's fuel lines screw onto the new valve, no problem. Don't buy just the thermocouple that Bullfinch sell - that has a different thread from the Taylor's valve. Bullfinch sell the valve for their gas fire, but it works in my stove. So I'm a happy man.

This is how I think the thermocouple works. The hot bit in the flames generates a tiny electric current. The current goes up a wire inside the copper tube to the other end, where it is just strong enough to activate an electromagnet. That magnet then pulls down a cylinder against a spring. It there's no flame, there's no current and no magnetic force, so the spring pushes the cylinder up to seal off the flow of diesel.

I couldnt see a way to test the thermocouple except by trying it in the stove. It would be worth disassembling the valve and cleaning it before buying spares. In my case the thermocouple had failed I think.

I'll try and put up some photos.

 

[richardm47]

I hope these photos show the progressive changes made to the old system, introducing the new valve, and the breakdown of the valve itself.

 

[Plum]

Thanks everyone for your help. I bought a replacement valve incl thermocouple from Bullfinch (following Plums info) cost about £25. The Taylor's fuel lines screw onto the new valve, no problem. Don't buy just the thermocouple that Bullfinch sell - that has a different thread from the Taylor's valve. Bullfinch sell the valve for their gas fire, but it works in my stove. So I'm a happy man.

This is how I think the thermocouple works. The hot bit in the flames generates a tiny electric current. The current goes up a wire inside the copper tube to the other end, where it is just strong enough to activate an electromagnet. That magnet then pulls down a cylinder against a spring. It there's no flame, there's no current and no magnetic force, so the spring pushes the cylinder up to seal off the flow of diesel.

I couldnt see a way to test the thermocouple except by trying it in the stove. It would be worth disassembling the valve and cleaning it before buying spares. In my case the thermocouple had failed I think.

I'll try and put up some photos.

Thanks for the feedback and pictures. Keep warm!

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