TAYLOR PARAFIN BURNERS - different Q this time !

[STATUE]

Okay my previous post was about a leaking burner even when turned off - I've ditched it and fortunatedly had my own 'pre-used' spares that do not leak , hooray !

HOWEVER, whilst mucking about with all this - taking the burner off/on. X n. ! I have come to the conclusion that it would be much easier to take out the burner WITH the support plate.

I know this means disconnecting some pipe work.

HAS ANYONE EVER DONE THIS ?

 

[vyv_cox]

Not quite sure which Taylors you are talking about. I had a two-burner stove for years and completely dismantled it several times. And a folding two-burner Primus before that, of quite similar design. It's just plumbing, what is the problem?

 

[STATUE]

Not quite sure which Taylors you are talking about. I had a two-burner stove for years and completely dismantled it several times. And a folding two-burner Primus before that, of quite similar design. It's just plumbing, what is the problem?

Hi Vyv,

Yes I should have said.

It's the two top burners of a Taylor 30.

They are each screwed onto a metal flat 'arch' type support, and at one stage one has to manoeuvre two spanners at a time to dis/connect the burner.

Taking it ALL off would facilitate far better seating of the burner connections, BUT, when I attempt to unscrew a support the screw seems not to be threaded and only turns. I am considering cutting out these m/c screws and replacing with a 'receiving' nut against the 'roof' of the oven.

But as these washers and nuts will be in the oven I am wondering if I need to ensure I use a type capable of coping with the heat - that's why I ask if anyone has done this ?

 

[JVL]

You can remove the pre heat burner cup which makes life a easier to achieve a leak proof seal. Seen this done ,then pre heat with a tilley wick

John

 

[vyv_cox]

I can't give you that sort of detail, sorry, but I would investigate any screws that turn without doing anything. So far as the fastenings are concerned there is nothing in normal use, steel, stainless steel, brass, that would be affected by domestic oven heat.

 

[Amulet]

Okay my previous post was about a leaking burner even when turned off - I've ditched it and fortunatedly had my own 'pre-used' spares that do not leak , hooray !

HOWEVER, whilst mucking about with all this - taking the burner off/on. X n. ! I have come to the conclusion that it would be much easier to take out the burner WITH the support plate.

I know this means disconnecting some pipe work.

HAS ANYONE EVER DONE THIS ?

Bad idea I'm afraid. The joints in the pipework are compression joints with soft copper olives. They can't be remade. You'd have to cut a bit off the pipe and make a new joint with a new olive. You'd run out of pipe after a couple of goes. I have become a dab hand at removing burners. I have acquired spanners specifically for that purpose and cut and filed their handles for use in that space. Unscrewing the burner support can still make it easier to get at the nuts to remove the burner.

 

[Amulet]

They are each screwed onto a metal flat 'arch' type support, and at one stage one has to manoeuvre two spanners at a time to dis/connect the burner.

Taking it ALL off would facilitate far better seating of the burner connections, BUT, when I attempt to unscrew a support the screw seems not to be threaded and only turns. I am considering cutting out these m/c screws and replacing with a 'receiving' nut against the 'roof' of the oven.

But as these washers and nuts will be in the oven I am wondering if I need to ensure I use a type capable of coping with the heat - that's why I ask if anyone has done this ?

Yes, I have done it. There is a threaded bush brazed on inside the double top. They detached one by one over time. I drilled them out. I put a short 6mm hex socket bolt through the hole with a spring lock washer and an normal hex nut inside the oven on the bolts. All of them have been done by now. The modification has lasted many years. All parts used were A2 stainless steel. If you were near Oban I could give you the necessary fixings. (It's so long ago that I can't remember how I drilled them, but it was a pain in the butt, with the bush spinning on the drill. I managed, but I recall it requiring a substantial amount of effing and blinding.)

 

[Prasutigus]

Bad idea I'm afraid. The joints in the pipework are compression joints with soft copper olives. They can't be remade. You'd have to cut a bit off the pipe and make a new joint with a new olive. You'd run out of pipe after a couple of goes. I have become a dab hand at removing burners. I have acquired spanners specifically for that purpose and cut and filed their handles for use in that space. Unscrewing the burner support can still make it easier to get at the nuts to remove the burner.

Greetings,
Same here, another "dab hand".

I just got some spanners and chopped them up and smoothed them off.

You need 3 spanners, 19 22 and 25 mil, to pull a burner, at least on my 70 yr old red knob 028, made in Maldon.

You can't mess about, I keep them in the oven, not much use for anything else and they help with the gimbal swing.

It's a funny feeling buying a new Halfords Professional spanner and immediately cutting it in half

To OP: I also mess about with the copper olives as little as possible, the only problem I ever get is blocked jets, but I have been cruising around in a few different countries and some of them have gritty paraffin.

Have been using the new 4 leg burners for a year or so, they are claimed to be better but not really in practice, I might go back to fewer legs, as the 4's seem to need a lot more pre-heating to get the vapourising going.

 

[Amulet]

Have been using the new 4 leg burners for a year or so, they are claimed to be better but not really in practice, I might go back to fewer legs, as the 4's seem to need a lot more pre-heating to get the vapourising going.

My experience doesn't match. We may have an Animal Farm scenario developing here. "Four legs good, two legs better!" Not my view. The new four-legged friends suit me very well. They do, however, need to be run at a considerably lower pressure than other burners. I reckon about 15-18psi on my gauge, not that I trust the gauge very much. I still use the old fashioned meths method of preheating. 20ml syringe and four minutes on the timer for the burn.

By the way, there are two effs in paraffin - sometimes more when the stove is playing up.

 

[STATUE]

Yes, I have done it. There is a threaded bush brazed on inside the double top. They detached one by one over time. I drilled them out. I put a short 6mm hex socket bolt through the hole with a spring lock washer and an normal hex nut inside the oven on the bolts. All of them have been done by now. The modification has lasted many years. All parts used were A2 stainless steel. If you were near Oban I could give you the necessary fixings. (It's so long ago that I can't remember how I drilled them, but it was a pain in the butt, with the bush spinning on the drill. I managed, but I recall it requiring a substantial amount of effing and blinding.)

Amulet,

Many thanks indeed, this has been very useful - I now regret not being near Oban !

Regards.

 

[Happybear]

Hi, I have a problem with the burners in my taylors stove ,I bought 2 new ones made by Hanse in Germany . One in 2012 an one in 2014 ,though they would go straight into my spares box(as I always want to have one complete burner spare,) and not fitted for a season or 2 until I had a problem with with a burner in the stove. Now both burners have developed holes in the main body below the legs with a jet of flame shooting out. The one in the oven is the worst with a jet of flame about 3-4 inches long and I hardly use the oven and am only on board for 5 weeks in the year .my boat is in France . Has anyone else had problems with new Hanse burners?

 

[Kelpie]

Hi, I have a problem with the burners in my taylors stove ,I bought 2 new ones made by Hanse in Germany . One in 2012 an one in 2014 ,though they would go straight into my spares box(as I always want to have one complete burner spare,) and not fitted for a season or 2 until I had a problem with with a burner in the stove. Now both burners have developed holes in the main body below the legs with a jet of flame shooting out. The one in the oven is the worst with a jet of flame about 3-4 inches long and I hardly use the oven and am only on board for 5 weeks in the year .my boat is in France . Has anyone else had problems with new Hanse burners?

There's not many of us on here with paraffin stoves. Maybe try the classic camp stoves forum?