Taylor heater copper pipe connections

[vestorn]

Thought I was kind of a "jack-of-all-trades" when it comes to various boat work...
Can anyone help me out of this one, please?

Trying to fit new drip valve and control meter to a Taylor D79 heater - and cannot understand what seems to be a simple drawing - have a look at 6.5.2 ASSEMBLING THE COMPRESSION FITTINGS, page 13 on
http://www.youngsunowners.org/pdf/079D%20Instructions.pdf

I've got some bits and pieces - copper pipe, coupling nuts and two sorts of olives - one copper type that looks like the one in the drawing, and one brass(?) type, which is a sylinder with a elevated "ring" in the middle part.

As everything seems to slide either way I cannot see how this will be compressed when thightening.

Am I missing something? Is the olive supposed to be crimped or soldered on to the pipe - in order to be stuck at 4mm?

Finally, connecting the glass part and the magnetic control valve, I need to keep them aligned. It seems like I cannot tighten the treads all the way in order to achieve this - what kind of packing can I use to get it fastened and not leaking?

Many thanks in advance!

 

[Malish]

re the olive: as you screw the two fitting together the olive will compress and pinch onto the pipe effecting a seal; the compression effect will also enable a seal between the outer part of the olive and the fitting. The key is to ensure the olive is a little way down the pipe before compressing (4 mm in your case) and then to not over tighten the fitting - remember that you can always tighten a fitting but if you overtighten it will leak and all you can do is replace.
can't comment on the glass part question - try the manufacturer?

 

[Robin2]

My technique for compression fittings is to slide the nut and olive onto the pipe. (Both should slide on easily, but the olive should have little or no slack). Then slide the end of the pipe into the fitting as far as it will go (up to the counter bore in the PDF diagram). Now slide the olive so that it is touching the fitting and then put on the nut and tighten it. When you undo the joint the olive should be firmly fixed to the pipe with a short length of pipe extending past the olive. At this stage you can reconnect the joint and it should be liquid or gas-tight. There is no need to use sticky stuff or PTFE tape.

You say that you have both copper and brass olives. For regular domestic copper or plastic piping brass olives are normal. However for soft 8mm copper pipe (comes in a roll) I find that brass olives do not make an effective seal - I only use copper olives. The brass olives will crimp onto the soft pipe, but when you undo the joint the brass olives can be rotated in place.

It's probably worth buying a small pipe cutter to get neat joints on soft copper pipe. Its very easy to accidentally squeeze the pipe into an oval cross section while sawing it and then it is difficult or impossible to push the nut or olive on.

 

[Steve_N]

I'd recommend the copper olive: looks just like a small piece of larger copper pipe. They seem a loose fit but they do compress well and form a good seal.

Finally, connecting the glass part and the magnetic control valve
Do you mean this joint here?

Taylors use some kind of hard setting sealant - you can see it oozing out. No idea what it is though, but it needs to be heat resistant.