Portofino
Well-Known Member
I,am gonna do the valve adjustment on my MAN,s They use a comman head with interchangeably .
First I bought a 32 mm socket then conveniently a 1M square box section that fits snug over a quality ratchet.
I had a go at “ barring “ actually only needed about 50 cm of available leverage -phew .
It’s because the rings are loose ish and if you turn it slowly air escapes thus you are not fighting the 15-1 compression ratio with a 12.8 L inline 6 .
View attachment 75626
Luckily the boat came with some official MAN tool like this valve adjustment tool .Its so you can nip up the lock nut ( after adjustment) and not move the adjuster screw - neat tool hey ?
View attachment 75627
My rig , that box section was €6 .
View attachment 75628
The rig on the stb crank pulls bolt - turns both ways up and down .The ratchet is good as in a confined space you can back up if needed .
View attachment 75629
Port engines crank bolt access , I’ll need to climb outboard to get the bar in with sufficient working room .
Have established I could bar them next up whip off a valve cover .
View attachment 75630
Soft alloy held on by soft alloy 13 mm bolts .Nice clean gold alloy , I thought the gold was paint ,buts it’s through and through.( another job if winded off on day - Mistral to tidy up the scrappy exterior, remove them 1st and do on the quay )
View attachment 75631
View attachment 75632
I closely examined the gasket , it’s imbedded in a grove quite thick and bouncy. I did not remove it as feared knackering it .
Reassembled the cap carefully being mindful it’s all alloy + the gold bolts are soft .I did not leak when I a ran up the engine .
I got the maintenance manual and the sequence, can identify the exhaust and inlet valves .
It’s a quad valve head but there’s only one rocker per pair , the valve pairs are connected by a bridge thingy .
Questions
Anybody done this ?
Will the “ rocker method “ work for this 6 cylinder engine
View attachment 75633
Any tips ar pitfalls appreciated .:encouragement:
I’ve done petrol engines ( removed the plugs to facilitate turning )
First I bought a 32 mm socket then conveniently a 1M square box section that fits snug over a quality ratchet.
I had a go at “ barring “ actually only needed about 50 cm of available leverage -phew .
It’s because the rings are loose ish and if you turn it slowly air escapes thus you are not fighting the 15-1 compression ratio with a 12.8 L inline 6 .
View attachment 75626
Luckily the boat came with some official MAN tool like this valve adjustment tool .Its so you can nip up the lock nut ( after adjustment) and not move the adjuster screw - neat tool hey ?
View attachment 75627
My rig , that box section was €6 .
View attachment 75628
The rig on the stb crank pulls bolt - turns both ways up and down .The ratchet is good as in a confined space you can back up if needed .
View attachment 75629
Port engines crank bolt access , I’ll need to climb outboard to get the bar in with sufficient working room .
Have established I could bar them next up whip off a valve cover .
View attachment 75630
Soft alloy held on by soft alloy 13 mm bolts .Nice clean gold alloy , I thought the gold was paint ,buts it’s through and through.( another job if winded off on day - Mistral to tidy up the scrappy exterior, remove them 1st and do on the quay )
View attachment 75631
View attachment 75632
I closely examined the gasket , it’s imbedded in a grove quite thick and bouncy. I did not remove it as feared knackering it .
Reassembled the cap carefully being mindful it’s all alloy + the gold bolts are soft .I did not leak when I a ran up the engine .
I got the maintenance manual and the sequence, can identify the exhaust and inlet valves .
It’s a quad valve head but there’s only one rocker per pair , the valve pairs are connected by a bridge thingy .
Questions
Anybody done this ?
Will the “ rocker method “ work for this 6 cylinder engine
View attachment 75633
Any tips ar pitfalls appreciated .:encouragement:
I’ve done petrol engines ( removed the plugs to facilitate turning )
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