TAMD63 dumping coolant

[Bojangles]

Looking for advise, my port engine has been ejecting coolant through the tube at the filler cap, into the bilges. This engine has been running at a slightly higher temp than the other side. When I remove the filler cap the coolant is about half an inch from the top.

I recently had a broken shaft coupling on this side and discovered there was an alignment problem. The shaft has currently been removed for staightening.

Are these issues connected?

 

[Labhaoise]

you have a raw water cooling issue
maybe a blocked strainer before the impellor thus not enough water passing through the exchanger
maybe the uptake pipe is blocked with debris
maybe the heat exchanger needs descaling
Maybe a faulty thermostat

I had a similar issue recently when my strainer became blocked on a tamd 63p when trying to running for any period at 22knots. also overheated buzzer sounded so i trottled back and engine cooled again to normal temp, however the coolant had been dumped into the bilge. This i think is due to expansion of the coolant and the need to release this pressure, think of an overfull kettle when it boils water comes out the spout, and the overflow pipe takes care of this.

I just sorted the problem and topped up the coolant and no issues since when full throttle.
hope this helps

 

[DAKA]

Looking for advise, my port engine has been ejecting coolant through the tube at the filler cap, into the bilges. This engine has been running at a slightly higher temp than the other side. When I remove the filler cap the coolant is about half an inch from the top.

I recently had a broken shaft coupling on this side and discovered there was an alignment problem. The shaft has currently been removed for staightening.

Are these issues connected?

The description you give sounds normal for that engine.

As the water and block heats up everything expands and water overflows through the tube at the cap, thats what it is there for.

Once cooled the coolant level should be 1/2 inch from the top, my only surprise is that the other side doesn't also do it.

Change the filler caps from one side to another and see if the perceived problem switches.

Then just dont top it up as much, only start to worry if the levels continues to fall.

 

[peterandjeanette]

Then just dont top it up as much, only start to worry if the levels continues to fall.
__________________

Cannot see into the top of my 63P's filler cap without removing the saloon floor/carpet/overcarpet etc. Access from lazarette is sufficient for engine checks. Rely on the fact that when the cap is removed I can insert my middle finger and just touch the coolant. If I try to top up any more it just overflows when hot. Never had a coolant problem so far.

Works for me.

 

[aquapower]

The coolant should find its own level when up to temperature and after that should not push out any more coolant, then each time you check when cold it should bee the same level, try putting an empty drinks bottle on end of pipe so you can moniter what it is pushing out.

 

[Bojangles]

Thanks for the replies, I probably wouldn't have been too concerned about it apart from the fact that the coupling/shaft problem has made me slightly paranoid. I just think its strange that there is a difference between the two engines. I will keep my eye on it on the next trip, once I'm back in the water..

 

[aquatom]

The differance between the engines may be due to the calorifier only being conected to one engine. More pipe work means more coolant capacity and more expansion. Try closing the calorifier isolation valves on the engine if you have any.

 

[Bojangles]

The differance between the engines may be due to the calorifier only being conected to one engine. More pipe work means more coolant capacity and more expansion. Try closing the calorifier isolation valves on the engine if you have any.

Ok thanks, I don't know what the set up is but I'll have a look

 

[Labhaoise]

The differance between the engines may be due to the calorifier only being conected to one engine. More pipe work means more coolant capacity and more expansion. Try closing the calorifier isolation valves on the engine if you have any.

On a sealine F43 as in this case both engines are hooked up to 1 calorifier each so i doubt this is the cause.
However on my F43 neither engine run at the same temps if you were to go by the gauge . My port engine also runs slightly higher temp by a couple of degree or a needles width so to speak when looking at the gauges. i put it down to calibration of the gauges or sender unit from engine. I could be wrong.

 

[Bojangles]

Dumping Coolant - Update

Looking for advise, my port engine has been ejecting coolant through the tube at the filler cap, into the bilges. This engine has been running at a slightly higher temp than the other side. When I remove the filler cap the coolant is about half an inch from the top.

I recently had a broken shaft coupling on this side and discovered there was an alignment problem. The shaft has currently been removed for staightening.

Are these issues connected?

Update- After shaft re-fitted, ran boat on 60nm trip, both engines about the same (As Labhaoise said, about a needles width of a difference). No further coolant ejected (although I haven't topped port side up above the half inch below the cap). This raises the question of could the bent shaft cause vibration that has caused the engine to overheat slightly & eject coolant? If yes, should I have investigated further when I had earlier higher temp?

Thank for all the replies. Someone had suggested the water intake strainer could have been blocked, these were previously cleaned so were ok.