Tamd63 dip stick tube dia?

[John100156]

I'm just making up a small pump to suck the oil out of my TAMD63P's (2001), can anyone tell me the OD of the dip-stick tube please?

I was thinking of sliding the suction tube over the dip-stick tube, rather than a thin tube down it and wanted to get the bits together before my next trip out in a few weeks!

Many thanks

 

[Elessar]

I'm just making up a small pump to suck the oil out of my TAMD63P's (2001), can anyone tell me the OD of the dip-stick tube please?

I was thinking of sliding the suction tube over the dip-stick tube, rather than a thin tube down it and wanted to get the bits together before my next trip out in a few weeks!

Many thanks

surely that won't go far enough down. The thin tube lies on the bottom.

 

[Vara]

Won't work, thin tube down the dip stick is the way to go.

which is of course what Ellie said, distracted by vegetables boiling over.

 

[Elessar]

Won't work, thin tube down the dip stick is the way to go.

which is of course what Ellie said, distracted by vegetables boiling over.

another reason to eat meat and not bother with the girly stuff.

 

[John100156]

Last oil change done by others whilst I was off the boat, I'll be doing this one myself! Looks like I will be needing the maximum OD then of a tube that will pass down the dip stick tube, not seen this engine before with the sump off, so don't know how far the actual dip stick tube extends down into the sump on the TAMD 63..... Anyway, any dims or pipe type would be most useful!

 

[John100156]

Looks like Pella use 3/16, 3/8 and 1/4 OD tube, but if anyone has the maximum OD that can be used it would be appreciated.

 

[Bojangles]

I have the same engines, this is the pump I use, http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&method=mViewProduct&productid=8516 ,it has both 5.8 & 6.7mm tubes, one of them works perfectly, think the smaller but unsure. If you have both those sizes or better still get the sealy pump then you will be ok.

 

[Bandit]

As others have said sucking from dip stick tube won't go low enough.

You need pella pump or the sealey equivalent.

Best results is when the engines are hot and the oil is thin not cold and treacly

 

[talltim]

Aren't these engines fitted with the oil suction pipe as standard as fitted to the TAMD41?

If so you just need a hose that fits securely over the pump inlet and pipe end

 

[John100156]

If you mean the dipstick tube (not seen any others) then that is what the manual shows, an oil scavenging pump connected to the top of the oil dip stick tube, it also confirms the TAMD63 has no drain plug. I will post up the relevant page of the manual soon.

Not drained the oil from one of these engines yet myself so any advice from people that have is appreciated.

 

[Bojangles]

Draining the oil from these engines is really easy and quick with the sealy type pump, run the engines for 5 minutes, put the correct tube down into the dip stick tube, connect to the pump, up and down on the handle to built up the suction and the pump does the rest. You will need an empty drum to pour the oil into, plenty of rags and a couple of bags (I use builders bags for the waste as they are totally leak proof). The pump I have holds 6.5 ltrs, wouldn't want any bigger than this as it would be difficult to move around with and empty in a confined space.

 

[John100156]

?...The pump I have holds 6.5 ltrs, wouldn't want any bigger than this as it would be difficult to move around with and empty in a confined space.....

I do like the Pella and Sealy vacuum type pumps but the low capacity of them (although I believe one can now do 14L) was one of the reasons why I wanted to use an electric pump; having changed the oil on Hurricanes P67 (dont ask how much which has electric pumps built-in, I have selected a pump which is self-priming that enables me to pump the hot oil directly to a 25L container.

What is interesting is that I have had a PM from a very experienced Volvo mechanic that regularly services these engines, he uses a rubber tube OVER the dipstick as shown in the VP manual, I suppose the dilution rate with new oil given the 20+ liter capacity compared with what little is left contained in the sump, below the dipstick tube, is great so not a problem! I believe VP designed the tube that way hence no sump drain plug on the TAMD63.

Anyway, I may rig up the method I first thought to do to see what it removes and may then use a tube down through the dipstick tube to see how much more it actually removes, I will publish the results on this thread.

Anyway, thanks again for the useful info it is all much appreciated.

 

[John100156]

Info from my VP Manual - bit rushed so image quality may not be very good:

 

[Elessar]

Info from my VP Manual - bit rushed so image quality may not be very good:

same manual as me. Shows i was completely wrong. I never RTFM.........

 

[John100156]

Mark,

You really should RTFM in future, it also tells you how to renovate just about any 'old' thing......

I will try both methods next time out in a few weeks time, I am interested in how much more you might get out by inserting a tube down the dipstick tube, albeit with the reduced OD bore, the higher resistance to flow may inevitably take a little longer to extract the oil even if hot- So, watch this space!

I may also attempt pumping a 50/50 Rydelyme reverse flow from discharge in the exhaust through to the filter, having removed the impeller first, just to remove any build-up/deposits. I don't have any overheating problems, but whilst I'm down there....

 

[Bandit]

John how old are your 63's?

Mine are 11 and recently the exhaust riser from the turbo to the injection bend failed completely and sheared apart with corrosion luckily the injection bend was attached to a flexible then the exhaust hose which was held up in place with a support bracket. Otherwise on my boat the exhaust hose could have dropped. In the bilge allowing back flooding.

The exhaust riser failed, on internal inspection the injection bend was in a very poor condition and I replaced this with the flexible and the riser. Of course, we are about to do the other side as well.

If your boat is near this age I would at least open up the exhaust riser and injection bend for inspection and replace as necessary.

I Rydlymed both my engines this season from seawater inlet to gearbox outlet not the injection bend I was very pleased with the result as clean as a whistle temperature down a bit an I am sure water flow way up. A good move.

My injection bend was heavily corroded rust etc, not lymescale.

Squeeze your hoses that run along the top of the engine do they crunch? If so lymescale, if so imagine what the intercoolers are like?

 

[John100156]

John how old are your 63's?

Mine are 11 and recently the exhaust riser from the turbo to the injection bend failed completely and sheared apart with corrosion luckily the injection bend was attached to a flexible then the exhaust hose which was held up in place with a support bracket. Otherwise on my boat the exhaust hose could have dropped. In the bilge allowing back flooding.

The exhaust riser failed, on internal inspection the injection bend was in a very poor condition and I replaced this with the flexible and the riser. Of course, we are about to do the other side as well.

If your boat is near this age I would at least open up the exhaust riser and injection bend for inspection and replace as necessary.

I Rydlymed both my engines this season from seawater inlet to gearbox outlet not the injection bend I was very pleased with the result as clean as a whistle temperature down a bit an I am sure water flow way up. A good move.

My injection bend was heavily corroded rust etc, not lymescale.

Squeeze your hoses that run along the top of the engine do they crunch? If so lymescale, if so imagine what the intercoolers are like?

Hi David,

All very good advice many thanks: My engines are 12 years old with 650 hours, so I expect they may be in a similar condition. I know the former owner had some work undertaken on the injectors/turbo's, generally the exhaust elbows look in good condition externally but I had intended to remove the exhaust pipe to inspect it and the inside of the elbow.

I quite like the idea of back-flushing the heat exchangers pumping from the exhaust elbow to seawater inlet (I doubt it makes a significant difference which way the water flows) circulating the solution via small Grundfos domestic circulatory pump overnight. I might leave the old anodes in place and replace them all after the clean.

The more advice the better.....

 

[Elessar]

Hi David,

All very good advice many thanks: My engines are 12 years old with 650 hours, so I expect they may be in a similar condition. I know the former owner had some work undertaken on the injectors/turbo's, generally the exhaust elbows look in good condition externally but I had intended to remove the exhaust pipe to inspect it and the inside of the elbow.

I quite like the idea of back-flushing the heat exchangers pumping from the exhaust elbow to seawater inlet (I doubt it makes a significant difference which way the water flows) circulating the solution via small Grundfos domestic circulatory pump overnight. I might leave the old anodes in place and replace them all after the clean.

The more advice the better.....

Radlyme is great. But it will froth like mad when you start using it so you need considerable expansion room.
The way i do it.......

Hose from the exhaust elbow, ensuring it is looped higher than your highest heat exchanger, is fed into a bucket.
The hose is taken off the raw water pump and extended with clear hose. This is looped up even higher and connected to a bilge pump. Which is placed in the bucket.
Turn on the pump and add neat radlyme to the bucket. Noisy frothyness will start.
After a while the extreme frothyness dies down and the liquid, easily seen in the clear hose, is just white with bubbles. You will need to top up the radlyme as the frothyness decreases. Over time the liquid goes from whitey to dark brown. After about 24 hours it goes clear like tea without milk.

The pipes and the same radlyme is then moved to the other engine.

 

[Bandit]

I flushed the two engines in series, remove seawater impellers, connect pump from container to intake engine one, then gearbox sw outlet on one connect to engine two intake, then gearbox outlet two returns to container for re use.

You need a large container/ plastic box say 60 litres to contain froth.

First run froths like mad risks overflowing then settles down. After an hour first lot appears spent ditch and use lot two to finish off.

You can test with a bit of shell if it froths away like mad it's still active.

You can keep un spent solution for reuse.

From memory mix Rydlyme one to one with water.

The old way was to remove heat exchanger and soak in brick cleaner Hcl? This leaves the copper alloy exchanger a pink tinge which in my mind denotes removal of zinc like a pinking prop. When. We dipped a heat exchanger in Rydlyme it came out a burnished golden colour like a new one.

To be honest look at cost of exhaust risers and injection bends to get a quantum, so when you inspect may be replace.

My bend failed it sheared off, my injection elbow was in a dreadful condition heavily corroded and partly blocked. If you pm me your email I will send photos.

Other wise I love the 63p's excellent mechanical engines.

 

[andy59]

Has anyone done the rydlyme flush on KAMD44s ?, I'm not sure if I need to incorporate the gearbox oil coolers in the flushing circuit . No overheating issues but I am having to change both raw water pump seals at the moment so while it's apart might as well do them .BTW how many litres of rydlyme do you need ? .