Tamd60b oil pressure problem

Many thanks, I have everything crossed at the moment but can't get the new valve until Monday as it was on order from keypart and there was a 3 day order wait for it to arrive but hopefully this could be the anwser
 
Boatcraft said:
Found the pressure relief valve and removed it to find that was not seating correctly and was a gap where it seals so a new one is on its way and have a good feeling that this has been the problem all along as the previous thread back in 2012 said it had been replaced, but I can tell you this much it has never been replaced so it's best to check everything rather than reading about what previous owners have supposed to have done 
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I hope you have found the problem. An old trick that only ever works for a few days on compressor oil pumps to attempt to deny the real problem of serious bearing wear issues is to stretch the spring, which does work for a short while, until the spring does what springs do and returns to its original shape and form.

I do hope yours is not that eluded to here, and removing the gap / opening at the relief valve seat by fitting a new assembly I sincerely hope resolves the issue for you.
 
Many thanks for the info I will let you know if I fix the problem and if any more problems arise, I will keep you up to date ?
 
wouldn't swapping this pressure relief valve from port to stbrd engine give you a good indication if the problem is fixed or moved to the other engine (while waiting for the sparepart to arrive that is...)

good luck

V.
 
That was my plan but both engines are now drained of oil and flushed and waiting on 40l of 15/40 vds2 to arrive but it's all coming in one delivery so can't even test anything
 
Today I have put a new pressure relief valve in place to find the problem is still there, but this time the oil pressure does not drop as bad only 10psi and still holds 40psi with the drop but the sucking noise from the engine is a lot clearer which now sounds like it's coming from the oil cooler or filter housing, so stripped the filter housing off and the oil cooler to find the filter housing were clean and clear of any blockages, then stripped the oil cooler to find a part of a o ring in there? So I then removed the newly fitted pr valve to find and bit of o ring there too, engine has been flush and new oil and filters and no signs of anything in there that shouldn't be, but going to put it all back together tomorrow to see if that has fix it but really don't think that the bits I have found where causing the problem I still thing it's something else
 
Unfortunately I think your right. I have a slightly similar issue when the piston cooling jets start to work @ 1800 RPM. I see a small drop in pressure on starboard engine compared to port. I think your problem could be related -- at a certain engine speed/engine pressure the oil is being released into the engine, but too much. Have a look at the engine oil control valve block and valves.
 
Now I have checked everything possible on the engine without removing it I have now come to the conclusion that I need the sump off to look further in to the problem which is a big big job for the fact that there is no hatches or possible lifting methods so it looks like I am going to cut a hole in the flybridge floor which is not what I really wanted to do but I see know other way to lift the engine high enough to get under it, but he who dares wins
 
I've been following this thread with interest, and had fingers crossed for you that the new PRV would have fixed your problem.
What boat are the engines fitted too, as cutting holes in the flybridge sounds big job to lift the engine. I know I've read previously that someone lifted their engine using long lengths of threaded bar in place of the standard threaded post that goes into the engine mount. Though I can imagine it took a long time and lot of effort to wind the engine up the threaded bar on nuts to give the required clearance under the sump.
 
The boat is a Dawncraft illusion 37 if you do a quick google search on images you will find it as it's the only twin engine version in existence that I know off, there's some single engine versions left out there but this version was built on a patrol boat as they had a contract to build some but both boats where destroyed as the crane give way on delivery or so the story goes, but would like to here from anyone that may know more on the history of these boats, but yes your sugested idea is a good one just unsure how stable that would be as I need it approx 3ft up to give good clearance
Kind regards
 
Hi volvopaul, I have done lots of different things so far too get to the bottom of the problem, cleaned out oil cooler to find a small piece of o ring in there and cleaned filter housings and fitted a new pressure relief valve, the problem is still there, but I have now found that it's not low oil pressure it's looking like high oil pressure because the PR valve is opening when the problem occurs, to begin with it sounded like a sucking noise around the oil cooler and filter housing but have now found that the noise it the PR valve opening and staying open until the engine is switched off, restart and it's fine again, so it looks like it's only loosing the pressure because of the valve opening so am now thinking there's a blockage somewhere in the high pressure side of the oil ways, as I have found a piece of o ring in the new PR valve too, I have had 5 good engineers that I know look at it and everyone's lost with this problem, they have eliminated the low pressure side ie sump pickup as PR valve is opening, so now think there's some sort of blockage in the high pressure side, just putting this too you for any thoughts or do you have a oil way diagram of some description to try and find the blockage
Any input would be great as was going to try and lift the engine but need to cut a hole in the flybridge floor to do this and not really what I wanted to do, so any more input on what I have described would be great
Many thanks
 
I have a TAMD60B genuine Volvo manual for this engine. I have one in my boat but it does not tell you much about the oil filters and pressure senders, not even a part number. I just today disassemblied the whole oil filter/oil cooler assembly to find an troublesome oil leak which I think turns out to be a build up of carbon on the oil filter face. Well at least that is all I could find. Any how this thread is a bit old now so I don't know if this info is any use to you or not. Mine holds 20 litres of oil in the sump and what I find with the dip stick is for some reason I have to pull the dip stick, reinsert it and then pull it again to read how much oil in in the sump. For some reason just pulling it out it not good enough as there is seldom any oil showing on it the first time. You mentioned the smoke on start up, yep they all do that. Seems to be a thing with the 60B. smoke clears after the engine warms up. Maybe just the injectors dribbling. Don't know. Have not taken the time to sus it out to much yet. Keep an eye on the anodes in the front and rear of the oil cooler just above the oil filters. I find they become very soft and crumbly in a short time and the little bits that break off tend to block the tubes in the oil cooler thus reducing the cooling water flow which can lead to an over heating problem. I don't use the pencil anodes there any more. I just installed a heavy gauge copper wire from there to the block anode on the stern. Another issue I had was an electrical one. The regulator on the alternator failed and fried the starter before I realized there was something wrong. All the current from the alternator feeds back through the starter on the way to charging the batteries. Was getting straight AC for half an hour. Cooked everything. Mine has over 5000 hours on it now and still pulling strong.

Hope this info is of use to you.
Cheers
 
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