superheat6k
Well-Known Member
On my TAMD60C there was a small bleed screw on the banjo onto the turbo to allow bleeding. Crack it open until you get a smooth flow with the engine running at fast tickover.
TAMD40b slight overheat...
- Thread starter No Regrets
- Start date
Medway Mudlark
Well-Known Member
Sorry to rekindle an old thread, but I thought you all deserved an update.
After moving the boat to a new mooring to the 'muddier' part of the Mudway, the boat was lifted this August for the bottom/leg service/polish, and other stuff to be done, including fitting the new radar/plotter that SWMBO bought me for 2 Christmases ago! It was decided at this time to flush the freshwater system, before lifting, and this was successfully accomplished, as was the Turbo venting. At this stage the overheat continued. When lifted, the Exhaust elbow was examined and found to be almost blocked/corroded, and as a result was replaced. We then backflushed with Rydlyme and left to 'marinate' for 4 or so hours. On checking the drain points,in particular the one below the pulleys at the front, that nothing was coming out. The offending pipe was duly removed and the tee of the drain was found to be almost blocked. This was cleared out and the pipe reinstalled, with new 'o' rings. With all this done, and the works completed the boat was relaunched, only to find the seawater strainer leaked like a colander, on examination was found to be full of 'hairline cracks' . A phone call to VP ensued the next day, as the item was shown as obsolete on all the partts lists, but VP explained it had been superseeded and gave me the new part number. This was ordered and arrived the next day and was fitted, leaks gone after clearing the 'bodges' of the past. After losing the best part of a fortnights holiday, we decided to escape up the East coast, again the engine overheated. On returning to the moring it was a chance encounter on the pontoon one evening with a fellow owner, that got the grey matter working (the boat is on a 280 leg, but also fitted with a seacock). Surely VP woukld not invest large amounts of Krone designing and developing an engine that required 2 water inlets, which led me to closing the seacock and taking it 'for a blast'. The result was @ 3200 rpm it is now running at 85 deg and nothing coming out of the heat exchanger cap
I can only conclude taht, with the boat coming onto the plane, it was taking water through the leg, but the vacuum from the seacock was drawinfg it back out again, therefore loosing an amount of water to the pump. Quite why the seacock was fitted is a mystery to me, but it was there when I purchased the bost, some 2 odd years ago from the Thames, so none of this would probably have been noticed.
My thanks to you all for your advice..........all I have to do now is get a new prop, as I think its been ground down around the edges,and cavitates at high speed, but in spite of tis achieves 24 knots on the GPS!
After moving the boat to a new mooring to the 'muddier' part of the Mudway, the boat was lifted this August for the bottom/leg service/polish, and other stuff to be done, including fitting the new radar/plotter that SWMBO bought me for 2 Christmases ago! It was decided at this time to flush the freshwater system, before lifting, and this was successfully accomplished, as was the Turbo venting. At this stage the overheat continued. When lifted, the Exhaust elbow was examined and found to be almost blocked/corroded, and as a result was replaced. We then backflushed with Rydlyme and left to 'marinate' for 4 or so hours. On checking the drain points,in particular the one below the pulleys at the front, that nothing was coming out. The offending pipe was duly removed and the tee of the drain was found to be almost blocked. This was cleared out and the pipe reinstalled, with new 'o' rings. With all this done, and the works completed the boat was relaunched, only to find the seawater strainer leaked like a colander, on examination was found to be full of 'hairline cracks' . A phone call to VP ensued the next day, as the item was shown as obsolete on all the partts lists, but VP explained it had been superseeded and gave me the new part number. This was ordered and arrived the next day and was fitted, leaks gone after clearing the 'bodges' of the past. After losing the best part of a fortnights holiday, we decided to escape up the East coast, again the engine overheated. On returning to the moring it was a chance encounter on the pontoon one evening with a fellow owner, that got the grey matter working (the boat is on a 280 leg, but also fitted with a seacock). Surely VP woukld not invest large amounts of Krone designing and developing an engine that required 2 water inlets, which led me to closing the seacock and taking it 'for a blast'. The result was @ 3200 rpm it is now running at 85 deg and nothing coming out of the heat exchanger cap
I can only conclude taht, with the boat coming onto the plane, it was taking water through the leg, but the vacuum from the seacock was drawinfg it back out again, therefore loosing an amount of water to the pump. Quite why the seacock was fitted is a mystery to me, but it was there when I purchased the bost, some 2 odd years ago from the Thames, so none of this would probably have been noticed.
My thanks to you all for your advice..........all I have to do now is get a new prop, as I think its been ground down around the edges,and cavitates at high speed, but in spite of tis achieves 24 knots on the GPS!
oldgit
Well-Known Member
Nice when a problem actually appears to have been solved.Boat looked nice as you went past.
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Fred.
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Fred.Other threads that may be of interest
