tamd 63p turbo lag

I have a pair of the same commissioned end 2001.

I do not know about your problem but last weekend the exhaust riser that goes from the turbo to the water injection bend failed due to corrosion 800 hours and the whole pipe parted company one end from the other. Luckily I have a bracket supporting the exhaust so it did not fall and flood the engine room and I wrapped it in tin foil for the remainder of the journey.

So I am replacing exhaust riser (new is stainless) and the water injection elbow which was also a bit blocked up with corrosion on both engines so it yours is a similar vintage it might be worthwhile opening up and replacing?
 
dabsolute470 said:
hiya
we have 2 63p's port engine turbo comes in after a few seconds but the stbd engine is about 8 seconds behind the port.
anyone got an idea why its so much slower
thanks
Click to expand...

It could be the wastegate that's sticking or the housing of the turbo corroded away where the valve seat on the dump valve meets the turbo .
 
many thanks I will check but cant see any corrosion however the exhaust is not supported
thanks paul, was hoping you see this....lol the engines are 2001 going to try them again this weekend and check the rubber pipe
don't know if its a clue but the stbd engine run hot and now took out the thermostat and all seems ok temp wise but now got turbo lag...
 
dabsolute470 said:
many thanks I will check but cant see any corrosion however the exhaust is not supported
thanks paul, was hoping you see this....lol the engines are 2001 going to try them again this weekend and check the rubber pipe
don't know if its a clue but the stbd engine run hot and now took out the thermostat and all seems ok temp wise but now got turbo lag...
Click to expand...

Put the stat back in!!! It's there for a reason to distribute the coolant around the block, by doing that you will get uneven flow through the block, you may even cook no 5 /6 cylinders. Think about it, it's the heat exchangers that are blocked up , very common on the 63 and 74/75 series engine, also the gear cooler as well, I bet the tubes are blocked at the bottom.
A stat is fitted to all engines to make it run at a certain temp , by removing it your not allowing it to warm up evenly, that could be your problem.
 
volvopaul said:
Put the stat back in!!! It's there for a reason to distribute the coolant around the block, by doing that you will get uneven flow through the block, you may even cook no 5 /6 cylinders. Think about it, it's the heat exchangers that are blocked up , very common on the 63 and 74/75 series engine, also the gear cooler as well, I bet the tubes are blocked at the bottom.
A stat is fitted to all engines to make it run at a certain temp , by removing it your not allowing it to warm up evenly, that could be your problem.
Click to expand...
I recently spoke to a Volvo trained mechanic who said he's coming across loads of 63p's with heat exchangers which are so badly blocked the rubber pipe that feeds the exchanger becomes absolutely rock hard because of the extreme pressure. He said a quick check to determine if an exchanger is blocked is to try and squeeze the rubber pipe while the engine is running at about 2000rpm and if its not "squidgy", the heat exchanger is badly blocked. He showed me a load of pics off various boats he'd recently attended and I was amazed anything could pass through the minute holes - even water!
All of the exchangers he'd looked at were on boats from the early noughties.
He reckoned it would cost somewhere in the region of £2K to clean 2 exchangers properly (inc parts, coolant).
 
Ref Pipdoc

If your talking about heat exchanger blocked on the seawater side I have just Rydlymed both engines twice for the first time, a great deal of chemical action slightly lower running temps but it looks like they have had a jolly good de gunking.

Rydlyme does what it says on the box it removes lime scale build up, its non toxic, you can put your hands in it with no ill effect. Much less aggressive than using acids such as brick cleaner that attack the metals especially the copper alloys and the aluminium alloys.
 
Hi Paul

we took the thermostat out because the engine overheated ( alarms didn't sound just see the gauge got high )and dumped it coolant we are trying to find the reason for this and we are thinking sticking thermostat, it moved about 8mm in a bowl of boiling water. run engine over the weekend and it didn't overheat but got close to 200 so will need to look at heat exchangers next as recommended...
the water in the engine is very black and smelly, checked head gasket with a bit of kit and all is ok there
thanks for the advise
steve
 
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