T-ing off the heads intake

rowanloh

rowanloh

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I am considering installing a deck/anchor wash pump. I dont want to install a new through hull fitting and am considering T-ing off the heads intake seacock. Can anyone help me with some pictures or a description (fitting wise) of how anyone has done this previously. I would like to maintain the seaworthiness/integrity as much as possible. Thanks.
 
I did exactly that. I installed a shut-off ball valve on the branch, so that I could isolate the deckwash pump supply. I've never had to do so, and it works perfectly.
 
Depending upon your heads installation you will probably need to put a shut off valve in the branch supplying the heads or you wash pump may suck air in via the antisyphon loop even if not from the heads itself.

A "T port" valve might be an option so that either the heads or the pump is connected to the seacock

Like this from ASAP supplies

405502.jpg
 
Where to connect T?

Thanks for responses so far.
Norman - where did you T off the for your valve - directly at the through hull or further up the intake hose?
Vic - The T-port valve looks promising - would you attach it directly to the through hull or place it in-line with the attached hose? Also it looks like ASAP only do these in stainless. How do you think this would be corrosion wise connected directly to a bronze (or possibly gunmetal/DZT, difficult to tell) threaded through hull fitting.
Thanks again in advance.
 
rowanloh said:
Thanks for responses so far.
Norman - where did you T off the for your valve - directly at the through hull or further up the intake hose?
Vic - The T-port valve looks promising - would you attach it directly to the through hull or place it in-line with the attached hose? Also it looks like ASAP only do these in stainless. How do you think this would be corrosion wise connected directly to a bronze (or possibly gunmetal/DZT, difficult to tell) threaded through hull fitting.
Thanks again in advance.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, I can't provide a photo of the set-up at the moment. My seacocks are all Marelon ball valves, (a form of plastic), so I cut out a section of the half-inch hose, about 6" away from the seacock, and introduced a plastic ½" Tee, (made up with hose tails) in its place. On the free branch of the Tee, fitted with a thread, I installed a ball valve, and led hose from there to the deckwash pump. The pump is at the same level, or maybe slightly below the level of the seacock. The only reason for the ball valve on the supply to the pump, is to be able to isolate the pump, while still being able to use the loo.

Personally, I would not fit an "either / or" valve, as this would mean going under the floorboards to operate it every time you want to use the pump. Our normal sailing involves anchoring, and we use the deckwash pump almost every time, to wash the mud off the anchor and deck.
 
NormanS said:
I'm sorry, I can't provide a photo of the set-up at the moment. My seacocks are all Marelon ball valves, (a form of plastic), so I cut out a section of the half-inch hose, about 6" away from the seacock, and introduced a plastic ½" Tee, (made up with hose tails) in its place. On the free branch of the Tee, fitted with a thread, I installed a ball valve, and led hose from there to the deckwash pump. The pump is at the same level, or maybe slightly below the level of the seacock. The only reason for the ball valve on the supply to the pump, is to be able to isolate the pump, while still being able to use the loo.

Personally, I would not fit an "either / or" valve, as this would mean going under the floorboards to operate it every time you want to use the pump. Our normal sailing involves anchoring, and we use the deckwash pump almost every time, to wash the mud off the anchor and deck.
Click to expand...

I did this by fitting a Marelon Y-valve (diverting to either toilet or deckwash) on the bulkhead next to the toilet, and put the deckwash pump power switch next to it. I also fitted a water filter, which has a removable cap to allow cleaning, on the 'output' branch to the deckwash on the same bulkhead.This means they're all quite accessible.

Like NormanS, we almost always anchor so the deckwash gets a lot of use, so convenience is important.
 
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JimC said:
Why is this? I should have thought it was safer to have the joints a bit higher than the waterline. Is it to help the priming of the deck wash pump?
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I know it's done with probably the majority of engine cooling systems, but having suction lines going up, and then down again, is not good engineering practice. It can lead to problems with priming.

Provided that any internal water systems are maintained, and protected by good, and accessible sea cocks, they should present no danger.

rudolph_hart, your system sounds neat, but I am quite happy to have water fed to both toilet and deckwash at the same time. It's never posed any problem.
 
pheran said:
A question for those who have installed a deck wash pump this way - what sort of connector did you use for the hose connection at deck level please?
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Jabsco do a deck fitting (looks a bit like a water or fuel filler) with an insert which is pushed and twisted to lock. Cost was about £40 IIRC. It takes Hozelock standard thread -e.g male connector for 'snap on' hose. I bought a self coiling hose plus a pistol trigger unit from the garden centre.

Hose, pistol & insert all stow in a length of plastic guttering with end caps mounted out of the way in the cockpit locker.
 
NormanS said:
rudolph_hart, your system sounds neat, but I am quite happy to have water fed to both toilet and deckwash at the same time. It's never posed any problem.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that bit of info. I fitted the Y-valve because I feared the flow rate of the ParMax 4 deckwash pump might cause air to be sucked through from the toilet flush. If you've had no problems I should be safe to remove it (one less thing to remember each time I use the system!)
 
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