Suzy DF 2.5- a caution.

Gordonmc

Gordonmc

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I bought a new Suzuki 2.5 for the tender a few months ago. As it was a 4-stroke I have been punctilious about how the motor has been transported and stored.
I have an outboard horse at home for storeage upright and always put the engine tiller-side down in the boot of the car.
So far so good.
However, after leaving the engine in the boot for a couple of days (abandoned trip) the engine was locked solid.
I took the plug out and ejected a good half-cupful of oil out of the cylinder.
It started fine, although a bit smokey at first until the oil burned off.
I guess the moral of the story is not to leave the engine on its side for any length of time, even tiller-down.
Great little engine. Easy starting (normally) and the neutral gear is a godsend.
 
BlueChip said:
Are you sure that tiller side down is the right way to store this engine?
It looks very much like my Honda which is stored tiller side up
Click to expand...

DF 2.5 is tiller side down.

df25transport.jpg
 
Gordonmc said:
I bought a new Suzuki 2.5 for the tender a few months ago. As it was a 4-stroke I have been punctilious about how the motor has been transported and stored.
I have an outboard horse at home for storeage upright and always put the engine tiller-side down in the boot of the car.
So far so good.
However, after leaving the engine in the boot for a couple of days (abandoned trip) the engine was locked solid.
I took the plug out and ejected a good half-cupful of oil out of the cylinder.
It started fine, although a bit smokey at first until the oil burned off.
I guess the moral of the story is not to leave the engine on its side for any length of time, even tiller-down.
Great little engine. Easy starting (normally) and the neutral gear is a godsend.
Click to expand...

Id be surprised if leaving the motor lying on the correct side for prolonged periods is a problem. More likely due to being driven around for a couple of days. Ideally transport up right or drain the engine oil. If neither possible/practicable drive sedately. None of the usual cornering on two wheels, accelerating like sh 1 t flying off a chromed shovel or harsh braking. Imagine SWMBO or GF is sitting in the passenger seat with a bowl of engine oil on her lap!
 
Good engine - mine started first time last week after standing for two years.

Only runs with the choke out slightly though, every time its pushed in it stalls - shame as I was going to sell it (surplus to requirements!) so don't really want to pay for a service.
 
John 32i said:
Good engine - mine started first time last week after standing for two years.

Only runs with the choke out slightly though, every time its pushed in it stalls - shame as I was going to sell it (surplus to requirements!) so don't really want to pay for a service.
Click to expand...

Four strokes have a very small slow running jet which gets bunged up easily with gum. It is absolutely vital that you ignore the old ways of running the outboard dry at the end of the daily usage. This just coats the slow running jet, the early symptoms being that you need the choke on partially.

My first 3 years of use when I followed the running dry principle meant that I would strip the carb down 2 or 3 times a year and apply copious quantities of carb cleaner to keep it running. Since getting it running again in 2102, I now never run it dry, but just shut off the fuel switch and cap. When I stop using it (say for a week) I just drain the carb bowl with the screw point provided, and since then have not had a days problem.

Running the carb dry coates the slow running jet with a little more gum every time - and it does not take long to gunk up.
 
Chris_Robb said:
Four strokes have a very small slow running jet which gets bunged up easily with gum. It is absolutely vital that you ignore the old ways of running the outboard dry at the end of the daily usage. This just coats the slow running jet, the early symptoms being that you need the choke on partially.

My first 3 years of use when I followed the running dry principle meant that I would strip the carb down 2 or 3 times a year and apply copious quantities of carb cleaner to keep it running. Since getting it running again in 2102, I now never run it dry, but just shut off the fuel switch and cap. When I stop using it (say for a week) I just drain the carb bowl with the screw point provided, and since then have not had a days problem.

Running the carb dry coates the slow running jet with a little more gum every time - and it does not take long to gunk up.
Click to expand...

It's not running the card dry that's the Problem. It's thinking that you're running the carbon dry when you're not actually doing that. No harm in "running it dry" if you actually use the car drain afterwards.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
Can't edit post on tablet but spellchecker has never heard of the word "carb"!

Richard
Click to expand...

My spellchecker lets me use the word carb

Editing text is not easy but I can do it on this tablet. I think.

I can also edit posts.

But with no ad blocker using these forums is an uphill struggle. At leasr I assume thats what cuses the difficulty.
 
Last edited:
VicS said:
My spellchecker lets me use the word carb

Editing text is not easy but I can do it on this tablet. I think.

I can also edit posts.

But with no ad blocker using these forums is an uphill struggle. At leasr I assume thats what cuses the difficulty.
Click to expand...

It has got carb now once I'd saved it.

Every time I've tried to edit a post on the tablet it's deleted the whole thing.

I'll add this post then type another one and try and edit it.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
Every time I've tried to edit a post on the tablet it's deleted the whole thing.

Richard
Click to expand...

I have had that happen , but not quite sure what caused it.

I seldom use the tablet .......I prefer a big screen and a proper keyboard
 
I suspect that driving around with the engine in the boot of the car, moving about a bit, has caused the oil to migrate into the cylinder. I am glad that you have highlighted this issue, because I bought a suzuki df2.5 last month and I too tend to put in the boot and drive around; next time I will take some precautions. Remarkable that it starts literally on the first pull and its so light; also goes on the plane with 15 stones weight. Naturally, the older it get, I would expect problems with the carb and reduction in torque.
 
VicS said:
I have had that happen , but not quite sure what caused it.

I seldom use the tablet .......I prefer a big screen and a proper keyboard
Click to expand...

I don't think it's possible to edit in mobile mode which I use with my phone and Samsung tablet. Just deletes if I try. Carb
 
CAPTAIN FANTASTIC said:
I suspect that driving around with the engine in the boot of the car, moving about a bit, has caused the oil to migrate into the cylinder. I am glad that you have highlighted this issue, because I bought a suzuki df2.5 last month and I too tend to put in the boot and drive around; next time I will take some precautions. Remarkable that it starts literally on the first pull and its so light; also goes on the plane with 15 stones weight. Naturally, the older it get, I would expect problems with the carb and reduction in torque.
Click to expand...

I've had this hydraulic lock a few times with my DF2.5 and suspect it only occurs if the oil level is a tad too high. The oil level indicator is next to useless as tiny changes in angle cause it to read differently e.g. just rotating what you think is a perfectly upright outboard through 180 degrees. I've taken just to putting in the specified quantity of oil at the start of each season and ignoring the level readout and I can't recall having the lock-up problem since. Yesterday it was carried for 3 hours lying flat rattling around in a trailer, powerhead forwards, and getting airbourne frequently over bumps and was fine on arrival.
 
RichardS said:
It's not running the card dry that's the Problem. It's thinking that you're running the carbon dry when you're not actually doing that. No harm in "running it dry" if you actually use the car drain afterwards.

Richard
Click to expand...

Richard - I disagree - there is harm in "running it Dry".

The action of running the fuel in the float chamber so low that the jets dry out, result in depositing the gum on their surface each time, leading to blockage - quite rapidly. It is therefore important NOT to run them "dry" but stop them normally and then drain the carb bowl.
 
I had exactly the same thing happen when storing my Tohatsu sail drive for the first time, handle down as per the manual, the cylinder filled with oil and locked. I've since put a cushion under the handle each time, it only raises it an extra 2", but I haven't had the problem again since.
 
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