Suzuki DT8 Outboard

[nevster]

I have just gained one of these outboard as an auxillary with my new (secondhand) boat. Coming out from the engine compartment is a grey twin core cable which has the ends just left bare. The previous owner could shed no light on the purpose of this cable. The only thing I can think is that its used for battery charging ( although not sure engine this size would have that luxury). I am taking engine down to boat this weekend to run up and see if any voltage is produced but any ideas/info in the meantime would be greatfully recieved.

Regards

Mark

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[philip_stevens]

Doing a search, and finding this site <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bestofbikes.no/marine/dt_8_6.htm>http://www.bestofbikes.no/marine/dt_8_6.htm</A> indicates that there is a generator on your motor. It is in Norwegian, so perhaps one of our Scandinavian colleagues could translate further.

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Philip

 

[nevster]

Thanks for info. Will now definitley check for o/p on weekend.

Regards

Mark

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[ridgy]

I used to have a DT6.

The wire produces 12V output that according to my manual was a lighting coil. I tried connecting it to the battery once in the hope of getting some charge:

If the engine wasn't running then sparks would fly, as if it was just a loop of wire.

If the engine was running then when connected the engine sounded sick and the wires got very hot!

So it probably was a lighting coil...

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[graham]

I had a Yamaha 8 with a lighting coil.This produced an AC current so had to be connected to a rectifier for battery charging purposes.

It gave about 5 amps charging which was usefull.

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[porth]

Hi, not a difficult translation! Generator 12V and 80W....
Need any other help drop me a line.

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[tknowles]

Mark

I have a DT 9.9 (shares the same manual) - assuming you have a manual starter model, it'll be fitted with a lighting coil (output 12v, 30W/80W) as standard) - your wires. The output of 12V 30W can be used as a navigation lamp by connecting a 24V 15W bulb directly, bypassing a battery. Also, 12V 80W is an output available for charging a battery with the use of a rectifier available as an extra fit option inside the motor cowelling.

For coastal cruising I would suggest that you go for the rectifier (domestic battery charging option) most probably available for your your motor, and supplement it with a 10 W solar panel or a wind charger if you have space. Lighting coil I don't think is worth bothering with.

Have a word with your local Suzuki dealer and assess the costs.

Tony

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[andyball]

used to have one of those. Sounds like the lighting/charging coil.

If suzuki prices are frightening you can use a maplin (or others) bridge rectifier to allow battery charging £2.50 last I checked.If a small battery, you'll still need to keep an eye on the voltage if no regulator is fitted. Mine would get over 16V with fully charged 130AH & same output.

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[graham]

When I charged with a charging coil and rectifier I trashed 2 new VHFs before I realised how high the voltage could get.

After embarrasing discussions with the chandler over the warranty for the VHFs I started switching off all instruments whilst charging.I am sure an electrical wizard could get over the problem.

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[Jersey83]

Mark

I have a DT 9.9 (shares the same manual) - assuming you have a manual starter model, it'll be fitted with a lighting coil (output 12v, 30W/80W) as standard) - your wires. The output of 12V 30W can be used as a navigation lamp by connecting a 24V 15W bulb directly, bypassing a battery. Also, 12V 80W is an output available for charging a battery with the use of a rectifier available as an extra fit option inside the motor cowelling.

For coastal cruising I would suggest that you go for the rectifier (domestic battery charging option) most probably available for your your motor, and supplement it with a 10 W solar panel or a wind charger if you have space. Lighting coil I don't think is worth bothering with.

Have a word with your local Suzuki dealer and assess the costs.

Tony

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Hi there I've been watching this thread as have come into ownership of a DT15 it is fitted with a lighting coil and a rectifier came with the engine tho not fitted... I was wondering if you can offer some advice as to what connects to what... many thanx

 

[VicS]

Hi there I've been watching this thread as have come into ownership of a DT15 it is fitted with a lighting coil and a rectifier came with the engine tho not fitted... I was wondering if you can offer some advice as to what connects to what... many thanx

You have been watching for a long while then, the thread is over 6 years old! I know patience is a virtue but that's ridiculous!

Can you give some more information on the engine. Year or serial number.. just to be sure I am looking at the right things although they don't change much.

Do I understand that the coil is fitted but the rectifier is not.

Two output wires from the coil ?.

Four wires on the rectifier ??
If two match the colours from the coil then they connect. One wire coloured that might indicate that it is the DC + output ( red?) or perhaps with a different connector.
One wire with a ring terminal ... probably the negative to be grounded somewhere convenient.

I'd check out the rectifier with a multimeter set to the diode test range before connecting it myself though!

Some models (later ones) have a box that houses some of the electrical stuff. There should be a place in there for the rectifier to fit.

Serial number ????

Can you test the rectifier or do you need guidance.

 

[Jersey83]

Tis true but hey... I'm very patient and not been able to do much hence the time...

The Engine is a DT15 about 1985 (ish) no documentation on engine and only a partial serial. It's manual start with a fitted lighting coil. I know that the engines didn't change much from 83 till 88. The rectifier is not fitted and was in a sealed box. The previous owner had it ordered for this exact engine so I know it should be good. The rectifier has 4 wires: Red, White, Yellow/Grey Stripe, and Black with ring. On the engine I have 3 Wires coming out of the insulation as shown in the pictures attached. none of the connections match tho I put this down to the rectifier being an modern equivalent of original.

Attached are photos of the engine block, wires and the rectifier. Hope you can advise...
Many thanx

 

[VicS]

My guess is that
The black wire with the ring terminal is the DC negative ,

The red wire is the DC positive and should be connected to the plain red in the motor wiring.

The other two are the AC input and should be connected to the yellow and yellow/red wires

( it's that yellow/red I'm not happy about. It seems an odd colour choice)

But check things out first.

On the motor check that there is a low resistance between the yellow and yellow/red and that they are insulated from every thing else. You may also be able to confirm that they disappear into the magneto below the flywheel.

Check that the red wire is the wire connecting to the battery positive. I'd expect this connection to be made at the starter motor solenoid on an electric start engine.

Now I think it would be wise to also check the rectifier connections. (although I'd be pretty confident about these)

Connect a digital multimeter on the "diode test" setting, or an analogue meter on a resistance range, to the yellow/grey wire and the black wire. Note whether you get a reading or not. Now move the connection from the black wire to the red wire. If you had a reading before you should now not have a reading, or vice versa
Now swap the meter leads over and repeat. You should have a reading now where you previously did not and no reading where you previously had a reading.

Now repeat the whole process from the white wire to the red and to the black. You should get the same results

(In the above "no reading" means infinite resistance )

If all that checks out I think you can safely connect it up and try it out.

Be sure not to ever connect the battery the wrong way round or your rectifier will be destroyed in an instant and do not disconnect the battery while the engine is running.

All the above must be accepted as at your own risk.

Id put an in-line fuse in the positive connection to the rectifier I think unless there is already one on the motor.

It might be possible to detemine the year from a part serial number or from THIS TABLE

 

[VicS]

I found a data sheet for the rectifier.

confirms that red and black are the DC output and the yellow and white are the AC input so don't bother with all the checking of the rectifier in the above post.

just need to be certain about the motor connections

 

[Jersey83]

Thanks so much... sorry for the delayed reply been having computer issues... I was getting pretty muddled with the testing lol just need to work out which is positive Ac and Negative AC on rectifier then can connect... so many thanks

 

[Bru]

DT8 Manual

Spooky this thread being revived right now - just spent the last hour hooking up the DT8 on our new boat on a test stand and running it up in a tub of water to see if it works OK (it does, started 4th pull, well happy!)

Did anybody ever find a manual? Waste of bl**dy time searching on the 'net - I just keep ending up on the same rubbish sites trying to flog me things I don't need or, worse, trying to get me to click on popup boxes that'll no doubt install summat nasty on my laptop

Cheers
Bru

 

[Jersey83]

Hey...

I never did manage to find a manual but did find this site for the micro-fiche and found it very usefull... this one is for the DT8http://store.brownspoint.com/dt8.asp hope this helps...

 

[Bru]

I had to shell out some pennies for it but I finally tracked down a downloadable PDF of the manual for this (and all the other Suzi outboards of a similar vintage)

Anyone wants a copy, PM me with your email address

Bru

 

[Jersey83]

I found a data sheet for the rectifier.

confirms that red and black are the DC output and the yellow and white are the AC input so don't bother with all the checking of the rectifier in the above post.

just need to be certain about the motor connections

Hi again just been having a thought am i going to need a regulator for the voltage? if so what will work without costing the earth?
Thanks again...

 

[VicS]

Hi again just been having a thought am i going to need a regulator for the voltage? if so what will work without costing the earth?
Thanks again...

Small outboards usually have a relatively low output charging coil. 5 or 6 amps max or something like that. They are not usually fitted with regulators.
Larger engines esp those with power tilt and trim systems are likely to have larger charging coils and then to have regulators, possibly combined with the rectifier possibly even water cooled.

I'd suggest you run it without a regulator initially . You will probably find no problems, esp if you have a good sized battery but if you run for long periods at high revs you may find you need to consider a regulator.