Suzuki dt5 neutral gear

[alecB]

I reported last year on a problem with my 1983 suzuki dt5 2 stroke which would pop out of gear under load. I replaced the indent ball and cleaned up the parts in the top fitting at the handle. (figure 8 C-3 in Brownspoint parts) That now works well, the engine starts and runs great but I'm back with a problem of holding neutral when selected. I can get forward + neutral or reverse+ neutral depending how I adjust the connector but it won't go forward + neutral + reverse.

The replaced parts at the clutch lever were checked and are fine. The lever will move to each position freely and stay in position as long as the lower unit isn't connected. As I know the top end at the clutch lever is correct, so the fault I presume lies in the lower leg

I first tried adjusting the position of the connector (part 14/15) with the lower unit attached, to try and get neutral working but it didn't happen for me, I could get it to do forward or reverse depending on where I positioned the connector, so I dropped the lower leg and manually moved the shift rod up and down. I reconnected top and bottom with the gear and gear lever both in forward, or both in reverse but it didn't help.

Separated from the top end the gears clicks firmly into forward or reverse as selected by pulling up or down on the shifting rod. However it will only select forward or reverse....I cannot get it to stay in a middle position (neutral) that will allow the prop to turn in both directions.....the prop will turn forward, or reverse, not turn free. If it could stay in neutral I could re-assemble with the gear lever in neutral as well.
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So any advice on either repair or positioning is welcomed and appreciated as it's driving me crazy.

 

[VicS]

There appears to be no positive positioning of the shift mechanism in neutral at the bottom end. It is going to have to be assembled either in forward or reverse ... the question is which. Id try forward to begin with I think.

The positioning of the upper and lower shift rods relative to each other in the clamp is probably going to be very critical.

 

[alecB]

Sorry for the delay in replying VicS, I understand what you are saying and will try the forward as first choice at the weekend and report back.

One bit of advice if you are able:
does the neutral position of the lower unit (when detached) usually have a firm locking position the way forward and reverse does? I mean by that, can you actually feel the position hold the way F+R does, or is the neutral a more vague arrangement because it isn't (I presume) meshing the gears?

I'm also not sure that the window in the leg will allow tightening the connector in anything except neutral, though I'll share that outcome later as well. Thanks again.

 

[Daverw]

I had a Dt5 until recently, the gear leaver indexed in all three positions, when I serviced it the clamp in the down leg was really critical. It would only tighten when in neutral in the window, but I found the knack was to leave slightly loose so it would slip a little and then move to f & r before putting in N to tighten. Took a few attempts to get I right but not too hard.

 

[alecB]

Had to wait till this week to give Daverw's suggestion a go......took a while, but then hit the sweet spot and all was well. Darn thing now works as though it has always gone into gear properly. On my dt5 it is next to impossible to tighten the connector in anything but neutral as the screw/bolt rises or falls just beyond the edge of the window so you can't locate a screwdriver on it enough to turn and tighten.
Thanks for your help guys, appreciated